Fuse box is under the dash, battery is at the back of the car right by the passenger tail light. My battery light has not come on once! when I go in kpro it reads 11.20v on idle. The battery needed to be moved due to the hood stacks and catch can. the wire running from the fuse box to the is 8ga. The headlights are very dim too, just bought a new alternator from part source and it still reads 11.20 battery it's self is a magnapower one from part source and was new in may..

Important: the 2 wires that connect to the fuse box from the alt/battery were just hooked up randomly I couldn't see any indication of which went where.

 

 

you likely got the wires backwards. The one closest to the fuses/relays is the battery. Other one is to alternator.

 

Thank you, I will try that and see, i'm guessing mixing them could result in low voltage? the car has next to no draws as it's a gutted "635whp street car".

 

Update: New re-man(Remy) alternator was DOA, hooked up my scanner and ran a charge test "excessive ripple" plus it was only putting out 11.78V at idle/2k. Did switch the wires, didn't see any difference.

 

hmm...

 

with the engine off, the battery should read at last 12.3V. Once it's on, it should read at least 14.2V. If it's low like you're saying, the alternator is toasted.

 

try another, also what gauge wiring did you run?

 

Battery reads that, it's at 11.80v now and still says excessive ripple. I moved the battery back to where the stock RSX battery/fuse box leads will reach it. I'm beyond lost now. 2nd crap alt in a row? I unplugged everything I could think off even left my electric water pump and fans off/un plugged.


2nd toast one in a row? I put the battery back to where the stock rsx charge harness reaches it. yet i'm at 11.80v now



Important: The car is a Canadian car, thus DOES NOT have an ELD.

 

Are you running new wires though, alternator to engine bay fusebox, battery to starter, battery to engine bay fusebox?

 

just the stock oem ones, the special connectors on the fuse box make that nearly impossible, unless I were to snip them and then solder the pig tail with the special connector. They didn't appear to have any damage, they're from the rsx xharge harness when you de-loom it.

 

measure voltage at the alternator when the engine is running?

 

11.80V same as in kpro and same at the battery. took out all but 3 fuses and ran the car with next to zero load. was 11.60V now again even if I rev it to 4k still reads the same. pulled the wires and inspected them, ground the contact tabs even tho they looked fine. Only thing I can think of is the 2nd alternator in a row being bad, slightly better than the first one but still "bad"

 

Are these denso alts?
they last forever if you just replace the brush assembly.
just dig one out of a boneyard.
there's tons of cheap chinese crap out there now.
even moog and gates are now *****.
see this guide:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...civic-3114911/

 

https://www.hondata.com/tech-k20-swap-grounds

 

Also most relocations run a 0/2 awg wiring from the trunk to the front. I've read from another that its best to run a separate wire to the starter from the battery

 

Remy brand re-man "rebuilt in mexico" i've had junk ones before. but to have 2 bad back to back, seems fishy, no?



0ga is what i have now for the batt to fuse box and starter to batt they are separate and were before too due to length.

 

Just came here to say I want your Integra

 

Made 635/460 at just 7.1K last Tuesday.



Fixed the issue, surprised no one suggested fuse #15 in the under the dash fuse box, alternator control SP. car's running at 13.80-14V. which is what my tuner said i'd need so we could finish the tune. Hope this can help others who may stumble across it. No idea how i missed it or if i just didn't put that fuse back after i yanked them all way back. Used the legend sheet Wunfst sent me from an eariler thread a while back.

 

Hmm #15 is notorious for blowing but at least all you needed was to put it back in. What do you think it will make now with everything setup properly?

 

Next time I'm starting with 'did you check the fuses'

 

Fired the car up today and the voltage was ALL OVER the place 11.30 the 12 then 13.50 etc then down again tho didn't go back to 11.30 hovered between 13.60/13v any thoughts. stays the same more or less weather you rev it up or put load on it.

 

Check your connections, its suppose to stay above 13v at least.

 

Hovers around 13.80-14.10v at start up then as soon as i start driving it starts going to **** 12.30 back up to low 12s then all the way to 11.30 even. It's random there's no predicting the order it drops. Doesn't matter how much or how little load i put on it. We've been talking about bypassing the voltage regulator and having it put out max voltage at all times. This isn't really a legal street car so i'm aware of the risks: shorter life and having it just die all at once. In kpro i see the ELD is reading 4.53v I don't have an ELD as my car is Canadian, i'll be disabling it tomorrow in MISC of kpro

 

**SOLVED**


Took the car to OGX-Race here in Toronto Friday night. Spent close to 4-hrs running various tests, had it narrowed down to either the ALT it's self or the brand new Ktuned tucked harness! played with the plug that goes to the ALT a little more pulled the power wire out(black/yellow stripe), put it back and now we couldn't even get it to charge sometimes like it had been. Looked at a diagram and checked for 12v with key ON, first was the Intake cam sensor, 12v(ex is separate), next the VSS plug, 12v then the reverse lockout 12v. On the ktuned harness there is NO purge solenoid or "input"(something for the base rsx). These plugs should have 12v in the ON position too via the black/yellow wire. Then we checked the power wire for the ALT, nothing... we put 12v from the REV-lock plug to the power wire for the alt(removed the pin) and the car was charging just fine making 14.25v. We 100% confirmed there was a break INSIDE the brand new harness, between the REV-lock and the alt plug my guy is going to K-tuned this week to discuss how their brand new harness (that's a week old) was DOA. Maybe this will help others test instantly if it's the harness or ALT, we wrapped up at 12:30am can't thank Ryan(OGX) enough.


The reason it would be ok, then **** all of a sudden was due to the wire still being partially connected inside and when the car driving it would wiggle and go to ****. We simulated this by moving the wire around till it finally broke INSIDE the loom.