92 civic cranks but no start
92 civic sedan ex crank no start. I was driving to work and hit a red light. When it turned green I pressed the gas and noticed the car was not on. I went to turn it back on and now it wont start only cranks. I drove the car an hour prior and no issues . I have a check engine light for speed sensor. Nothing else. I can hear the fuel pump priming. I do have some kind of leak not sure if itse engine oil, tranny oil or even maybe power steering fluid idk but that's the only issue I know about. The oil level at the dipstick is at the first hole in the dipstick. So I don't think its low enough to cause the engine to not turn over. Any help would be much appreciated. I just wanna narrow down the problem. Also it has 146xxx miles
I just got the car 3 weeks ago. I have not done anything to it yet and I'm not sure when the last time the previous owner did anything. I got it from a tow yard. And what is the easiest way to check for spark? I'm a bit of a noob. But I can figure it out with some guidance. I remember someone telling me to stick a screwdriver in the cylinder hole or something like that to check spark?
No don’t stick anything in the cylinder hole lol. I believe your referring to when you have the spark plug out of the cylinder with the plug wires connected and then hold a screwdriver close to the spark plug end and then crank it to see if it sparks.
but here is another way you can check
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...blems-2919450/
but here is another way you can check
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...blems-2919450/
No don’t stick anything in the cylinder hole lol. I believe your referring to when you have the spark plug out of the cylinder with the plug wires connected and then hold a screwdriver close to the spark plug end and then crank it to see if it sparks.
but here is another way you can check
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...blems-2919450/
but here is another way you can check
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...blems-2919450/
so I did what it said on the link you gave me, and I was not getting any spark coming from the plug when cranking it.
Do a tune up change out your cap, rotor, spark plugs and plug wires.
if it still doesn’t start it could be your icm or the igniter that’s bad. If you know how to use a meter this would be a good time to use it and pin point where it’s not sparking at.
also check your distributor wires and make sure they didn’t come loose
if it still doesn’t start it could be your icm or the igniter that’s bad. If you know how to use a meter this would be a good time to use it and pin point where it’s not sparking at.
also check your distributor wires and make sure they didn’t come loose
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Do a tune up change out your cap, rotor, spark plugs and plug wires.
if it still doesn’t start it could be your icm or the igniter that’s bad. If you know how to use a meter this would be a good time to use it and pin point where it’s not sparking at.
also check your distributor wires and make sure they didn’t come loose
if it still doesn’t start it could be your icm or the igniter that’s bad. If you know how to use a meter this would be a good time to use it and pin point where it’s not sparking at.
also check your distributor wires and make sure they didn’t come loose
Okay I will start with that. I can't do anything until pay day. So I will try to narrow down where I'm not getting spark with a multimeter. Where should I start?
That thread I posted should cover it. If you have a Hayes or helms manual that should it too.
if your not getting spark from the spark plugs, check if your getting spark from your plug wires by checking without the spark plug connected to the plug wires.
If no spark then move on to the cap with none of the wires connected tot he distributor.
If nothing then take the distributor cap off and check the icm
if nothing then your igniter, using 20k ohms on your multimeter and follow the spec for the Hayes/helms manual to see if your within spec.
if your not getting spark from the spark plugs, check if your getting spark from your plug wires by checking without the spark plug connected to the plug wires.
If no spark then move on to the cap with none of the wires connected tot he distributor.
If nothing then take the distributor cap off and check the icm
if nothing then your igniter, using 20k ohms on your multimeter and follow the spec for the Hayes/helms manual to see if your within spec.
That thread I posted should cover it. If you have a Hayes or helms manual that should it too.
if your not getting spark from the spark plugs, check if your getting spark from your plug wires by checking without the spark plug connected to the plug wires.
If no spark then move on to the cap with none of the wires connected tot he distributor.
If nothing then take the distributor cap off and check the icm
if nothing then your igniter, using 20k ohms on your multimeter and follow the spec for the Hayes/helms manual to see if your within spec.
if your not getting spark from the spark plugs, check if your getting spark from your plug wires by checking without the spark plug connected to the plug wires.
If no spark then move on to the cap with none of the wires connected tot he distributor.
If nothing then take the distributor cap off and check the icm
if nothing then your igniter, using 20k ohms on your multimeter and follow the spec for the Hayes/helms manual to see if your within spec.
Sorry for the late reply I had to get paid frpm work to do anything further. But i just replaced my whole distributor ,and replaced the alternator . Still no spark. What else could it be?
So I ended up getting a wild hair. Idk why I didnt check before but I took the timing belt cover off and the belt was snapped. So me and my buddy are replacing the belt right now. Will update when we are done
Well it started!! Runs great just like before! I appreciate the help guys! It was the belt this whole time. Dtiny notice it cause the timing belt cover was on and I didnt think to check that. But hey oh well as long as it's running now. Again. Thanks for the help y'all! Have a good one !
Hey guys back again lol. So the alternator I had someone put on was the wrong one. The pulley that is on the alternator he put on was too small and snapped the belt while driving. So I had someone else put one on that was from the exact same engine and a new belt. But now I'm hearing a small noise when accelerating. Best way I can explain the noise is like if a chain is dragging on the ground while driving. That's what it sounds like. Also it doesnt pick up like it was. Yesterday when we got it started it accelerated fine. Now after putting the other alternator and new belt it feels like something is stopping it from moving as fast as it should. Kinda feels like when you have the break on while driving and you can feel It not going as it should. Any ideas on what this dude did to make it feel and sound like that? I'm about done with so called mobile mechanics. Ready to go to a shop but thought I'd see if anyone knew or experienced this before and know the solution.
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