F20b w/ t2t4 in 00 EK civic
Updated(12/6/19)


This is written because of the lack of info in a single place so if I have missed something important just let me know

I got tired of reading through the faqs of people asking the same questions over and over and lots of answers scattered all over the place.

and pretty much every single big thread is geared towards eg swaps and running obd1, which I know why that is desirable but In this build I kept OBDII and all of its functions

Mounts

I bought used hasport h swap mounts

I also had to buy a rear t bracket from either a 94-97 accord MT or Prelude MT 97-01

Also my driver side post mount had to be swapped for an h22 post mount(block side)

Apparently the driver side mounts are different between accord and prelude and this is why you have to swap the block side driver post mounts



Wiring/electrical

Since both my car and the engine I bought are OBD2B I used my ex harness and the PCB-004 ECU that came with the engine, it works, there was no immobilizer sensor in the jdm ecu.
I compared the wire colors and they do not differ between USDM and JDM. I had to extend certain wires like the alternator and compared the pin outs from the two ecu's and depinned and repined some wires that were on the jdm ecu onto my ex harness(EGR)

Axels

I bought yonaka h swap axels off of ebay(no issues here but I have read that some users had vibration issues depending on the mounts that you use) if you have the money its a safe bet to use hasport axles with hasport mounts but not required.

Additionally from what I read was if you had an accord half shaft (f -series) (has female end not male) that you can bolt that up and run 90-93 DA integra axles but you need to expand the snap rings so they wont come loose from the trans side

exhaust

I purchased a megan racing header since my engine didn’t come with the lower portion of a stock manifold

this header was actually meant for a prelude so I had to chop the collector flange off and have one from a civic welded on, it was also long and I had to have it adjusted.

best bet would be to buy a hswap header and I think that would work much easier however about double the cost



Misc minor mods
Banjo bolt on the fuel rail is on the opposite side of the motor and in my case I carefully rerouted the stock fuel lines to the driver side.(recommended that you extend the flex hose and not bend the hard lines like I did for a cleaner look)

resister box is not something I had to worry about.

I went ahead and did a timing job which included timing belt, blance shaft belt, water pump, pulleys and switching to a manual tensionor( I had bad belt walk with the manual tensionor so I opted for another hydraulic) shouldn't be an issue but note these should be replaced well before its time for another belt

The timing belt kit is for 97-01 prelude with an H22, the belt has one less tooth than the original and fits tight but it works

Air conditioning/ power steering

Ive opted to keep ac and power steering

Innovative makes a bracket that lets you keep your d series compressor and stock ac, I purchased the knock off version on ebay for about 50 dollars less.
as far as the bracket went, it bolted up fine and the compressor bolted up fine as well) HOWEVER, the lines to the compressor have a fair amount of stress put on them and will require some manual manipulation. Calibrated rubber mallet worked well for me. You WILL NOT be able to keep the stock condenser Fan. I purchased a slim fan that had a high cfm rating but 10 in was as large as I could go and to be honest the ac really doesn't work well if the car isn't moving. better fan is needed.

I also Kept P/S. most other power steering setups I read about they were able to get an auto parts store to custom make them a new HP hose that connects from the rack to the pump. I wasted so much time calling and driving to different shops trying to have this done and I was not able to find a single place that could do this.
that being said, the pump you need is a 90-93 ACCORD PS pump and the HP hose from that same year accord. you need this pump because the inlet comes out at a 45 degree angle and that's very important with the minimal space in that area.
The HP hose will bolt directly to your PS rack BUT, the bends are all wrong and its almost impossible to get the angle bent right by hand SO, I went out and bought a 6' brake line and used that to connect the rack to the HP hose. Huge Pain. but it works very well.

That being said I had to swap my crank pulley with a dual belt one from either a h22 or f22, I went with an f22 because of the price difference and as far as I know there is no difference

the belts line up perfectly

Shifter and cables

I used K series shifter and cables with the hybrid racing adapter plate. works very well.

in order to mount this and not have the shifter in my throat I bought the BWR version of the drop down relocator and this allows for factory interior pieces to be retained.
im not gonna lie I was cheap for awhile and just bolted the bad boy to center tunnel because I didn't buy that kit for awhile.






The Car is actually for sale because it just wasn't practical for me to drive everyday. The car was great to me and I think ill end up making a youtube video of an overview before Its gone. I enjoyed working on this thing even with all the headaches it threw at me.

 

Good info. I almost went with an F-series turbo. Keep us updated! I’m interested in pics.

 

Thanks! I’m actually almost done with it, I’ll be putting in the shift cables, the exhaust and power steering and a couple other odds and ends and hopefully be done this weekend.

And btw turns out the jdm ecu works, and I went with rsx shifter and cables

pics will come soon!

 

updated 12/6/19