1997 Honda Accord, 4 cylinder

This morning while driving in the snow I suddenly lost my ABS, intermittent wipers, rear defrost, and all dash gauges (Including POST check lights when turning ignition to 'On') - Is there a specific fuse I should check before I start thinking it's the wiring? The car still runs and drives fine ...

 

Check fuse 8 in the foot well fuse box. Check fuse 15 under the hood.

 

All fuses are fine, is there a specific ground I should check? I checked all the grounds I know of under the hood, but unsure if I missed any

 

UPDATE:

I checked all fuses and grounds, all are fine ...

Not Working:
All dash lights and gauges (Except directionals and battery light, which work)
ABS
Rear defroster
Intermittent wipers (Fluid works, as does normal wiper usage)
Dash clock (Radio DOES work)
Power windows
Power moonroof

I've had several other people in other forums suggest either the alternator, or ignition - The alternator was replaced about 4 months ago, so I am pretty sure that is not the issue - Is there a way I can check the ignition to see if that IS the issue?

 

Brother was driving the '97 EX(2.2/AT) and he is a habitual kick panel kicker.
Under dash fuse box is right next to the foot rest.
A few months back he had the same problem, engine ran fine but lost the dash/windows/etc.
Checked under dash Fuse #1 and he stated it was good. Told him to replace the fuse, as I didn't know how he was checking it.
Replaced fuse, all the components worked again. The fuse was damaged in a way that it would not make when installed, but checked out good when removed.

IIRC the signal/hazard circuit has a backup or auxillary circuit which allows them to function even if the 'hazard/signal' under dash fuse is blown.
Battery lamp is run through the alternator and does not share the same circuit feed as the other prove out lamps.
Check #6 underdash fuse as well, this is for the wipers.
IIRC the above fuses, if blown, affects how the underdash ICU functions. Which makes things get a bit funky.
And the way vehicles are wired even if a given circuits fuse is blown, that circuit may still retain power as it is back fed through a different circuit.

Not sure how you are checking your fuses.
Get a known good known voltmeter, turn it to continuity and check the leads before doing any testing. Should ring out good.
Only real way to verify if a fuse is working is to check the ends with a voltmeter while it is in situ. Turn key to II(ON) and you should see battery voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you are reading battery voltage across the fuse itself(while plugged in) then the fuse is blown as you are seeing a difference of potential. Meaning one side has power the other side doesn't.
One terminal of the meter should be to a good body ground, the other should be used to check both sides of the fuse. There should be battery power when the ignition is turned to II(ON). And using the voltmeter across both terminals should show 0V as you are measuring the same spot, electrically. If there is a difference across a fuse then the fuse is bust.

Pulling a fuse and using a small fuse continuity checker(like those supplied in fuse kits) doesn't always work. Also if using the continuity checker on an in situ fuse, if there is power available on one side of the terminal the checker may indicate a good fuse, when in reality it is not the fuse checkers own battery that is lighting the green light but power from the car battery that is powering the checker light and giving a false positive.

Always best to use a proper voltmeter and verify power is available across the fuse. Once you find a fuse that has voltage on one terminal but not the other, you have found your open(blown) fuse.

And it doesn't hurt to simply replace the fuse, if temporarily, to verify the circuit is functional/non-functional.
If you do this, install it so the amperage # is upside down. This makes it easier to know which fuse you have inspected without having to count/label/go blind looking for the correct terminus.

 

Once it gets light out I will re-check all the fuses in the panel with my tester (I am also a 'panel kicker', so this could actually be the issue!) - Thank you for giving me some hope for a simple fix!

 

Rechecked fuses with multimeter, and #1 WAS blown - Replaced it, and when I turned the car 'On' everything worked, but as soon as I started the car it blew out again, is there a ground in that area I may have missed?

 

UPDATE:

After replacing #1 fuse 4 times, it FINALLY stopped blowing out - I have dash lights, tach, etc, but no speedometer, which gave me the idea to check the VSS - There was a large chunk of ice sitting on top of the VSS, and was dripping into the plug - I sprayed some WD-40 in there to get the water out, slapped some electrical grease on it, and problem is solved! If anyone ends up having these same symptoms, check your VSS along with the #1 fuse!