Ghost in MDX
It can be some other part of the multiplex integrated control system, since the driver's side under-dash multiplex control unit (MCU) does communicate with the passenger side MCU; but, the under-dash passenger side multiplex control unit (MCU) is:
There is no guarantee that it is the passenger MCU without tests though.
The passenger MCU is separately replaceable from the under-dash fuse/relay box. The unit should just unplug from the various terminals on under-dash fuse/relay box.
- part of the circuit that provides power (+) through the power window relay
- supplies the ground signal (-) to the both headlight relay coils
There is no guarantee that it is the passenger MCU without tests though.
The passenger MCU is separately replaceable from the under-dash fuse/relay box. The unit should just unplug from the various terminals on under-dash fuse/relay box.
It can be some other part of the multiplex integrated control system, since the driver's side under-dash multiplex control unit (MCU) does communicate with the passenger side MCU; but, the under-dash passenger side multiplex control unit (MCU) is:
There is no guarantee that it is the passenger MCU without tests though.
The passenger MCU is separately replaceable from the under-dash fuse/relay box. The unit should just unplug from the various terminals on under-dash fuse/relay box.
- part of the circuit that provides power (+) through the power window relay
- supplies the ground signal (-) to the both headlight relay coils
There is no guarantee that it is the passenger MCU without tests though.
The passenger MCU is separately replaceable from the under-dash fuse/relay box. The unit should just unplug from the various terminals on under-dash fuse/relay box.
Thanks Tech8 . . . One thing I forgot to mention is the buzzing under the driver's side . . . Does that make a difference in your diagnosis? Also, to be more specific, everything is fine through the "acc." key position, it begins at the "on" position through run and doesn't stop until back at off . . . I'll see if I can find the diagnostics . . .
The buzzing noise is not usually due to a multiplex issue.
Last edited by tech8; Aug 8, 2019 at 04:53 PM.
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If you're referring to a buzzing sound when you try to start the car, the buzzing sound is coming from the starter cut relay. It is usually caused by faulty ignition switch contacts. Replacement of the ignition switch (electrical portion) is relatively easy and not too expensive.
The buzzing noise is not usually due to a multiplex issue.
The buzzing noise is not usually due to a multiplex issue.
Great, that everything is resolved without need for replacement.
I kind of wonder if someone previously did something related to the ground bolt though; as, it normally wouldn't loosen if it never been removed.
I kind of wonder if someone previously did something related to the ground bolt though; as, it normally wouldn't loosen if it never been removed.
My guess is it was never totally tightened and as the loosen wires at the connection have slowly deteriorated, becoming more resistant, the tightening became necessary to break through some minor oxidation and make better contact . . . While the screw appeared to be snug, the wires moved when I touched them . . . I was able to, with some force, turn the screw 1 and 1/2 to 2 full turns . . .
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