yo yo; i’m sure this has all been covered a little before but just looking for some clarification as i’m a little confused.
bought a b18c1 GSR out of a EK, swapping it into my EG hatch. canadian car obd1 , engine/harness/ecm i got all seem to be obd2. i have the entire harness and ECU so wondering if i need to change anything? also have bulkhead connector thay goes to driver side; what needs to be done there?
just looking for a little guidance !

as for mechanical items, i have the rear transmission brace from ek.. does it bolt up or do i need one for b series eg, shift linkage i am missing, same thing does it need one from eg b series?

pics below

 

You cannot use the EK harness in your EG chassis... the obvious dead give-away is that the ECU plugs are found on one end. In the EG chassis, the engine harness only goes to the shock towers, not all of the way into the cabin. So, you will need to keep your EG SOHC engine harness and add the VTEC, Knock, and IAB wires from the EK harness to your original EG engine harness. For a clean look, you will need to terminate those wires at the right side shock tower plugs of your engine harness and then add the opposing wire on the chassis side of the right shock tower chassis harness plugs and run those wires through the firewall and down to the ECU plugs. There will also be plugs that need to be changed... the distributor, alternator, and fuel injector plugs. Again, remove them from the EK harness and splice them in to your original EG harness.

You will need EG/EK "B" series shift linkage and you will need a '94-01 Integra manual rear "T" bracket. You offered no photo/description of the Left side engine bracket found on your GSR engine, so I cannot make a suggestion as to what you need there. Lastly, you will need an OBD-1 P72 ECU or equivalent so that it plugs directly into the ECU plugs found in your chassis.

 

Spoke with someone last night and basically said same thing you did, they did mention that the v-tec should be plug and play from the d16z6 to the b18c1, They also noted that since i have a OBD2 p72 computer ( if you can confirm from the photo i have above, that would be greatly appreciated) that i will need an OBD2 to OBD1 harness.

On the linkage that sounds good, i know i need the T bracket at the rear of the engine/transmission, i have an OEM honda one with part number ill look into it if it is the proper one for the swap. I did read that the EG factory engine mounts do work with a GSR engine just super soft and will cause wheel hop.

 

Since your engine bay photo is sideways, I missed the VTEC solenoid in the pic. My bad. Yes, those plugs will work then although you may have to lengthen them. You DO have an OBD-2A style ECU, but understand that if you get an OBD-1 -> OBD-2A ECU adapter, you will also have to deal with the sensor issues that come with that newer type of emissions system: secondary O2 sensor, fuel tank pressure switch, and charcoal cannister vent valve just to name a few. So just to keep your ECU, do you really want to have to pull your fuel tank to install the tank pressure switch, purchase a secondary O2 sensor and have a bung welded into the exhaust, and finally get a newer OBD-2 style charcoal cannister and replace the OE smaller one in your engine bay AND THEN wire all of these systems up so you have no codes ??? Alternatively, if you don't run these items, you will have an eternal "Check Engine Light". Trust me, you will be happier using an OBD-1 P72... and if you don't want to pony up the $$$ for one of those, a P28 chipped with a GSR basemap from Xenocron, HAMotorsport, or Phereable is a more cost effective option and will be better than the ECU that you have.

As for the mounts specifically... you can use the Civic or Integra upper transmission mount. IF you have the two-bolt engine bracket on the timing belt side of the engine for the EK mount, then you can actually use the original Civic mount you have pictured. If the bracket is the three bolt design, you will need the factory aluminum Civic or Integra mount. The front transmission torque mount will have to be "B" series, and you can remove the A/C torque mount stud from your single jingle and use it on the "B" series A/C bracket. There is a locator plate under each frame rail for the Civic torque mounts... if you try and use the Integra torque mounts, they will not fit flush against the bottom of the frame without removing these plates. All rubber mounts make wheel hop more common... if you purchase a set of quality mounts from say HASport, this will reduce the wheel hop issues.

 

So luckly for me i do live in Canada so i dont have the emission regulations what you guys have down there, i could bare with a eternal engine light for time being, i do plan on going s300 Hondata so i believe if i do that i should be able to turn off the codes/CEL for the emission, correct me if i am wrong there. But ill defs look into what my options are now that i have the information you provided me with.
So just to clarify things, ill need to re-wire distributor connector, ALT, INJ, Knock. Possible lengthen/shorten all. Which isnt a big deal.

Ill look into what mounts i have when home tonight, i have all Factory ones from my d16 then all mounts that came off EK that swap was in.
Thanks man appreciate all the info!