Forgive me if I've put this in the wrong place or made the title incorrectly.

I have a 1996 Honda Civic EX sedan. It has a y7 block with a y8 intake manifold. I got it this way. When I bought it, it had a misfire. I was like okay, no biggie, new plugs wires and maybe even a dizzy. Welp, new dizzy, plugs and wires and the misfire is still there. When I got the car it didnt have any oil leaks, or so I thought.

Now it has tons of them, valve cover gasket, and who knows what else. The car feel sluggish to say the least. When I'm in 3rd gear, going up a slight incline it acts as if its struggling. I push the pedal a little harder, and instead of that smooth how HP acceleration you'd expect from such a motor, I get next to nothing. As the RPMs go up, I can feel the power jerk into place. That's the best way to put it. I don't know how else to say it.

I feel as if 1.5k to 4k I dont have nothin. Then when 4k hits which is when I usually shift, the power jerks in. Meanwhile it's been doing it all along 2k-3.5k but just slightly. But when 4k hits, it hits like it should I believe.

At this point, I don't know what to do. I've been thinking about bringing it to a local mechanic and have him "diagnose it". I'm thinking the timing may be off by a little bit.
oh, and another thing. The valve cover gasket leaks, so its letting oil into cyl 1 spark plug tube. I think common sense would tell me that that's causing a misfire, bit I'm not quite sure.

Another thing is, I have the throttle cable set preeeetty high because if I don't the car will hover at about 100rpm and try to die when I come to a stop. It still does it sometimes. With it being set this high the idle rpms on avg are about 1
5k. But sometimes it likes to sit at 3k and I have to rev it for it to die down to about 2k.

I should also mention that I dont have the egr valve (fuel pressure regulator?) Hose hooked up to the intake because whenever i did the car would basicslly die. I should also mention that I have a vacuum hose that is basically collapsed and I don't know where it leads to because it goes down through my intake manifold down behind the motor.

Please no judgement, just kinda give me you guys opinions on about what could be going wrong besides the obvious. And if said obvious vacuume hose could be the culprit well please let me know.

 

There is a lot here, but among the first things you have to do is clean your EGR passages and valve and reconnect it. I doubt the slight oil leak in the tube is causing the misfire. Nonetheless get the kit to replace the spark plug tube gaskets and replace all four at once.
Also, compression tests (wet and dry)
Also, any CEL codes?
Last, re: power... we drive 90s Civics... they slow, even if fun.
EDIT: the y7 block does not have EGR... what did you disconnect?

 

How do I clean my passage ways, and where are they located? I could easily acquire another hose. And no light but it throws misfire codes and o2 sensor codes last time I checked

 

Is this a 5 speed or Auto?
So there is currently no codes?
Did you clear them or did they go away?
Post up what 02 sensor codes you have.
What style header do you have? the Y7 header? it has the cat integrated in the manifold. If so I have seen many times people plugging in the wrong O2 sensor plug, basically switching bank1 and bank2. This sets off several O2 sensor codes as well as a code for a bad cat, swapping the plugs should clear these codes soon as you re start the car. They are in the same general location and are commonly put in the wrong plug.

Start with pulling the spark plugs and or replacing them with fresh NGK plugs they are pretty cheap. Replace the VC gasket and spark plug gaskets, the auto zones kits suck but they are affordable.

If you pull off the VC and spark plugs this is a good time to check the mechanical timing to see if the timing belt is not off! If its set to spec move on.

It sounds like you have a IACV issue which is why you need to keep the throttle open which causes a high idle but this is your solution because the engine dies when coming to a stop. You need to verify if the IACV is plugged in.

Start with those and get the engine running and let it warm up fully, after you need to check the ignition timing its very easy grab a cheap $20 harbor freight timing gun and check and set the timing, search how to set the timing its very easy. make sure you jump the ECU.

After the timing is set and they are no more codes check the compression and if its good or in a fair range move on.

I would recommend researching on the Y8 manifold swap and see if you have everything connected properly I suspect they didn't do the IACV connection properly and or swap back in a Y7 manifold, you can find them pretty cheap and convert it back to a Y7, you will get better MPG as well.

 

Y8 or Y7 head?

P2E or P2P ECU?

Post the actual CEL codes.

 

Y7 block, Y8 intake but can you confirm which head is on it? (Y8 will have a VTEC solenoid near the distributor).

 

Make sure it's using the p2p Ecu and if it is make sure the person who did the swap actually put in the 240cc injectors from the y8 to replace the 190cc injectors from the y7.