Been a while since I have been on here. Car ran great 2 years ago (the car was parked during that time in a garage.) Passed smog 2 years ago (California car). The issue I am having is on WOT its misfiring, hesitates, and rough starting when cold. Once the car warms up starts better but not perfect. The car also has fresh gas 3rd fill up since April. Last fill up was 6 gallons. If I press and let go of the gas when I'm reving it seems to feel great. If i start it up press the gas at WOT or near WOT, (sometimes non WOT same issue) it hesitates and bogs at around 2k-6k. No check engine lights or anything. I probably put 300- miles on it since the beginning of the year. When the gar is cold 3rd startup about it fire up and then get to the fast idle 1500 then just die. It will do that like 2-3 times then just fire up and stay on and fast idle fine then normal idle is good as well.

Engine
B18c JDM GSR swapped.
94 Civic Hatch

Here's the stuff I checked or replaced.
Replaced Distributor Cap and Rotor and Coil
Replaced Spark plugs and Wires
Replaced Fuel filter
Removed injectors and cleaned the nozzle and injector port got rid of all the orange. Checked voltage everything good there as well.
Checked TPS sensor getting the 5 volt constant is there, then checked ecu portion of the sensor getting .5 volts at idle and 4.5 Volts at WOT. Moves fine at different throttle positions.
Removed o2 sensor to check if CAT is plugged same symptoms the hesitation and misfiring is still there under WOT.

Now I have no idea where to go from here.


Thanks again

 

Ohm test the ECT sensor.

Does CEL work?

 

Cel works. I will test the ECT once I get home.

Thanks again.

 

Side note Vtec kicks in fine.

 

Just a quick update, just checked the IAT voltage came back with 5 volts. I checked the ECT voltage came back at 12 volts. Don't think that's right. I unplugged the ECT connector check engine light came on. Plugged it back in and light turned off. Also this is JDM P72 ECU not sure if that makes a difference.

 

Ohm test the unplugged ECU sensor.

How many wires are in your ECT connector and what are the wire colors? Posting pictures would help.

 

The Green connector

Looks like black and Blue and Black

 

That's the VTEC oil pressure switch connector.

The 2P connector for the ECT is under the distributor. It has Red/Wht and Grn/Wht wires.

 

Is this right?
GSR location:


ECT SENSOR--PART NUMBER: 13
ECT SWITCH-- PART NUMBER: 12

Isnt the green plug #13? I thought grey plug is the vtec solenoid?

 

13 is the ECT sensor.

The ECT switch has Grn and Blk wires.

 

#13 and that's under the distributor? I will test that tomorrow. What about the green Plug should it have 12 volts?

 

Maybe not for the B18C1.

 

No. The green plug is the VTEC pressure switch connector.

Correct.

Yes, the VTEC pressure switch connector should have 12V.

 

Just a quick update, tested the ECT plug and tested ok. I removed the igniter from the distributor and got it tested and passed, ran it several times so it could heat up and passed. Replaced the starter and car fires right up still dies when its cold. Still having hesitation issue and misfiring. I removed the air filter and tube and cleaned out the throttle body it was dirty. Removed the Map sensor cleaned it with map sensor cleaner. I removed each each injector used ran carb cleaner through it. Car seems to ran a little better but still having hesitation.

What about the fuel pressure regulator? Anyone know what the symptoms of a bad regulator?

Thanks again for the help.

 

Test details? You need to Ohm test the ECT sensor itself.

For the hesitation, check the ignition timing with a timing gun.

 

I Ohm tested the plug for the ECT using the sound setting came back with a beep. How should I test the senor itself? Ohm as well? Going go and rent fuel pressure gauge, maybe fuel pump is not providing enough pressure. Drove the car yesterday while its hesitating I let go of the gas and press again it feels a lot better.

This was written by Jimmy.
Fuel pressure at idle
B18B1 engines
With regulator vacuum hose attached: 31-36 psi
With regulator vacuum hose disconnected: 40-47 psi

B18C1 engines through 1997
With regulator vacuum hose attached - 39 to 46 psi
With regulator vacuum hose disconnected - 48 to 55 psi

B18C1/B18C5 engines through 98+
With regulator vacuum hose attached - 38-46 psi
With regulator vacuum hose disconnected - 47-54 psi

 

Just hooked up the fuel pressure gauge getting 25 -27 PSI. I pulled the vacuum on the FPR and no change gave the car some gas PSI drops. Then I turned off the car PSI drops instantly to 0. Is this mean both the fuel pump and the FPR is bad?

Thanks again for all the help.

 

Measure the actual resistance (Ohms) across the two sensor pins when engine is cold. The reading should be 200-400 Ohms, if it's good. Don't use the continuity setting on your meter.

Fuel pressure -- Replace the fuel filter first. Then go from there.

 

Did the battery die at anytime?

 

In for the details...

 

Car seems to fixed just changed the fuel pump replaced with a Bosch. Car is running like a champ again. Battery was unhooked from the car while it was sitting for those two years. My dad would start it and move it if needed to do work in the garage and unplug the battery again. Since i got the car back under my roof I start it up weekly drive it around. My strainer fell apart which is probably why the Walbro failed. Crazy thing is even at the 25 psi pressure pump still primes and sounds like how it always sounded since the day I put it in the car.

Thanks again for all the help.