Help with a 1994 Honda Accord with an f20b swap
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Help with a 1994 Honda Accord with an f20b swap
So I've got this 94 Accord coupe and it's got a few issues, currently the main ones are. Surging idle (apparently goes away if bypassing iac) and it refuses to rev passed 5500 rpm. The guy I took it to wired up the VTEC switch and installed the iac and said he had it idling good. Not really sure what to try. As of now the only part I need to install is a VSS.
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Re: Help with a 1994 Honda Accord with an f20b swap
MM Gruppe B
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: 94577/Gaillimh
Re: Help with a 1994 Honda Accord with an f20b swap
Verify the connections are good, nothing loose/busted.
Verify your grounds are clean and tight, intake manifold harness ground, engine mount bonding jumper, transmission ground and the battery to body ground on the radiator support.
With the engine off, open the bleeder valve for the coolant on the back of the thermostat housing. Make sure your heater valve is open(full hot) and verify there are no air bubbles. I usually use a clear vinyl tube to prevent mess.
Tachometers can go bad or have a bad connection. Verify it is reading correctly. My own tach is off and although my engine can rev freely the tach only registers a max of 5Krpm even when I hit the rev limiter. If the engine make rev limiter sounds then it is probably the tach that is off, you can usually verify this by the tach reading lower than what its actual operation rpm is. Crusing on the freeway if your tach is barely cracking 2Krpm at 65MPH then the tach is most likely off.
IAC, verify the connections and ground are good. Backprobe the connection with a meter and monitor output.
If you haven't checked the FITV you should, sometimes these get a bit sloppy and do not fully close off the air bypass whch causes a surging as the valve floats open/close. IACV may be trying to compensate for a higher than anticipated idle and ends up fluctuating and over compensate/overshoot the desired setting/output.
Verify your grounds are clean and tight, intake manifold harness ground, engine mount bonding jumper, transmission ground and the battery to body ground on the radiator support.
With the engine off, open the bleeder valve for the coolant on the back of the thermostat housing. Make sure your heater valve is open(full hot) and verify there are no air bubbles. I usually use a clear vinyl tube to prevent mess.
Tachometers can go bad or have a bad connection. Verify it is reading correctly. My own tach is off and although my engine can rev freely the tach only registers a max of 5Krpm even when I hit the rev limiter. If the engine make rev limiter sounds then it is probably the tach that is off, you can usually verify this by the tach reading lower than what its actual operation rpm is. Crusing on the freeway if your tach is barely cracking 2Krpm at 65MPH then the tach is most likely off.
IAC, verify the connections and ground are good. Backprobe the connection with a meter and monitor output.
If you haven't checked the FITV you should, sometimes these get a bit sloppy and do not fully close off the air bypass whch causes a surging as the valve floats open/close. IACV may be trying to compensate for a higher than anticipated idle and ends up fluctuating and over compensate/overshoot the desired setting/output.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Re: Help with a 1994 Honda Accord with an f20b swap
Verify the connections are good, nothing loose/busted.
Verify your grounds are clean and tight, intake manifold harness ground, engine mount bonding jumper, transmission ground and the battery to body ground on the radiator support.
With the engine off, open the bleeder valve for the coolant on the back of the thermostat housing. Make sure your heater valve is open(full hot) and verify there are no air bubbles. I usually use a clear vinyl tube to prevent mess.
Tachometers can go bad or have a bad connection. Verify it is reading correctly. My own tach is off and although my engine can rev freely the tach only registers a max of 5Krpm even when I hit the rev limiter. If the engine make rev limiter sounds then it is probably the tach that is off, you can usually verify this by the tach reading lower than what its actual operation rpm is. Crusing on the freeway if your tach is barely cracking 2Krpm at 65MPH then the tach is most likely off.
IAC, verify the connections and ground are good. Backprobe the connection with a meter and monitor output.
If you haven't checked the FITV you should, sometimes these get a bit sloppy and do not fully close off the air bypass whch causes a surging as the valve floats open/close. IACV may be trying to compensate for a higher than anticipated idle and ends up fluctuating and over compensate/overshoot the desired setting/output.
Verify your grounds are clean and tight, intake manifold harness ground, engine mount bonding jumper, transmission ground and the battery to body ground on the radiator support.
With the engine off, open the bleeder valve for the coolant on the back of the thermostat housing. Make sure your heater valve is open(full hot) and verify there are no air bubbles. I usually use a clear vinyl tube to prevent mess.
Tachometers can go bad or have a bad connection. Verify it is reading correctly. My own tach is off and although my engine can rev freely the tach only registers a max of 5Krpm even when I hit the rev limiter. If the engine make rev limiter sounds then it is probably the tach that is off, you can usually verify this by the tach reading lower than what its actual operation rpm is. Crusing on the freeway if your tach is barely cracking 2Krpm at 65MPH then the tach is most likely off.
IAC, verify the connections and ground are good. Backprobe the connection with a meter and monitor output.
If you haven't checked the FITV you should, sometimes these get a bit sloppy and do not fully close off the air bypass whch causes a surging as the valve floats open/close. IACV may be trying to compensate for a higher than anticipated idle and ends up fluctuating and over compensate/overshoot the desired setting/output.
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Joined: Sep 2019
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From: Florida
Re: Help with a 1994 Honda Accord with an f20b swap
I just finished my 94 accord with a f20b swap and my issue was that I couldn't get the car to idle with my Hondata chipped p28. so I plugged in my stock f22b1 computer and let the car warm up to proper operating temperature and then switched the computer and all worked well. make sure your TPS in plugged in because that can cause the car to not rev.
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