Hey H-T,

Long time lurker but first time posting. Unfortunately the day has come where I need to ask a question of my own... I just bought a 2000 CRV a few weeks back, and have been unable to get it running, sort of. I will write everything I have done and checked, and what I'm leaning towards right now. As the car sits right now, when I crank it over, it stumbles and backfires a little but will not start. It feels like it wants to start but will not.

CEL/FAULT CODES
The computer is throwing me no fault codes. I had temporarily unplugged the MAP sensor, and it threw a code 7 (map) but since has gone away and not returned.

FUEL
Replaced with clean fresh fuel. Injectors are firing, as evident by fuel on the spark plugs and fuel spraying out spark plug holes when testing compression. Have ruled out the fuel system by also trying starting fluid in the intake.

SPARK
Spark plugs create spark. It looks to be of fair strength. We checked the coil and even tried another one to verify. The distributor was changed before I bought the car.

COMPRESSION
175 - 175 - 170 - 145
Not fantastic, but should run without much issue.

TIMING
Here is where I think the issue lies. The mechanical timing (crank/cams) is bang on. The crank was off by 1 tooth when I bought the car, but it did manage to start and run for 30 seconds or so. Since then, it has not run. I re-did timing, marks on cams line up, marks on crank lines up, engine is at TDC, etc.. I am confident this is correct. However, when we tried using starting fluid through the intake, I am having backfiring/ignition through the intake. A big flame. This leads me to believe the issue is in the timing, on the electrical side.

CKP (Crank Position Sensor)
Based on my reading, this is located in the distributor. I used a multimeter to test resistance and got 0.425.. within spec? The distributor is brand new, but it is not ruled out entirely.

As I mentioned, we tried starting fluid in the intake, fuel directly in cylinders, brand new spark plugs, drying out cylinder and cranking WOT (no fuel)... no luck.
Edit: we also disconnected the exhaust before the cat to rule out a plugged exhaust.

Tomorrow I am going to check continuity between the CKP and ECU, but other than that, I am stumped. What am I missing? Is the ECU fried? Have I forgotten to check something?
Any help is appreciated.

 

It won't spark at all without a cam or crank position - it wouldn't know when (not a points distributor) so you know those work.
Easy stuff first...are your plug wires on in the correct order. Use a timing light to make sure cyl 1 is firing around TDC.

 

Plug wires are for sure in the correct spots
Borrowing a timing light this weekend to check.

 

Using a timing light we double checked that the distributor was firing at tdc and it's all bang on.

Still will not start. Really need some help on this project...

Thank you

 

Honestly something you think is right has to be wrong. If everything you've checked is indeed correct it will start, so you are going to have to go back and challenge some assumptions.

Honda valve covers are easy, make sure you're at cyl 1 TDC compression, not exhaust/overlap. The cam lobes should be pointing almost directly away from the rollers. At TDC compression the rotor should be pointing near cylinder 1's pole on the cap.

I believe Honda's cylinder 1 is always at the crank pulley, not necessarily left-to-right 1-4.

 

I will double check what you've suggested here, on Friday.

This is why we are so stumped right now... it should be running.

 

I'm pretty sure the firing order is 4-3-2-1 on that? Check fuel pressure/PUMP. The injectors can still spray but normally the car will start just stumble all over the place if it's bad. Sounds like your on the right path. Good spark is BLUE but YELLOW will get you by. My instinct at this point? You fuel fouled the plugs! Put some cheap *** champions in there if it fires run it out then spend some money on Iridium's.

 

Firing order is 1-4-3-2. Order of the cylinders is 4-3-2-1 from passenger to driver side.

Plugs were fouled, but still made bright blue spark. Still, I have already swapped out for some cheap champions and have no change.

 

Then your instinct is good. Spark,air,fuel...That's what it takes for an engine to run as long as it all happens when it's supposed too. We can talk Horsepower later that's about efficiency of the after mentioned. If you have fire coming out the intake and you seem confident about timing? I'd start looking at bad/bent valves?

 

The intake backfiring is not so common. It happens, but not all the time. Today we didn't have it happen once (while spraying carb cleaning directly through the butterfly valve.
Bent or burnt valves has crossed my mind, but I feel as if it should still run, given the good compression the engine has.
If the valves were leaking, wouldn't it not hold compression after turning over a few times? Shouldn't the compression leak out and the compression pressure gauge slowly go down?

 

Double check all your grounds using the service manual

 

We bypassed all grounds yesterday using auxiliary cables. No change.

 

You are beyond a "stumper" here....It's straight up BONER! I'd triple check the timing cuz it might be 180 off? Possible electrical gremlin. I know fords (Flip Over Read Directions) Had a roll over switch in the trunk that would fail and kill everything! Stumped me once for awhile. If you have good compression then yes, you could rule that out. I did not realize you checked it. What about cams? Do you have any flat lobes? That might give you a good comp reading but still be bad. I'm new here and just trying to contribute but I've noticed TECH 8 is VERY knowledgeable and I would certainly like him (I assume) to chime in. Your covering the bases and in the end what you have learned will make you a better mechanic! Probably not any comfort now..lol? Let me re-read and think.

 

Actually your crank position sensor on that CRV is in the bottom of the engine behind the flywheel. It's a lot of work to get to for such a little sensor. I just changed mine on my 99 CRV. Good luck with your issue

 

Did anyone talk fuel pressure yet?

 

Hey I have a 98 CRV that has the exact same problems I'm not an expert but I'm learning, it's got 125,000 miles and been sitting for 10 yrs but I was wondering if you ever found a solution to your problem

 

As always, troubleshoot the spark, gas, and air, in this order.
Is your immobilizer chip working? Is the ECU working?

 

As often happens, OP never posted back with solution. And bathmat has not posted for 3 years.