What’s up guys I’m swapping an H23a into my 2000 civic ek coupe when I plug my h series computer into the harness my fuel doesn’t kick on but when I put my OEM d series computer in it does but when the h series ecu is in everything works except the fuel so I can turn it over here it crank but no start I know for a fact I’m getting no spark I think it’s from the distributor. My motor is from Japan it’s a 2000 h23a as well I’m almost positive it comes out of the Accord wagon SIR. What American model and motor can I use to get the correct distributor to put on so I get spark. My friend told me I could also change the pins around in the computer so my fuel will kick on and I can use and keep the distributor that’s on the motor now if anyone knows what I could possibly do or what I’m doing wrong help me out thank you

 

I bet you need to move the terminal at slot 16 on ECU connector A to slot 15. Others more learned can confirm.

 

Should I be able to use a different distributor from an accord though to get spark so I don’t need to go into the ECU?

 

I thought this was about fuel?

 

Please post a picture of the ECU with the engine harness plugs plugged into it.

 

no this is about no spark it cranks over there is just no spark when I use my d series ECU but when my H23a ECU is in my fuel doesn't prime or anything so im not sure what I can do and what computer to use or realistically how to solve this issue tomorrow im going to a junk yard to get a distributor from a 2000 honda accord 4 cyl to see if that will work with my harness and computers or I might just get a harness from an accord instead I don't really know direction I should go

 

I will have to do so tomorrow im not home with the car right now but I will send it tomorrow in the morning

 

Have you tried to START the car with the stock Civic ECU ??? It may not run properly, but it is worth a try so that you can rule out issues with your wiring at the engine itself. If it does in fact start, it is likely that the ICM wire that Freedo suggested above is your problem when trying to utilize the JDM H23A ECU.

 

No even with the OEM ECU it does not start fuel will prime but it won’t start it cranks but still no start

 

These are both computers plugged in you can tell which is the H series computer because it’s written on it

 

In the photos where the empty plug location has pins in it as opposed to the top photos where there are NO pins in the empty plug location, are any of the plug locations that HAVE a plug inserted into them void of pins ??? The fact that the original factory ECU for the chassis will not crank the engine suggests that you have a wiring or mechanical issue. So start from the basics: fuel, spark and compression. Make sure your pistons are getting wet from fuel entering the cylinders, put a spark plug into one of the plug wires and hold the threads to a bolt on the engine while turning the ignition key to start... make sure you have a strong blue spark, and lastly... do a compression test and make sure the engine is capable of running.

 

It’s obviously not priming fuel with the swapped ECU, so that tells me that it’s not grounding pin 16 on ECU connector A to trigger the pgm-fi relay like it does with the original ECU.

It’s been a little bit since I looked, but I think the Preludes all used OBD2A ECU plugs whereas your Civic uses OBD2B ECU plugs. Your solution may be to just get an OBD2B to OBD2A jumper harness.

 

So if I get that jumper harness use my h23a ECU? Or the d series ecu? I want to make sure I’m getting the correct part so I’m not waisting money I’m on a really tight budget lol I found an eBay one for 25$ but I want to make sure that it could possibly correct my issue

 

Before you buy that, post a pic of the where the harness connects to the H23 ECU but with the ECU disconnected.

 

I don’t really know what to mean by void pins and most of the top half but the second half I did all of that I’m getting no spark from my distributor and I don’t know why that’s what I’m trying to figure out so I can go down the right path with this lol and I’m completely stuck on what I need to do

 

I will do that when I get home to the car for sure and send it

 

Yes, post a picture of both your original ECU and the H23 ECU unplugged from your engine harness... showing the plugs of the ECU's.

 

here are the pictures with the ecu disconnected and where they plug into hopefully this is what you were asking for lol





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Didn’t see this before I posted the other pictures but here is both of them next to each other the front one is the H23 ECU and the one in the back is the D series ECU

 

Your picture above is very telling... your original ECU has three plug locations side-by-side with pins in them and one smaller plug location that is bare. Your replacement H23A ECU has pins in ALL FOUR plug locations !!! This means that you have an automatic or ATTS type ECU... and it could be OBD-2A or OBD-2B in design. There is no way to know for sure from the picture that you have posted. The part number on the side may help, but I don't know those by memory, so I couldn't tell you for sure either way. The part number would be 37280-XXX-ZZZ with "X" being the engine type and "Z" being the version designation, and if you post it here in this thread, someone may be able to identify it if you just want to know for ***** and giggles.

Since your H23A ECU will not start your car, my suspicion is that an OBD-2B -> OBD-2A ECU adapter harness will help you start the car, but you will still get a TON of codes because your swap has neither an automatic transmission nor an "ATTS" manual transmission.

Personally, I think you are going about this all wrong. You are assuming that the H23A engine will run properly with a stock ECU... but you are forgetting that the ECU is for the CAR with that H23A installed in it. Your Civic has a different fuel pump, different exhaust, a different emissions system and likely a different intake tube and exhaust manifold/header... which means that it really isn't "Right" for operating this engine in your Civic. I would get an OBD-2B -> OBD-1 ECU adapter harness and plug a P28 (or equivalent) with Hondata s300 into it and TUNE the car properly. If done correctly, this will result in no codes and the MIL light will be off until you actually have a problem.

 

Also, let's not lose sight of the fact that the car should start on the stock Civic ECU... and since it doesn't, you still have some other gremlins to sort out. I would be checking for both fuel at the injector (wet spark plugs and/or piston tops after turning the car over for 20 seconds or so) and spark from a spark plug wire with a spark plug in the end held close to a bolt somewhere. It is not going to start like it is a stock Civic engine... you may have to hold the gas to the floor or pedal it a bit... and hold the key in the START position for quite a few seconds before releasing... but it should start.

 

Ok wow alright that’s a lot lol but thank my you very much I can’t buy it all right now because I have to save a little bit but that is the direction I’m going to go because I still have to pass emissions so I can’t afford to have all those codes haha is there a certain type of P28 ECU or is it all just about the same? Want to make sure I spend my money on the correct thing and also the right jumper harness lol

 

Alright I’ll give it ago again I must be overlooking something so I will check that out tomorrow in the morning and see what I can do thank you again

 

This should be good right?

 

And what about these two ECU’s?