So I’m currently working on my 97 ek. I’m have not been able to get the a/c to blow colder than 60 degrees. It’s pretty much a brand new system.
Evac and rechared
vaccumed for 1hr with leake down test
new evaporator
new condenser
new compressor
new expansion valve
new receiver dryer
min just stuck on why it’s not cold pressures are good

 

My eyesight sucks.

Can you tell me what the high and low gauge readings were and whether the engine rpms were held at 1500 rpm and the A/C was at max and the doors were wide open and the car was in the shade and what the outside temp was when the readings were taken?

 

Low side at 33 high side at 200 it was maybe 80-90 degrees I was in the shop and it was at just idle maybe around 750-900 rpms

 

To use the factory manual charts for diagnosis of low and high side pressures, engine must be held at 1500 rpms with A/C on max cool and doors wide open to reduce compressor recycling.

A precise ambient temp is also important.

 

While i was servicing they system I was going over everything with both the master techs at my job and they reviewed the pressures but just don’t understand why it’s not cooling either with all new parts.

 

If you do the test under the conditions I mentioned and post the high and low side pressures, the factor service manual has a chart to help you pinpoint the problem.

Share these diagrams with your buddies. They'll understand what's needed if they are competent to work on A/C systems.

Also, did your buddies check whether the heater valve on the firewall is stuck open?

 

Those pressures, assuming a proper charge by weight, should have the evaporator quite cold.

Check that the heater valve is moving to the full closed position when you have the dash control on full cold. It's common for the push-pull cable to get slack, so the valve doesn't close all the way, the heater is fighting the A/C.

How cold does the suction line get? The air coming out of the vents should be no more than 5 or 10 degrees above that temperature.

 

I manually closed the valve from the fire wall and also by the ac control and it still not getting cold I was thinking on replacing it cause the internal seal could be bad

 

Does air blow hot from the cabin vents with the A/C off? Is the heater hose located between the valve and firewall hot?

 

So today I replaced the valve on the fire wall and still not cold,

 

Replacing parts randomly gets time consuming and expensive.

See post #6

 

I’ve probably put 300.00 in to this issue and the majority of that number can from the compressor everything else was paid with point I get from my job. I’m just trying to have nice cold a/c in Florida

 

Focus on reliable diagnostic approaches rather than replacing parts randomly. You will spend less money and time. Just trying to guide you to success.

 

I’ve reviewed everything the only thing I have done was check the lines for any clogs

 

When you move the heater control on the dash, it opens/closes the valve that you replaced, and it also opens/closes a blend door inside the heater control unit. Verify that the blend door is functioning properly.

 

Ive had issues with blocked AC condensors with these cars. The stop leak additive and extra oil in the system will cause erroneous readings at times due to pooling of oil and stop leak inside the condensor and in the evaporator inside the car

Make sure you flushed the lines of debris!

 

Wondering if the blower motor flaps are properly closing like they should when moving the adjusting temps at the controls...

 

Today I blew out the linees from the condenser to the dryer and evaporator with air I didn’t have any flush products and it felt cooler on the drive home. Still not cold

 

How cold does the suction line get?

Is the compressor running continuously, or cycling on and off?

 

The line gets pretty cold I try to get a temperature later and it’s cycling on and off

 

A temperature sensor in the evaporator makes it cycle off. That sensor is there to keep the evaporator from icing up. The sensor should trip only just before the evaporator freezes, which makes the air at the vents 38 or 40 degrees.

OK so the sensor is activating. This means one of two things:

The sensor is bad, and cutting the compressor off too soon.

or

The evaporator is actually very cold, but the air is being reheated on the way to the vents.

Either way, you can stop messing with the refrigeration system itself. Anything you could do to improve refrigeration performance will be for naught. It will just make the sensor turn off the compressor a little sooner. The evaporator temperature won't change.

 

To me I felt like the compressor was cutting of early. I can get a price on the temp sensor and see if it’s still available through Honda when I get to work.

 

The EF sensors were no longer available, so I replaced it with an Amazon temp controller. It's been working great for a few years.

 

Ok so on the 96-98 cars the manual lever to close off the heater core inside the car under the dash by the center console always has some slack in it.

Make sure you manually disconnect the slide cable from under the glove box and pull the lever the line connects to all the way towards you. Majority of the time on my 96-98 cars that cable needs adjustment otherwise it doesnt fully close and the blower motor cant blow enough air through the evap core to blow cold through the vents.

So the slide lever from hot to cold is suppose to pull the cable and the lever connected to the cable fully tight. Sometimes the lever for cold can be all the way to the left but the door for blending the cot/cold air isnt fully closed to make 100% of the air flow go into the evaporator core which reduces cooling

 

Yea I went in to parts and they told me that it’s a discontinued part and no local place has it so I might order one online and pull all couple from the junk yard..