Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Fuse box is under the dash, battery is at the back of the car right by the passenger tail light. My battery light has not come on once! when I go in kpro it reads 11.20v on idle. The battery needed to be moved due to the hood stacks and catch can. the wire running from the fuse box to the is 8ga. The headlights are very dim too, just bought a new alternator from part source and it still reads 11.20 battery it's self is a magnapower one from part source and was new in may..
Important: the 2 wires that connect to the fuse box from the alt/battery were just hooked up randomly I couldn't see any indication of which went where. |
Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
you likely got the wires backwards. The one closest to the fuses/relays is the battery. Other one is to alternator.
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Originally Posted by NVturbo
(Post 52013537)
you likely got the wires backwards. The one closest to the fuses/relays is the battery. Other one is to alternator.
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Update: New re-man(Remy) alternator was DOA, hooked up my scanner and ran a charge test "excessive ripple" plus it was only putting out 11.78V at idle/2k. Did switch the wires, didn't see any difference.
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
hmm...
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
with the engine off, the battery should read at last 12.3V. Once it's on, it should read at least 14.2V. If it's low like you're saying, the alternator is toasted.
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Originally Posted by B_Swapped93
(Post 52013783)
Update: New re-man(Remy) alternator was DOA, hooked up my scanner and ran a charge test "excessive ripple" plus it was only putting out 11.78V at idle/2k. Did switch the wires, didn't see any difference.
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Originally Posted by NVturbo
(Post 52013915)
with the engine off, the battery should read at last 12.3V. Once it's on, it should read at least 14.2V. If it's low like you're saying, the alternator is toasted.
Originally Posted by tony_2018
(Post 52014691)
try another, also what gauge wiring did you run?
Important: The car is a Canadian car, thus DOES NOT have an ELD. |
Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Are you running new wires though, alternator to engine bay fusebox, battery to starter, battery to engine bay fusebox?
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Originally Posted by tony_2018
(Post 52014866)
Are you running new wires though, alternator to engine bay fusebox, battery to starter, battery to engine bay fusebox?
just the stock oem ones, the special connectors on the fuse box make that nearly impossible, unless I were to snip them and then solder the pig tail with the special connector. They didn't appear to have any damage, they're from the rsx xharge harness when you de-loom it. |
Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
measure voltage at the alternator when the engine is running?
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Originally Posted by tony_2018
(Post 52015325)
measure voltage at the alternator when the engine is running?
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Are these denso alts?
they last forever if you just replace the brush assembly. just dig one out of a boneyard. there's tons of cheap chinese crap out there now. even moog and gates are now shite. see this guide: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...civic-3114911/ |
Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Also most relocations run a 0/2 awg wiring from the trunk to the front. I've read from another that its best to run a separate wire to the starter from the battery
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Originally Posted by tamboo
(Post 52015777)
Are these denso alts?
they last forever if you just replace the brush assembly. just dig one out of a boneyard. there's tons of cheap chinese crap out there now. even moog and gates are now shite. see this guide: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...civic-3114911/ Remy brand re-man "rebuilt in mexico" i've had junk ones before. but to have 2 bad back to back, seems fishy, no?
Originally Posted by tony_2018
(Post 52015784)
Also most relocations run a 0/2 awg wiring from the trunk to the front. I've read from another that its best to run a separate wire to the starter from the battery
0ga is what i have now for the batt to fuse box and starter to batt they are separate and were before too due to length. |
Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Just came here to say I want your Integra :tobes
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-t...8d667df443.jpg
Originally Posted by wunfstgsr
(Post 52017419)
Just came here to say I want your Integra :tobes
Fixed the issue, surprised no one suggested fuse #15 in the under the dash fuse box, alternator control SP. car's running at 13.80-14V. which is what my tuner said i'd need so we could finish the tune. Hope this can help others who may stumble across it. No idea how i missed it or if i just didn't put that fuse back after i yanked them all way back. Used the legend sheet Wunfst sent me from an eariler thread a while back. |
Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Originally Posted by B_Swapped93
(Post 52018304)
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-t...8d667df443.jpg
Made 635/460 at just 7.1K last Tuesday. Fixed the issue, surprised no one suggested fuse #15 in the under the dash fuse box, alternator control SP. car's running at 13.80-14V. which is what my tuner said i'd need so we could finish the tune. Hope this can help others who may stumble across it. No idea how i missed it or if i just didn't put that fuse back after i yanked them all way back. Used the legend sheet Wunfst sent me from an eariler thread a while back. Hmm #15 is notorious for blowing but at least all you needed was to put it back in. What do you think it will make now with everything setup properly? |
Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Originally Posted by B_Swapped93
(Post 52018304)
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-t...8d667df443.jpg
Made 635/460 at just 7.1K last Tuesday. Fixed the issue, surprised no one suggested fuse #15 in the under the dash fuse box, alternator control SP. car's running at 13.80-14V. which is what my tuner said i'd need so we could finish the tune. Hope this can help others who may stumble across it. No idea how i missed it or if i just didn't put that fuse back after i yanked them all way back. Used the legend sheet Wunfst sent me from an eariler thread a while back. |
Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Fired the car up today and the voltage was ALL OVER the place 11.30 the 12 then 13.50 etc then down again tho didn't go back to 11.30 hovered between 13.60/13v any thoughts. stays the same more or less weather you rev it up or put load on it.
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
Check your connections, its suppose to stay above 13v at least.
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Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-t...2f95d8b739.jpg
Hovers around 13.80-14.10v at start up then as soon as i start driving it starts going to shit 12.30 back up to low 12s then all the way to 11.30 even. It's random there's no predicting the order it drops. Doesn't matter how much or how little load i put on it. We've been talking about bypassing the voltage regulator and having it put out max voltage at all times. This isn't really a legal street car so i'm aware of the risks: shorter life and having it just die all at once. In kpro i see the ELD is reading 4.53v I don't have an ELD as my car is Canadian, i'll be disabling it tomorrow in MISC of kpro |
Re: Low voltage 98 kswap batt relocate.
**SOLVED**
Took the car to OGX-Race here in Toronto Friday night. Spent close to 4-hrs running various tests, had it narrowed down to either the ALT it's self or the brand new Ktuned tucked harness! played with the plug that goes to the ALT a little more pulled the power wire out(black/yellow stripe), put it back and now we couldn't even get it to charge sometimes like it had been. Looked at a diagram and checked for 12v with key ON, first was the Intake cam sensor, 12v(ex is separate), next the VSS plug, 12v then the reverse lockout 12v. On the ktuned harness there is NO purge solenoid or "input"(something for the base rsx). These plugs should have 12v in the ON position too via the black/yellow wire. Then we checked the power wire for the ALT, nothing... we put 12v from the REV-lock plug to the power wire for the alt(removed the pin) and the car was charging just fine making 14.25v. We 100% confirmed there was a break INSIDE the brand new harness, between the REV-lock and the alt plug my guy is going to K-tuned this week to discuss how their brand new harness (that's a week old) was DOA. Maybe this will help others test instantly if it's the harness or ALT, we wrapped up at 12:30am can't thank Ryan(OGX) enough. The reason it would be ok, then shit all of a sudden was due to the wire still being partially connected inside and when the car driving it would wiggle and go to shit. We simulated this by moving the wire around till it finally broke INSIDE the loom. |
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