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Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
Originally Posted by KiNGDEE206
Idk if you can see the blue top hats it’s kind of angled towards bottom instead of flush
but the bolts bolting down fuel rail may be causing it
i don’t have a spacer before the fuel rail meaning
im>>> NO SPACER >>> fuel rail>>> bolt bolting down fuel rail
how do I attack this problem?
I have the perfect solution for you! I too ran into the same problem when I upgraded my injectors to the tall ID 1,000 cc injectors, I needed something to support the fuel rail and adjust as you tighten down the bolts. I had these springs left over that I never used from a radiator fan I bought. I used 3 springs under the rail and torqued the bolts, as you torque them the spring compresses and adjusts to the height it works perfect! here's a pic of the springs I'm talking about. Build looks good so far!
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
I would use a stack of washers on the mounting studs... and if the studs are not long enough, replace them with either longer ones or use longer bolts instead of studs and nuts. If you use the latter hardware, you can use oil or vaseline to keep the washers together. Also, just an observation: Assuming that your wire colors on your injector plugs are still original, you have them plugged into the wrong fuel injectors. All plugs have a yellow/black positive wire, but the ground coming from the ECU is different for each fuel injector. The color order, from the cam gear end of the engine toward the distributor end will be brown, red, blue, and yellow.
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
A worm gear clamp on the oil drain line is fine as long as the hose fits the barb correctly...ie. not trying to force an undersized hose on oversized barb or vice versa. I'd also suggest to check and make sure that entry into the oil drain flange is clean and clear.
If you are getting a new charge pipe made I'd also suggest taking that opportunity to also upgrade that blow off valve to an authentic Greddy (if you want to retain that flange style) or something else. Those replicas are very prone to being problematic.
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
For starting to check for leaks, I'd recommend opening a stock GSR map in SManager, then going in and adjusting the injector size to 750cc, and if you're using anything other than a stock MAP sensor (which is probably the case), select the correct MAP sensor in the software. This will probably get you running enough to check for leaks, but I wouldn't be driving around on it.
Regarding fueling and HP calculations, I have used 18% as the drivetrain loss, so 400 whp would require 488 at the crank. At 0.65 BSFC, you'll need just over 200 lph of pump, so you are probably OK there but not much room to grow. Your 750 cc injectors will be the problem. You'd need 1,000 cc injectors to stay under 85% injector duty cycle without bumping up fuel pressure. Again, I'm using conservative numbers, so some folks may tell you that you're fine, but I'd rather be conservative than blow my **** up.
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
Youre using injectors quite a bit larger than stock. So when trying to start the computer is thinking you have stock injectors. Just buy the basemap for $40 and make sure everything is 100% before you go for a tune. On the basemap you could even drive it down the street just not going into boost.
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
If this were my build I would do something about the intercooler mounting and piping. I would do a backdoor setup on at least the hot side since it looks like the radiator is shifted pretty far over on the passenger side. I would mount the intercooler so that it is solid, not sure if those things hanging are temporary or how you are going to mount it. On the cold side I would have the pipes completely redone and have the blow of valve section all welded in and not use couplers and clamps. I would also use Vanjen quick release clamps wherever possible, they are quick and easy and also help from pressure blowing your pipes off the couplers or faulty clamps.
It's a little cash up front but so badass and easy in the long run.
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC
If this were my build I would do something about the intercooler mounting and piping. I would do a backdoor setup on at least the hot side since it looks like the radiator is shifted pretty far over on the passenger side. I would mount the intercooler so that it is solid, not sure if those things hanging are temporary or how you are going to mount it. On the cold side I would have the pipes completely redone and have the blow of valve section all welded in and not use couplers and clamps. I would also use Vanjen quick release clamps wherever possible, they are quick and easy and also help from pressure blowing your pipes off the couplers or faulty clamps.
It's a little cash up front but so badass and easy in the long run.
Agreed, those intercooler mounts dont look up to handle the job. and it seems like it hangs super low to the ground., Wouldnt want it damaged by trash in the road. few others things i notices. The ground on the valve cover looks stretched unless its just the picture. Please run an air filter on the turbo. Please run an actual dump pipe and dont just let it blow like that into the engine bay. And use those fittings on the valve cover and run a catch can. Wouldnt want oil everywhere or potentially causing a fire.
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
The ideal thing to do there would be to NOT use that first bend/flange for the downpipe you have at all. I would suggest getting a new flange, and tight rad. 2.5" 90 and begin the downpipe with better angle AWAY from the radiator.
5 bolt in your case is actually better clearance wise than what you would have with a vband outlet turbine housing.
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
You'll be golden if you start fresh with a new flange/elbow like Autoworks said. You have plenty of space to work comfortably with, even with the radiator/shroud there, in my eyes.
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
Originally Posted by KiNGDEE206
im still needing a answer on if those “blox style for” works okay as I wanna maximize my fuel setup. Will walbro 255 and 750cc injectors with 50-60 psi 80-85% duty cycle to hit my mark 400whp
Woah!! You talking about base pressure? You shouldn't need to go that high with 750cc on pump 93. The walbro 255 will be fine for that range; make sure it is the GSS-342. Those injectors will get you to 400whp range with a little bit of wiggle room at that. I've hit a high of 56% DC on mine at one point, base fuel pressure of 44psi, and smoked the tires in 4th at 70mph. Butt dyno report says that was damn close to the 400 mark easy.
Maybe it's because it's also a 1:1 rising rate FPR(?) I know at that rate, it would put my pressure in full boost at around 65ish-psi anyways.. Whatever FPR you get, just make sure it is 1:1 rising rate.. The regulator I'm using is the Aeromotive 13129, in case you're wondering.
i finally got the specs but I kind of don’t understand it
Anyway
i tried to set the ignition timing with my harbor freight timing light and it’s way off on ignition distributor I can’t get it to line up with the single dotted line any tips?
my block is tdc
my head head is off by .25-.5 tooth
my head has been resurfaced. I know I done it once personally I believe previous owner done it once too but unsure
I had a similar issue with the ignition timing being out pretty far once before but, I wasnt quite lined up on the cam and crank. Once I finally got it right, no prob. Now. Being the surfaces were milles, that's going to throw the alignment off a bit. In **some** instances, you may need adjustable pulleys to correct. If not, it's gonna be a fight with the belt to get it dialed in. I believe it's the exhaust cam the dizzy is mated to on a B? Anywho.. I may be mistaken entirely but, I do believe you're up for a bit of a challenge here.
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
Originally Posted by KiNGDEE206
Hi guys I need help im overheating
setup:
ebay dual core radiator. a slim 12” Hayden 3680 according to summit cfm 800-899 range. Max 800
i got it mounted as a pusher (front)
I think I need a new fan?i read spal or fal
i don’t have a budget in mind but cheapest as posse while retaining quality is my goal I aint gonna lie I would like to spend up to 60 if possible. But absolute with a frown willing to spend up to 100 for a fan. Can’t justify anymore when my eBay rad is $50
(ebay alum rad + stock fans was working so fine :/ dam turbo clearance!)
do I buy a spal puller(Oem) and keep my Hayden 12” 800cfm in front as a pusher for more airflow?
or remove and only use a spal puller?
i read puller fan better than pusher
ps I’m leaking brake fluid where my finger is pointing
pushing out at the sleeve why is that?
-3 Russell line brand new
i tighten it like crazy. Could my hardline be messed up?
I’m observing hardline isn’t creating a seal with the braided line thus pushing fluid through to sleeve
ummmm did you drill holes THROUGH your intercooler to mount it?
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
Originally Posted by Txdragon
pretty sure he didn't.. my Vibrant has them already there in the end tanks specifically for the mount tabs.
ahhh i see, i dont recall ever seeing intercoolers with the holes pre-existing so it just threw me off. pretty smart of vibrant to have them makes life alot easier.
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
Originally Posted by KiNGDEE206
Head scratcher here last resort will be to buy that spal fan for $150 on eBay :/
bought brand new Oem thermostat
trying to bleed coolant
the bottom hose just will not get hot
the fan switch works and turns fan on automatically
itll slowly overheat
stayed 212 for a while then slowly rise to 216 I shut car off once it hit 216
any ideas why thermostat just won’t open?
ive installed the thermostat with the hole nipple at the highest point to the naked eye
bottom hose just won’t get hot which I think means thermostat isn’t opening correct??
take the thermostat in the house and boil it. If it doent open, its bad. It shouldnt take too long once the water starts boiling. Itll actually slowly open as the water is getting hotter, just before th water boils.
Re: Lsvtec build thread first timer kingdee’s. Questions and input thread!
