So my positive battery cable is so corroded and shot she barely stays on. I don't have much extra length to easily solder on an extension to it.

Anybody have any tips on how to go about this so I can put on a better positive terminal?

I'm afraid if I cut the wire, I won't have enough extra to solder extra. There are 2 wires on this, one going to starter and alternator I think. I'm sure it's pretty corroded.

OR

Should I make new cables going from the starter and alternator to the battery and leave the old wire in the insulation? I might have to cut off the wire 4-5in away from the lugs and solder from there?

 

Option 3: Order a new OE charge harness for your application and replace the damaged one in the car.

 

Those are like $300-$600 last time I checked. I could possibly get something from the junkyard, but I think that's more trouble than it's worth

The problem is this is bundled as the entire wire harness for the engine.

 

Yeah, I was thinking that the charge harness was separate from the engine harness like those found in the '02-05 Civic Si or the '02-06 RSX. Looking closer online, it does appear that it is all one piece as you have described.

 

Yeah, I don't even want to attempt to replace just the charge cables cause it splits off and one goes into the fuse box, and is a custom looking 90 lug.

Think I'm going to just cut the lugs at the battery terminal as close as I can and crimp on new lugs. Might try to solder after the crimp if possible and go from there. Looks to be not too thick of wire. Maybe 8-12 gauge?

 

The heavy white wire says 10 on it. It is almost exactly the same size as the 8 gauge audio wire (crutchfield brand) I used as grounds under the hood. So the 10 may not be american wire gauge, or the crutchfield wire has some extra strands in there. I would go to a pull it yard and remove the stuff on their cars and see how it all comes apart. The ground side (negative battery terminal wire) is just a short piece that goes from the battery to the engine, and has a stop along the way at the inner fender. It's easy to replace all that (used a t-spec terminal) and the small ground above the radiator. For the Positive side I ran the factory white wires into a stinger terminal that also has a 4 gauge hook up location. It's worth noting the white wire from the alternator bolt goes to the ELD in the fuse box, across that, then on to the battery. You can't really tell unless you cut the protective covering off to see, as it looks like it goes to the battery like most cars do. The end attached to the alternator was a-ok on my car since it's under a rubber boot, but everything else was really corroded. Got stuff online from half price car audio, woofers etc, crutchfield, and sonic electronix.