I'm new to the forum so sorry if I didn't post this in the right place. I have a 1995 Honda Civic dx coupe with a 96 engine. The car still had the obd1 setup and I went to read the codes and accidentally used the paper clip trick on the scanner port with 3 prongs instead of the 2 prong port and it ended up sparking. Now the car won't start but the dash lights work fine. The car goes to start and barely cranks then just stops like it's a bad battery but the battery isn't that old. When I jump the car it starts no problem. When I jump the car the rpm gauge, radio, dash lights and headlights with all other electronics work intermittently and are very full when they do work. I don't know if this is a main relay issue, a computer issue, a battery or alternator issue or an electrical wiring issue which I hope isn't the case cause I just bought the car and I would have to scrap it.

 

Can u test the voltage on the battery? If it starts by jump starting than its most likely the battery. Have you tried putting a different battery in it to see what happens?
If the battery isn't that old than take it to where you bought it and have them test it and you should be able to replace it for free. If it was something more other than the battery than you couldn't start it with a jump either. Just don't do things if your not 💯 with what you're doing cause you could fry everything with one wrong move.

 

Thanks for the response! The battery is at 14 volts so it's good. I didn't get it checked anywhere like AutoZone though. I might go up there and have them check it. I also recently replaced the alternator so I don't think that's it either. I tested the main relay and link fuses and they are all good. The only thing I can think of at this point is some wiring but I'm not sure as I never owned a Honda before.

 

When you try to crank what's the volts than. It may show 14 but starting it may cause a huge strain on the battery and drop it low. Basically you could charge a dead battery and it could show charged but your cca could be low. If you can start it I would take the car to AutoZone and have them test the alt as well. That way you are clear on everything and not have to guess.

 

Ill take it up to AutoZone shortly and update the situation. Hopefully it is just something simple like the battery. Thanks for the help.

 

I have a sneaky suspicion it maybe your alternator also. But easy way to test that is start the car and take off the leads to the battery. If it shuts off the alt is bad.

 

I was to busy to take it yesterday so I'm going to be taking it up there this morning but I'll definitely do what you said before I take it up there cause I'm not sure that they're tests are accurate.

 

Took it to AutoZone and they said the battery and alternator are both weak but they said that it could possibly be something else because they are both newer. Kinda stuck at this point cause I don't feel like putting a bunch of money in it but I want to keep the car. It runs so well when I jump it but I can't jump it Everytime I turn it off.

 

Another thought is that the alternator went out 1st and everything relied on the battery to power your car.

 

That could be true. I think I'm just going to take it to my mechanic tomorrow and see what he says. I have a lifetime warranty on the alternator so im kinda hoping that's what it is. I bought a battery so I'm going to try and put that in soon. If that doesn't work I have a sucpicous that it's the wiring or computer. The wiring is all over the place cause the previous owner replaced the engine and computer and alternator and he wasn't experienced a bit so he may have messed something up

 

Is the battery under warranty? I would charge it fully than test it.

 

I would replace the alternator 1st and trickle charge the battery overnight.

 

I replaced the battery and it's turning on but it's taking a while to crank and the lights are still dull. It may be the alternator is getting weak? I'm going to take it to my mechanic tommorow cause the radiator fan is also not turning on unless I wire jump it to the battery but then it stays on so I need to figure out what that is as well.

 

with aall the electrical issues it doesn't sound good. If you have a u pull it place I would go there for the ecm but it's sounding like you may need one.

 

I have a pull a part near me I'm going to go there tommorow but I think I should take it to my mechanic first to make sure on what I need cause I don't want to have to put more money in it than I have to. I'm hoping to just put a jump switch in it to turn the radiator fan on and off as I'm just looking to keep it as a beater for a few winters

 

If you have a fully charged battery (say trickle charged overnight), and you can crank the engine and it will run... your issue is NOT the alternator. The fact that you have mentioned dull lighting would indicate that you have damaged either the ECU or some critical wiring somewhere in the car. You made a big boo-boo OP shorting the data connector instead of the service connector.

 

​​​​​​That's what I'm thinking. I'm not sure if it's worth it at this point besides maybe running some bootleg wiring? That's all I can think of but I'm going to be driving it in the Ohio winter so I don't want to end up stranded. I may just get another ecu from pull a part but it's probably not worth it. I bought it to do a bunch of stuff with but it's all rusty now too. I'm thinking it needs so much work I should junk it and buy a shell or something. I'll post an update as soon as I find out exactly what the problem is which will probably be around 3 tommorow.

 

Do not run bootleg wiring. Your mechanic should be able to diagnose it properly and proper repairs will not be complicated or expensive for someone who knows what they are doing.

The ECU has nothing to do with the starter cranking when you turn the key. If the charging system is not working it will start OK after charging the battery externally, but slowly run down. This is easily checked with a voltmeter. Do not disconnect the battery while running.

The system voltage could be OK but "dull" headlights will result from the common condition of the silver coating in the back of the headlight assembly degrading. The bulb still lights up but without the reflector effect it can't throw much light down the road. The only cure for this is to replace the headlights.

 

I'm taking it to my mechanic around 1 today. thankfully he knows all about this stuff so he should be able to fix it pretty easily. He has really good prices as well because he is a family friend so it shouldn't be too much of a deal I'm almost thinking that the radiator fan is just the switch or relay but now the car seems to start up fine after I prime the fuel pump three times it also runs well besides a small misfire but I think that's from the long tube headers and no tune.