ok code 67 says that the cat converter is not operating at 100% (below threshold) ok I get that. the car has dang near 400k on it. My question is how does the computer know this since the car has only one O2 sensor that lives BEFORE the cat converter? is there another sensor or something that Im missing?
Thanks
Steve
1995 civic lx 1.5 all stock

 

You are likely misinterpreting the blinking CEL code. Might it actually be codes 6 and 7?

 

OP, how about posting a video of your check engine light blinking through the codes a couple times please ?

 

1995 civic lx 5spd 1.5
So, every so often the car would sputter at idle. no check engine light, but when I ran the codes it came up with a 6(ect) and 7(tps).. the car ran fine otherwise but the sputter at idle was driving me nuts. I change the tps (it had the goofy smooth head screws holding in place, what a pain), put it all back together and that is when the gates of hell opened up. Now the car only runs on 3 cylinders(low compression on #1), its overheating (gauge pegged and the smell) and wont idle below 1000 and I found that #2 and 3 spark plug holes were filled with oil.
Im thinking that I messed up when I did some head work on it 2k miles ago because I have replaced the thermostat once already because it was overheating. Im thinking now that the overheating is due to a bad install on the head gasket and the thermostat was good, but no coolant in the engine. Then working on the tps showed all my screw ups
Jeez Louisee
Just venting here, its not my daily driver but it has 390k on the odometer and I would love to see 500k just for the heck of it
sumbitck
Steve

 

You should update your previous thread.

 

95 LX should be a D15B7 engine. When you did the "head work" what head gasket did you use? Or did you not remove the head from the engine?

 

sorry, I forgot I posted this. (beer night ) I figured out its code 6 and code 7. started another thread about it. thanks for the replies.

 

ok how did 2 threads get combined into one? im lost here

 

anyway, I used an amazon head gasket (im sure its a cheapy) It had a chipped exhaust valve at #4, I just lapped a new valve in and did NO machine work to the head. I figured that since all the other cylinders had 145psi that they would be fine. I was wrong I suppose. Im thinking since this has so many miles on it, why not just re-ring it with a rebuilt head. It still has the cross hatching on the cylinder walls

 

Did you calibrate the tps? Or did you just bolt it in and plug in the connector and go?

 

I got it as close to the .45v at closed as it would let me. .47v

 

I merged your threads and edited the title to reflect your new found understanding that it's code 6 and 7.

 

Check that the throttle stop screw hasn't been turned up by someone who didn't know what they were doing.. The throttle plate should just touch the sides of the throttle body at idle. The stop screw is to keep it from slamming shut. This is adjusted once at the factory and should never be touched in the field. Air for idling comes through the IACV and the air bleed screw, not the throttle plate. Once the throttle plate is closing fully like it should you should be able to adjust the TPS to 0.4 - 0.45 volts.

Check for blown head gasket by starting the engine cold with the radiator cap off and revving it. If a bunch of bubbles constantly come out or coolant actually blows out there is a leak. There should be very little action in the radiator until the engine has warmed up.

 

the car has only been worked on by a honda dealer in Kansas City Mo. I bought the car from my brother in law for 50$ and he is the original owner So no on anyone messing with the throttle stop. As far as the head gasket, #1 has only 70psi. the others have 145-150psi. When you start the car with the t-stat off it blows coolant all over the garage.
SO the question of the day, completely rebuild engine, or just put a REBUILT head on it. Since oil pressure is still good (no oil light when running) and no odd noises Im leaning just toward the head

 

leakdown test

 

its definitely the head gasket. Start the engine for 30 seconds and the radiator builds pressure to the point of HISSSSSSSSing when the cap is removed

 

so felpro mls gasket, rebuilt head for Cylinder head international. car is running fine. 140-150psi on all four and the plugs look good after 200 miles, Im happy
thanks for the help