Freshly built d16y7 with 75.5mm vitara and speedfactory rods first oil change after running / driving 45 min to 1hr for the past 6 days pics of oil in drain pan and out of filter on blue towel the oil looked somewhat metallic but nothing much in bottom of drain pan few pieces like wat was on filter

 

Did you break it in properly?

 

I'm more inclined to take a step further back and ask whether everything was measured properly.

 

Wat would be proper break in just let it idle until it got up to temp and topped off water then let it run the following two days then been driving it for past 3 to work staying under 3500rpm

 

Measured properly? Bottom end clearanced by machine shop rings properly gapped so wat you mean?

 

Details? Give the machine shop measurements of the final cylinder bores (all), the crankshaft measurements, and the bearing sizes installed. There's more, but this is a good place to start. It's clear that mistakes were made.

 

They did all the measuring prior to install i am confused by your assumption of mistakes everything was done to spec and everything properly machined went to the 75.5 to make sure to have a clean bore on the cylinder and the entire engine and valve train were disassembled and checked so i should have no metal at all even with everything being brand new and freshly machined?

 

Got paper work?

 

Got a $1600 receipt

 

It is sometimes normal to have small shavings or a lil bit of metallic shine in oil after a fresh build or machine shop work when I redid my head on b16a the guy said to Chang the oil after 300 miles and then at 500 to get that stuff out I was worried as well I saw it but after the 4 the oil change no more metallic shine or shavings hope that somewhat helps you especially if your car is running good

 

Paying $1600 for the rebuild tells you nothing about the work quality unless an unbiased person performed all of the micrometer measurements before the engine was reassembled.

 

I this your first oil change since you started the new engine? I’m a little old school on mine. I’ll do A lot of revving and a good heat cycle. Then dump the oil. Do maybe 30 miles then dump it again.

if this is your first since the engine has been ran I can see it having some debris and metallic in it. Hopefully it should be ok for you.

 

Week number 2 still seeing metal i dk may drop the pan if i do ao just pull the rod and main and see wat bearings look like?

 

looks like POOR installation, either by you and/or the machine shop.

$1600 to bore the block and install the piston & rods and crank??

 

Eh, I've heard worst.

 

I think the engine might be just settling in still give it some time then change oil again especially if the engine is running good when I rebuilt my head I had metal and my car was running good too about 4-5 oil changes hope this helps u

 

I dk gonna pull the pan and look at bearings I guess it's been 2 weeks of driving 45min to hr daily and still has metal just wanna be safe not sorry but compression from 140 to 150 and not smoking would lead me to believe bearings not rings? Yes?

 

on a fresh rebuild, compression should be much higher....like 190 across the board.

 

Ok so I need advice on wat to do to find out what I need to pull apart? I dnt have the friends and reliable sources of info that I did when I built my.first engine the machine shop stays so busy they act like I am a bother I know some of y'all are very knowledgeable about these things just sux I put a lot of effort into this and now it's not right still

 

that compression does sound low. I’m wondering if the machine shop did a not so great job. How much metal are you still getting out of it? Just as much as your first time around?

 

This isn't the right way to break in a new engine/piston rings.

It's best to let the car get up to temperature, but then start driving while focusing on letting the car explore most of the RPM band with the exception of WOT and redline. You don't want to "baby" the engine and keep it isolated in the low RPMs, because this will prevent the rings from seating properly in the bore - It's important to vary the RPM and speed on the engine. Engine braking to slow the car down during the break in period is also great for the rings, because that vacuum effect from no throttle and letting the engine slow itself down will again help with seating.

Change oil after the first drive on a fresh block, then again at 50 miles, 200 miles, 500 miles, and 1000. After 1000 miles you can begin experimenting with some WOT high RPM pulls, however I'd avoid bouncing off the limiter, and make sure to give the engine some casual driving "cool off time" after the intense pulls. After 3000 miles change oil per usual intervals and drive normally, and this is also when you can switch to a fully synthetic oil (I'd always recommend finding an oil with good zinc content).

Just what I've found to be the best process.

​​​​​​​Take the car and the receipt back to the shop, show them the pictures. Ask what they think.

 

Yea guess i be tearing it all back down ****** sux thanks

 

there are a few things I think the machine shop did/didn't do:
1. They didn't thoroughly clean the block prior to installing the pistons and rods (metal shavings)
2. They didn't "clock" the piston rings correctly (low compression readings)
3. They knew they fucked up and didn't want to take accountability of their incompetent work

I would demand a partial refund and do the work yourself.

 

Got some videos or how to forum I can use for when I tear it back down like clocking the rings and the proper gaps and all . . . everything I find varies and want this to be my last go around with this and seems you know wats up d series looking to boost in the future is the plan so aNy info appreciated thanks to all who responded all have helped me make my decision
wat brand rings do yall use?

 

Find a Factory service manual for you car. Hondahookup.com may be able to help you.

And read this article regarding break in: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power