Suppers. So I'm considering a JDM swap on my 01 accord Ex. The stock motor's over 250k leaks oil from multiple points and is due for a new timing belt water pump ect. & time is a factor.
So my question is: What parts off the stock motor need to go on the JDM to run correctly? So far I've gathered I'll need the wiring harness, obd2(ecu) intake & exhaust. If this is wrong or more is required plz elaborate any help is much appreciated. Ty

 

4 cylinder vehicle? What engine do you intend to swap to?

 

If you are planning on swapping to a JDM engine merely because of the TB/WP and oil leak issues, I've got some bad news for you.

The last of the F23As assembly line engines were built back in '02. That was 17 years ago. Even if the engine is low mileage, you are still going to have to replace the belts as they need to be timed out. It's not just a mileage limit there is also an age limit. If it has been five years or more, time to replace those belts.

Oil seals will probably need to be replaced as well. Not because they are blown, but after sitting for so long there may not be any oil on the seal or the area where it rides, this would burn the seal up on startup, so you can either try to lubricate the seals in situ, fat chance, or have to replace them anyway.

Sensors between USDM and JDM are usually different. Which require removal from the original engine and installed on the JDM engine.

Intake manifolds can be ever so slightly different, or lack certain components/ports that are found on the USDM engines.

Exhaust manifolds seem to be the same.

Engine brackets seem to be ever so slightly different. I know on my F22B(1) the brackets were just different enough to not work with the USDM components. Which added an unforeseen step in installing the replacement engine.

Distributor is probably going to be different. and you will need to reuse your existing unit.
Mechanically and wire count the distributor from the JDM 'B' engine was the same as my 'B1' but rather than two plugs on the USDM it was a single plug on the JDM. Which makes more sense to me, but a difference that makes it a PITA to install if you want to use it.

After all is said in done, you will have a bunch of time/parts into the 'new' engine that could easily have been spent on the 'old' engine.
I would recommend that if your current engine is in need of a timing belt and has a few oil leaks, before you jump the gun for a JDM engine, you should verify the condition of our current engine.
Verify the valves are properly adjusted, this is often ignored and can lead to other issues that get blamed on other items.
Warm up the engine, shut it off, pull the plugs, open the throttle and disable the fuel pump. Install a compression gauge and verify the compression is within service limits.
If so, and the engine itself is not making any mechanical death noises like actual rod knock or has low oil pressure, spend the money on new oil seals and gaskets to fix the oil leaks, and a proper TB/WP kit.

For $500 you can have all the tools and parts needed to freshen up the F23 in your car.
Follow the articles in the FAQ section to clean out the EGR passage, adjust the valves, clean the throttle body, and to install the TB/WP.

If your engine is toast, the JDM F23A is the same as the F23A1. Don't know if there was an F23A4 or A5 equivalent in JDM.

 

pretty much the same on JDM J30 you need to swap the intake manifold, all sensors , the left side engine mount passengers, the oil filter assembly, power steering , just about everything that is connected. When they take these out they do it fast. They cut the engine and everything connected right out of the car. Then stack them in shipping containers five high. To send to USA. The other option is to purchase a totally remanufactured J30a1. It will cost you 3600. However is practically a brand new engine. Most of the connections on the accord coupe V6 can be swapped from your existing engine if of course it’s a V6. When doing so you do with the same risk your components may be bad. I did it and thought since most of the parts were new off my engine I’d be ok. Not the case. I spent a lot of time finding out what was causing me this head ache. Was a simple map sensor. When you swapping don’t forget your current engine and it’s parts May be a curse that will follow you to the swap.