I have a 92 Civic dx that I swapped the motor in so I lost all my freon during the swap. Just wondering what all I need to convert to r134a. I know I will need to vacuum the old oil out and buy the conversion kit with the adapters but do I need to replace the dryer or anything? Thanks

 

It would be most beneficial to gather all the bits from a 94/95 civic as Honda converted to r-134a. The r12 soft lines allow the freon to permeate out through the rubber. You could even then acquire a newer integra or 99/00 Si evap and add cabin filter. Deschlong wrote an amazing DIY on this very subject.

 

You could do R12a, too (not R12, it's R12a ... ie., Duracool, Red Tek, etc.). Then you don't need to change the lines. The evap with filter is compatible with the old R12 lines. Also, many 98-00 Civics had the evap with slot for filter, not just the 99-00 Si/SiR.

 

If you change over to R134a, remove the compressor, hold it inverted, and rotate by hand to drain out all the remaining mineral oil before replacing it with PAG 46 oil.

 

Sorry guys, I forgot I even made this thread. Thanks for the input. So if I go r134a I need to replace the lines as well as draining and replacing the oil? I already have several cans of r134a so that’s the route I’m planning.

 

Do not buy the kit.

You need the following:
Refrigeration o-ring assortment. Any time you take a connection apart, don't re-use the 25 year old o-ring. You don't have to pre-emptively replace every one only the stuff you take apart. DO pre-emptively replace the o-rings on both ends of the high pressure hose from the compressor to the condenser. That section runs hot and will harden the rubber.
4 oz oil (PAG 46 or Ester 100). Remove the compressor from the car and make arrangements to spin it (counterclockwise) on the bench at a medium speed with an electric drill. Tilt the compressor to different angles and spin out as much old oil as you can. Just before putting it back on the car, put 3 oz of your new R134a compatible oil into the compressor.
New receiver drier. You can do static leak tests with the old one, but just before the final evacuate and charge put a new one on. Put 1 oz of oil into the new drier.
Steel conversion fittings. You should still be able to buy these at NAPA. Do not use the aluminum ones like come in the kit. Remove the original valve cores before putting the fitting on.

 

Thanks man, this was the response I was looking for. So after I drain oil and have it all back together I do still need to vacuum the system before charging it correct? For moisture and such?

 

Your question suggests you really need to visit this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-home-1665946/

There's a lot of chances to **** up when doing A/C, my suggestion is read, read, read, then re-read all the DIYs possible.

 

Also I suggest while the system is empty pull the evaporator box out of the car and clean all the leaves and junk out of the air side of the core and the ductwork.

If you don't have a vacuum pump, refrigerant scale, etc. you can put everything together then take the car to someone to evacuate and charge it. Charge should be the same amount (by weight) of R-134a that the sticker says to use of R-12. These cars convert well for R-134a the parts are identical to the factory R-134a versions that came later.