I’m building/ rebuilding my first gsr going into my 95 civic. I’m looking to make 400 to 450 whp. This will not be a dd just a weekend toy. Looking for recommendations to help me reach my goal. My current parts list is:
81mm gsr block
stock head (besides light port and polish) will be doing valves, valve springs, and titanium retainers.
balanced and micro polished crank
VMS block guard
eagle rods with arp rod bolts
weisco 10:0:1 forged pistons
1000cc Bosch injectors
aem fuel rail with aem fpr
jg intake mani with 70mm throttle body
arp head studs
acl oil pump
acl race bearings
cometic top and bottom end gaskets
walbro 255 fuel pump
Solid motor mounts
vms lightweight crank pully
exedy stage 2 clutch with act 9 lb flywheel
tuning with demon v2 rtp on neptune
Think that’s about all for now. I still haven’t decided on turbo set up I want something that will spool fast but not choke out in high rpm either. Any ideas on what size to help me get to my power goal. Thanks in advance.

 

For the Turbo I always recommend to message GoAutoworks for there recommendations. They are very helpful and will help you choose the right kit for your goals.
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gostkit.html

 

i wouldnt do the block guard personally

 

x 2

 

I wouldn't do the block guard. Either run stock sleeves, or have the block CSS'd.
I would do an OEM oil pump, not the ACL one.
Depending on what fuel you use, you may want a larger fuel pump for some safety margin.
If the VMS crank pulley doesn't have a damper, stick with OEM.
Solid motor mounts are going to be harsh, but if it's a weekend toy, that may be acceptable.
You may want a heavier duty clutch. I don't know the torque rating of the Exedy Stage 2, though.
I second the "talk to Go-Autoworks" for turbo recommendation. Generally, smaller turbos spool fast but choke out on the high end. Bigger turbos spool slower but make more power on the top end. The key is to size the turbo appropriately for your power goals and type of driving you plan to be doing.

 

I’ve got a similar setup but went more for the track than the street, my car still drives great on the street and the power is very responsive and aggressive for a larger turbo. Only use the block guard if the motor got honed / bored with it in place, so if your using stock bore don’t use it. I use a VMS crank pulley myself, they just are not recommended for a car that gets drove daily since there is no harmonic balancing and it could wear on things over time. Use a JE Proseal head gasket and a good set of ARP head studs and go

 

The block guard I have had mixed feelings about . I have heard of them creating hot spots but have few other people I know running over 600 whp on stock sleeves with block guard on e85 and have had no problems. Figured it might be a little safer but I really don’t know. I want to run 93 just because it’s easier to obtain in my location. What other reasons should I not run a block guard? As for fuel pump would the 255 not push enough or just be close to maxing it out? What are the reasons behind oem oil pump over acl? The clutch actually came with engine and trans from previous owner and was brand new less than 500miles on it. I was hoping it would be strong enough for all I’m wanting. I don’t really plan on taking it to track and beating it just wanting something quick to do some highway pulls if I get the itch to. I don’t really care bout vibrations and harshness from motor mounts I kinda prefer the feel over soft ones. Sorry for any dumb questions I’m pretty much learning while I’m building. Not expecting it to last forever just not wanting to pop it soon as I build it.

 

Thanks I will keep that in mind. Are The cometic head gaskets prone to failure? I have always heard they were pretty decent thats the only reason I got one. In your opinion is it really worth the wear and tear for minimal gain from the crank pully. I honestly don’t care if I keep it oem , lightweight one just looked cooler lol.

 

Thanks I’m checking them out right now.

 

For a block guard to be effective it must be extremely tight fit, but that usually distorts the cylinders which is why a cylinder should be honed or bored afterwards usually. 600 on stock sleeves would be a time bomb! With or without a block guard. I personally sent my block to CNC werx for a CSS which is a real block guard, they covert the block to a closed deck block. Real CSS blocks have send hp number exceed 1100hp. CNC werx rates them to 700-800 on a B18c1 block

 

If the stock one is in good shape use it..... it’s better for the motor , mine usually only gets ran 10 seconds at a time.
ive heard mixed stories about cometic, I was told by The guys that did my CSS to use JE Proseal and also by my guys at Humble Performance which build a ton on high HP Honda’s

 

Maybe in the future after I get bored with 400 to 450(if I do) that may be my next step or just have it sleeved and build as more of a track car setup. As of now I have been out of turbo cars roughly 10 years and I can’t take it anymore lol. I needs da boost.The time-bomb part I totally agree with I don’t know how they haven’t blown them cause they thrash them every weekend. Breaks everything else on car but engine still runs strong haha.

 

CSS Block - $300 well spent
OEM Honda headgasket
JG Intake manifold - is this an Edelbrock Victor X ? If so, its overkill for 400 - 450whp. A Skunk2 Pro series or Performer X will be more suited to your setup
Go for a DW 340 fuel pump - more headroom than a 255. Make sure to do a fuel pump re-wire with relay and thick gauge wiring.

Go-Autoworks will hook you up with a suitable turbo kit. Don't go overkill on charge cooler size, piping diameter, and turbo manifold runner length.
He'll probably recommend a turbo in the 55 lb/min range, with a mini-ram style manifold.

 

I would look into running a walbro 450lph pump. You'll have more room in the future if you want to run a different fuel such as e85 if you choose too and still keep you 500hp goal within reach. The next limiting factor would be your 1000cc injectors IF you chose to go E85 down the road. And I second wiring in a 14v fuel pump relay.

 

I just installed Burton racing fuel pump harness! plug and play!


https://www.burton-racing.com/

 

Another option that's a bit less expensive..

 

From what I understand the jg is the previous version on the victor x they just changed the name. Good thing I already ordered the pro series skunk 2 manifold I figured the jg was gonna be too much. I got a good deal on it so I couldn’t pass it up. About what is the power limit I can achieve from the walbro 255 on 93? More than likely I will upgrade it in the future but want to at least see what I can get out of what I already have.

 

What exactly is the point of this? This is new to me...

 

Larger gauge wire and a relay to allow the fuel pump to draw the current it needs.

 

I know it well, also had one of those early JG-branded ones. A 255 will support anywhere between 500 and 600 engine horsepower dependent on fuel pressure (base fuel pressure plus boost pressure). The more boost you (need) to run, the less the fuel pump can flow. https://www.realstreetperformance.co...t-performance/

For your target of 450whp, you'll need to have around 520 hp worth of fuel flow (15% driveline loss). Assuming a base fuel pressure of 45 psi this would mean you will be limited to about 20 psi of boost to ensure a little safety margin for the pump. A 255 can work if you only plan on sticking to that power goal and 93 Octane. If you ever want to experiment with Ethanol blends on increase the power, the 255 will become a restriction.