Ok guys I'm looking for some help as to what could be causing this. Built motor: rods, high comp pistons. Just took the head off to do port and polished head, new Ferrera valve guides (put in by a reputable machine shop), new Ferrera valves,New Brian Crower springs and retainers. It also has blox lmas I put in about a year ago. Stock cams for now but I have stage 3s to put in once I get it running right.

I cannot figure out why it's ticking so much!
*Valve adjustment done, to crowers spec and to OEM spec, not a big difference in sound
*Made sure all bolts are tight, can't find anything that's rattling or anything
*Changed Cam gears and belt is tight
*Changed VTEC solenoid for a different one
*Tried the valve lash 0.001 tighter and it seemed to get a little better, but still bad
*Compression is 200 across, 190 on cyl #2
Used a stethoscope and it seems to be loudest on cyl 1
i can hear the sound resonating in the bottom end, but it is much louder in the top end on the right side of the motor. A lot of people locally are saying spun bearing but I don't hear the sound loud enough in the bottom end. Please help it's almost race season I just need it running right!

first video is first start with no exhaust, after that it's all full exhaust
https://youtu.be/M4ZALfXK1xs

 

Make sure you're getting oil to the head. It makes a similar noise BTW...

 

Yes when I cranked it over with the VC off I could see oil getting all over the cams, and when I pull the oil cap when it's running it's spitting oil out. So Definitely lots of oil pressure

 

how old is the engine oil? Perhaps a different weight...

 

Did a fresh oil change before I started it, and the block was sitting with oil in it while the head was off. I'm running Lucas hot rod and muscle 10-30 and never had issues before. I'm gonna start pulling the pan since I have the day off, maybe find some answers there

 

Some white gunk in the pan, oil looked fine though and no metal shavings

 

Can't find anything else to be the problem, is this side to side play in the rods normal? No up and down movement on the crank or rods everything seems to be in order

 

Subscribed. I also have a ticking noise coming from the valve cover on cold start but then gets quiet after warmed up.

Ive already adjusted valve 3 times, intake at .006 and exhaust at .007.

Im thinking it’s mayb my rocker arms pads have worn out or something.

 

The side to side play on the rods should have been measure with a feeler gauge. Check the specs and see what you get.

 

Try new OEM LMA's,

Sometimes it takes a few trys to get the Valve lash correct, double check the valve lash especially after torqueing the 10mm nut.

 

yea I always double check after torquing them down and it’s a perfect drag on them.

replacing the lmas, does that require the rocker arms to be pulled out? I wouldn’t think so since they do lift up but is it enough lift to slide the lmas out?

 

Get that Blox crap out and use OEM LMAs see if you have the same issue.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...d-lma-2536305/

 

Ok I will measure the gap on the rods tomorrow. It's very minor and I'm assuming it's normal, but I don't remember if it had Play when I put it together.

I was thinking of trying a friend's supertech lmas to see if that fixes the issue, do you really think OEM is better than the spring style lma?

 

Get the updated version OEM,

https://www.tegiwaimports.com/genuin...b16a-b18c.html
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14820-PCB-3...EAAOSwfl1eHcYc

 

it’s oem never touched the lmas unless the previous owner did. But definitely will try that out. I have some lmas from my old gsr head that I know didn’t have no ticks on startups so I’ll swap them in.

 

Did you not state you put Blox LMA's in??

 

OK yea I thought you were the OP this is why its not good to thread jack lol

 

lol yea my bad I was tryin to get answers too. I thought maybe you knew I wasn’t the original owner of this thread. Hah

 

Interesting, I never knew there was an updated version! I'll try a friends lmas if I can first

Also do you think it's worth upgrading the oil pump while I have the pan off? It's a stock pump that I shimmed about a year ago. My oil psi is in the original video, and it seems to build kind of slow. I was planning to get an acl orbit since this is a racecar and sees a lot of abuse

 

Don't upgrade just replace it with a brand new ITR oil pump. You don't need to modify/ port your pump unless your making huge power! stock pumps are fine for even high HP boosted B series. Stick with a untouched pump the last thing you want is something going wrong with the oil pump. You can buy ported pumps from 4piston but that's the only pump I would run if I was to upgrade.

 

Is there anything bad about the acl pump? I don't wanna sacrifice reliability, but the acl pump is about $100 cheaper than oem😮

i measured the rod side to side play and it is about 0.011" and that is the same on all the rods

 

I have no experience with that brand.

 

get the denso pump if you got the $.
if not the cheapy performance electric from rockauto has
been ok for me the last year or so.
carter brand for about $50 gets a rockauto fave vote too
tho i never heard of it til now.

 

for the rods, you shouldn't be able to move them, side-to-side...especially by hand.

 

Yeah it's concerning for me but I put it back together and I still don't hear it from the bottom end, only top end. I'm going to try a friends lmas and see if that fixes it, if not I'll have to pull the head and see what's happening