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F20b w/ t2t4 in 00 EK civic

 
Old 06-20-2019, 08:57 AM
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Default F20b w/ t2t4 in 00 EK civic

F20b w/ t2t4 in 00 EK civic


This is written because of the lack of info in a single place so if I have missed something important just let me know

Itís also for any info that others want to add that can be useful, I got tired of reading through the faqs of people asking the same questions over and over

and pretty much every single big thread is geared towards eg swaps and running obd1, which I know why that is desirable but right now it saves money if I can run a stock ecu, while my motors stock.

Mounts

I bought used hasport h swap mounts

I also had to buy a rear t bracket from either a 94-97 accord MT or Prelude MT 97-01

Also my driver side post mount had to be swapped for an h22 post mount(block side)

Apparently the driver side mounts are different between accord and prelude and this is why you have to swap the block side driver post mounts, not real sure because Iíve only owned civics



Wiring/electrical

Since both my car and the engine I bought are OBD2B I will initially be using my ex harness and the PCB-004 ECU that came with the engine, im not sure if this will work and if it has a removable immo chip but we will see.

The distributor pin out is exactly the same on the f20b harness and the ex harness so im hopefull

Axels

I bought yonaka h swap axels off of ebay and ill report back on any isues I have if they arise

Additionally from what I read was if you had an accord half shaft (f -series I think) (has female end not male) that you can bolt that up and run 90-93 DA integra axles but you need to expand the snap rings so they wont come loose from the trans, again this is just what ive read.

exhaust

I purchased a megan racing header since my engine didnít come with the lower portion of a stock manifold

I believe ill need to remove my cat and have my exhaust adjust but I will let you know



Misc minor mods

Fuel rail will either need to be swapped to a lhd model or you can extend/relocate your stock fuel lines.

No modification need to the stock injection system IE resister box

I went ahead and did a timing job which included timing belt, blance shaft belt, water pump, pulleys and switching to a manual tensionor

As far as the manual tensionor goes you can use any f series or h23 manual tensionor

The timing belt kit is for 97-01 prelude with an H22, the belt has one less tooth than the original and fits tight but it works.

Air conditioning/ power steering

Ive opted to keep ac and power steering

Innovative makes a bracket that lets you keep your d series compressor and stock ac, I purchased the knock off version on ebay for about 50 dollars less. Weíll see what happens

Im also keeping P/S and I plan to use an f22 or h22 bracket, imnot sure which will work better but I also need a pump from either motor and will have to figure out how to fabricate a hose for it

That being said I have to swap my crank pulley with a dual belt one from either a h22 or f22, I went with an f22 because of the price difference but please chime in if this will cause issues.

Still unsure how the belts will line up and which ones I will run

Shifter and cables

Havenít decide on the route I want to take but you have a few options

Accord 94-97 shifter and cables, and 92-01 prelude shifter and cables should work( people complain about long throw and I believe the years are correct)

Rsx/ k series shifters and cables are also a possibility, you just need an adapter bracket where they connect to the trans which runs around 50 bucks

Just note you have to run h/f series shifter with the respective cables and k series shifters with k series cables.

Im not going to go into detail on cutting the shifter box hole you can find that many other places, but you basically cut a place for the shifter and a hole for the cables

Pics to come and maybe a video or two as I go through the process




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