Hello Forum,

I have a 90 DX hatch (OBD0) and I have swapped in a B18B1 (OBD1). I have high impedance injectors (resistor box deleted). I have converted the harness to OBD1 per the attached document. I'm running a P75 ECU, P75 intake, and P75 head. I have the OBD1 dizzy as well. All components are new to me. I do not know of any issues that may be pre existing. I can't figure out why it wont start and stay running. If I crack the throttle at all it stalls the motor.
I have 40 psi in the fuel rail... FP is working as it should
I have 160lb+/- 2lb cold compression across all 4 cylinders. (Readings taken before I got it to the point it would start)
I have a good strong blue/white spark in all 4 cylinders.

I'm stuck at this point. I don't know why it wont run right. I need ideas ASAP!

 

Anybody? I'm in the garage today and I really need the help!!!

 

Are you getting any check engine lights when you turn the car on? If so, which codes?

You have pressure at the rail - check to see if your injectors are firing. Or see if it will start on starting fluid.

Double check your wiring.

Check your mechanical timing.

Check that the spark plug wires are connected in the correct order/position at the distributor.

 

DaX

I get no CEL when the ignition is turned on. I unplugged some sensors to get a code to make sure I would but when it's all hooked up correctly, I get no CEL.

I have pressure at the rail as you say. I have managed a rough idol and I can hear the injectors firing. I haven't tried the starter fluid but I assume if it starts with; I may have an injector problem. I'll test that out next.

Double and triple checked the injector wiring against the doc. I attached. I'm good there.

Mechanical timing seems to be spot on.

Spark plug wires are connected for a firing order of 1, 3, 4, 2.

it seems almost as if I have no spark advance. It's hard to start but I can get a limping rough idol when cold. Once it warms up, it dies. The OBD1 dizzy is wired per the instructions I've attached as well (double and triple checked). I created a sub harness which carries the cylinder position sensor wires and the injector wires for 2 and 4. All wires test out for continuity and are plugged into the correct ECU plugs.

I really don't know what else I should considering at this point. Is it possible I got a duffer dizzy? It's brand new... not a rebuilt. I had a look inside and all the gaping appears to be good. I don't believe there are any voltage regulating circuits in the dizzy, Correct me if I'm wrong - That's a pretty straight forward system I thought. Constant voltages over a pulse system triggered by a magnetic field.

 

By new distributor, I'm assuming aftermarket. What brand? I've had bad luck with the $50 distributors, and I've heard of some being bad right out of the box. I'm running Duralast Gold distributors now because I can't swing the cost for OEM, and the Duralast Gold distributors have a lifetime warranty.

Try the starting fluid, and if you have access to a known good distributor, try swapping that over.