Hello guys. New here. For starters I have a 1994 Honda Accord with an F22B2 engine and a 5 speed trans. I have pulled the engine and completely rebuilt it due to a blown head gasket. Reinstalled it and now having issues with it running as driving, never drove it before, bought it with a bad head gasket and started to change it. Ended up being apart for a while so I decided to pull it and rebuild it. Clutch is new and all engine mounts are new. Read in a different post those could cause a jerking issue. Don’t think those are the problem. I cleaned all port on the intake and egr valve. Don’t believe those are clogged. I swapped a complete throttle body with no fix. I pulled the the idle control valve and reseated the spring and cleaned it. No joy there. Just replaced the fuel pump with a new one, what a nightmare that was. No fix either. The car runs good except for the jerk when slowing down without throttle and or just slightly applying throttle. Also there is no smooth transition from idle to above idle. Very quick and jerky. Also she idling it does jump around revving up and down and sounds like it’s missing. Have a cheaper exhaust with a header on it. Just so you know the exhaust isn’t stock. Other thing I read was a bad wire to the tps could do it. Will try unhooking the tps tomorrow and drive it. See if it changes. Just trying to see what else could possibly be the issue with a newly rebuilt engine and most probably cause switched. Thanks for any help in advance.

 

Is it a steady state surging at a given rpm, or just an initial surge when opening the throttle?
How is the TB bore and butterfly? If the shaft is worn out then it may cause a large vacuum leak which would cause a surge when going from idle to open.
As for the EGR, did you clean out the EGR manifold itself? Sometimes it can pop off in one piece, remove the bottom plate and verify the upper EGR plenum/manifold chambers are clear.
Backprobe the TPS. Monitor voltage change, it should be smooth and linear.
Backprobe the MAP. Monitor voltage change with a vacuum gauge connected to the intake plenum. If the voltage radically changes it should correspond to vacuum changes on the gauge. If the MAP is having a voltage spike and the vacuum gauge shows no change. Then there may be an issue with the MAP sensor.
Verify your exhaust has no leaks and is not horribly constructed, some straight pipe systems can cause hell on engine running condition.
B2 O2S is mounted in the exhaust manifold. Some cheaper headers keep the O2S in the same spot but it is only monitoring a single cylinder, this can cause some strange mixture and drivability issues, especially on tip in.

If it is missing at idle, recheck your plug wires are correct order there are two different orders between B1 and B2, generic books don't always show the correct firing order for the distributor cap. A or A1 is #1 verify the plug wires are in the correct order on the cap.

Verify the plugs are properly gapped and installed, along with no oil in the spark plug tubes.
Verify the plug wires are properly mounted on the spark plugs. Cheaper wire sets don't properly seat on the spark plugs inside the tubes due to incorrect boot sizing. They tend to pop off and cause a misfire.
Verify the valves are properly adjusted. Too tight and it will cause a loss of compression and misfire.
Verify all your grounds and bonding cables are properly attached. There should be a ground to body pigtail off the negative battery cable, the engine wire harness has a ground that attaches to the 'boost valve' on the end of the intake manifold plenum, PS hose may make it hard to see, and the engine mount bonding jumper. It's a three ended cable. Heavy wire goes around engine mount to engine and body brackets, and smaller gauge wire goes to valve cover.

 

Hi thanks for the reply. It’s basically a studder while driving and while revving In neutral. It happens more when in lower gears just coming from a stop and while driving highway speeds there is no easy staying a constant speed. On all cars but this one when your cruising the throttle pedal is smooth to operate. Mine isn’t. It’s either idle position or when pushed ever so slightly the engine (I would say starts missing and jerking). Onced pushed down a bit more the engine jerks to life again and starts running ok until I take my foot off the throttle and we do it all over again. It’s very hard to discribe in words. Like I said before. The engine has been recently rebuilt. The intake and all parts to the engine were media blasted and then cleaned out. Making sure I got all the walnut shells out. The egr port and passages are clear and clean. Egr valve is clean. I am sure I have the plug wires in the correct order and plugs are gapped correctly and wires are tight. I have checked the codes and the only one I believe is coming up is the O2 sensor. And the engine light stays on constantly. Even when cleared it comes right back. I did notice the 7.5 amp fuse for the back up ecm was blown when I pulled it out. (Is my ecm fried). I installed a new fuse and it didn’t blow yet. I changed out the O2 sensor and it is still coming up.

I did have a generic exhaust on it. I pulled the headers off and installed the original exhaust manifold. I still have the cat deleted and the cheap straight pipe on it with a big can as the muffler. I thought I would help the engine with a less restrictive exhaust but now I see I didn’t. An original exhaust will be going back on it.
I am sure the timing is correct. I used a timing light on it and believe it is at 15 degrees. I am using the big service manual shops are supposed to use. Not the ones from Napa or advance. It fills up 2, 3 inch binders.

As for reading out the tps sensor and map sensor I haven’t yet. Don’t have a multimeter I trust at the moment. Tho I have switched the whole throttle body with sensor and it didn’t chnage anything. As well I rechecked all the ground and they are all hooked up.

I also have a bigger radiator on it as well which I will prob swap back to the original radiator and fans. It seems that these engine don’t like any add ons.

Thanks again.

 

Mad-Mike.

thank you so much for your help. I fixed the issue. Come to find out my intake gaskets were not sealing correctly. Not sure which one. I just tore the entire intake off and reinstalled after cleaning surfaces and viola all is good. Now just need to redo the valve seals since the damn thing wants to smoke after startup once sitting for a bit. Sucks because it’s a remanufactured head I bought for it 2 years ago. That’s what I think it is. Doesn’t smoke once it warms up.

Thanks again.