Ok so I bought a 98 ex. The car starts and runs but has a p0335 code and is in limp mode. The guy i bought the car from told me he changed almost every sensor except crank position sensor. I believe if the crank position sensor is bad the tachometer wont work and it does. I did not check the mechanical timing but did check the timing and it was good. When you clear the code, the engine bogs down and sometimes dies. Either way the code comes right back and its already in limp mode. Bad ecu or ?

 

Unplug distributor connector.

Measure resistance between the two CKP sensor pins in the distributor-side connector. What is the Ohm reading?

 

The 98 Civic tachometer signal comes from the igniter unit not the CKP sensor.

 

Nothing

 

P0335 HONDA Possible Causes

• Faulty crankshaft position sensor
• Crankshaft position sensor harness is open or shorted
• Crankshaft position sensor circuit poor electrical connection
• Signal plate may be damage
• Starter motor may be faulty
• Starting system circuit
• Dead or weak battery

 

After looking at it, the crank position sensor is also new.
I also tried bypassing it to see If maybe it was faulty and still the same thing. I checked the wiring for the crank position sensor from the sensor to the distributor and from the plug to the ecu plug and that's all good.

 

Provide information that suggests that your "all good" conclusion is correct.

 

Time to start looking at other causes. hows the battery? hows the starter? Sometimes it the weird oddball part that is the problem.

 

Sorry maybe I shouldn't say all good. What I meant by all good was that there were no broken or cut wires between the sensor and plug at the distributor, sensor plug to ecu or distributor to ecu. When I measure the resistance at the ckp sensor pins on the distributor plug, what should it be?

Starter is probably original but the battery is new.
Just for ***** and giggles, my son is going to go to a buddies house tomorrow and plug the ecu into his car and see if it does the same to his car. If that is not the problem, I guess I'll go to the starter next.

 

The only thing that steers me away from the starter is that you clear the code and the car will bog and try to die and sometimes will but if it dont, the cel comes right back on and it goes back to a normal idle. Not to sound stupid but what is the signal plate?

 

350-700 Ohms

 

I'll check what the reading is today. The ecu was fine in another car soooooo. Moving on.

 

If it's the 2 and 6 pin in the plug, I'm getting nothing

 

Yes, pins 2 and 6. Were the wires at these pins Blue and White?

If you did the test correctly, the distributor is bad.

 

I set the volt meter on ohms and probed 2 with one and 6 with the other and nothing. I also did another test I found online to check for power to the crankshaft sensor and only one of the wires had power but it was only .4 volts
I'm so lost. Lol

 

An unplugged distributor should have ZERO voltage. I think you made your measurements on the wire harness side rather than the distributor side of the connector. And also verify the correct wire colors.

 

I had the distributor plugged in, went to crankshaft sensor plug on drivers side and unplugged the sensor and tested the harness side for power to the sensor. At the crankshaft sensor plug, there was only .4 volts with the ignition in the on position. On the site I was on it said there should be 12v.
there is only 3 wires there, its supposed to be a power, ground and signal.

 

This^ is NOT the CKP sensor. It is the CKF sensor.

Test the CKP sensor from the unplugged distributor connector as I mentioned earlier.

 

so what was the outcome of this

not to hijack the post .. I have the same ish issue.

2000 civic EX (its white - very important)
same issue = CEL is on. clear the code it bogs and comes right back on. I have changed the following
timing belt and all the jazz with it
sensor
harmonic balancer
crank cog thingy that the sensor reads from
wire harness to the ECU
different ECU (out of a 2000 civic that was silver - why color is important)
also did the ffs CKF bypass trick, thinking that would do something and legit no change

the silver car ran with no CEL no issues .. just rotted to hell .. only resort is swapping the dizzy (doing that tonight after work ) and swapping the motor .. I have not changed the starter but will also do that before the motor

I have the 2 cars next to each other in the driveway so swapping parts left and right is not a big deal

any help would be awesome
k thanks bye

 

Hey accordlxrj did you happen to find your problem source? I have same symptoms including .4 volts on the crankshaft fluctuation sensor.
everytime I think I have the answer I'm proven wrong so far... Never been beat permanently so I still intend to win.
not the ckf, fuses, wires, ignition switch, main relay, or ECM.....
going to go test ohms on CKP but distributor is less than year old.

If either of you found your culprit I could use that tip.
Thank you

 

Following up. I just tested the ohm at distributor connector.
pin 2 and 6 760 ohms. (Tested distributor side but looked at female side to confirm blue and white wire.)

On harness side have 12v on pin 10 and only .4 volts on pin 1?? Is this normal or should it be 12v?

Also tested to ground harness side pins 6, 7, 8 (sensor grounds) all show 160 ohms. Should the resistance be that high on the ground side?
Any guesses?