How would you fix an apparent open between MCU and A/C pressure switch?
The obvious answer is to splice in a new wire as close as possible to the connectors at each end. Before I do something irreversible, I want to verify my conclusions. My symptoms are no compressor OR condenser fan when engaging the AC button. However, I can engage either one by jumping terminals 1 and 2 on the respective relay sockets.
Following the service manual troubleshooting, they point to the pressure switch and indicate that I should have 12v between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 2P connector and body ground with the ignition switch ON. I do NOT get any voltage on either terminal of the 2P connector. However, I do get voltage between the No. 9 terminal of under-dash fuse/relay box connector F (12P) and body ground with the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors connected and the AC button OFF as directed. They state:
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the A/C pressure switch.
Anything else I should be looking at? A bad thermal protector should only affect the compressor. I suppose it is possible I could have 2 bad relays or bad thermal switch and bad condenser relay. The relays would be easy to verify. Neither would explain why I'm apparently missing 12v at the pressure switch though.
Following the service manual troubleshooting, they point to the pressure switch and indicate that I should have 12v between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 2P connector and body ground with the ignition switch ON. I do NOT get any voltage on either terminal of the 2P connector. However, I do get voltage between the No. 9 terminal of under-dash fuse/relay box connector F (12P) and body ground with the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors connected and the AC button OFF as directed. They state:
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the A/C pressure switch.
Anything else I should be looking at? A bad thermal protector should only affect the compressor. I suppose it is possible I could have 2 bad relays or bad thermal switch and bad condenser relay. The relays would be easy to verify. Neither would explain why I'm apparently missing 12v at the pressure switch though.
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homermeza
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Apr 18, 2017 06:51 AM



