Took this hatch from my friend after it got burned engine room turned into ashes it had a b16 in it during that time
I have been working on this DIY all alone by my self took me some time and its in progress

 

Friend told me its nearly impossible to get it cheap fix so he handed over the car to me after taking out the motor and selling it to someone else

 

Took the challenge to do all the stuff by my self no matter how worst i would do as we have mechanics here who are cheaters and frauds ...... sand blasting , priming cleaning and painting
took some time

 

Bought some goods for restoration and completed front suspension work

 

As i didn't had any motor neither any front cabin parts including dashboard or any engine bay components ...... somehow i managed to grab this 95 ex from another friend of mine
who abandon his car for more then 5 years due to seized engine. d15b3 carby

 

Since i have a donor kind of a car to use and swap the parts to restore the civic ..... Lets part out the whole ****

Uploaded the pics in reverse order

​​​​​​​

 

It was the time to remove the head and see whats the condition and it was like yukh......

It wasn't even rotating using breaker bar

 

Time to put some tricks into play

Did some head and block surface using sand paper with sanding kit in house

 

It was time to put it back and set the timing and replace timing belt and head gasket, at the same time used almost 5 liters of gasoline in place of oil to remove sludge and dirt
out of the oil pan and it was like PITA ... it took almost half day to get the sludge and debris clean from the pan ..... no sign of any metal particles or pieces
tighten up the crank bolts to the torque specs and clean the strainer filter in the pan.

 

The story now is that the engine takes some force to rotate while rotating through main pulley bolt 17 no. size, I used the pickup truck to toe around the yard and it improved a bit but still the same.
Its cranking cams rotate but stuck at one point then i have to apply the force using breaker bar and it gets out of the stuck zone. Took out the carby to give a general clean

 

god damn....

 

Did the timing adjustment today and it looks to be fair enough i guess.

 

Damn that's a lot of work. I know for sure I would have just scrapped that hatchback and got another.

 

Not worried with the work ..... but worried for the engine

 

Nice! I am i the process of restoring a 92 Si HB. It wasn't near as bad as this.

Good thing you have a donor car...not sure how hard/easy it would be to get parts in what looks like Iraq.

 

With all of the dust and dirt in the pan, and the area where you live being very much dirt covered, I believe you will find the piston rings have damaged the cylinder walls. The crank is probably scortched as well. I believe you will have to hunt for another engine

 

Well i hope that the engine stayed ok , yeah its a place full of dust in the middle of the desert. Hatchbacks are very rare here so that is the reason i am not scrapping it .......... Looking forward to get the engine kick in.......

The issue with the engine is it was seized and it was not even rotating with the breaker bar ....... i used WD40 and filled the cylinder wall and let it soak for 3 days .... somehow i got the engine rotating but there is a point during rotating at which engine takes some force ...... I tried to tow the car on 4th gear
initially it was jerking ..... then it got smooth ....... but when i crank it .... same thing it stucks on the same position ..... I guess i have to tow the car at least 2 3 miles with 30 to 50 miles / hr so the piston could be set free and the oil could circulate the engine...... once its easily rotational then i shall
crank the engine back again...

[QUOTE=chrysler kid;51951050]With all of the dust and dirt in the pan, and the area where you live being very much dirt covered, I believe you will find the piston rings have damaged the cylinder walls. The crank is probably scortched as well. I believe you will have to hunt for another engine[/QUO

 

Yeah. I would still disassemble the engine, at the very minimum you need to re coat the main crank bearings, but at that point your should just replace them

Here is an awesome rebuild thread with everything you need to know

See this as an opportunity to make a name for yourself. You mention mechanics being dishonest in your area, make your name as the honda expert, do a little more

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...tures-3051143/

 

Thanks mate, really appreciate it ..... i will do the final push to get the rotation smooth other wise i will dumb this engine and go for d16 non vtech which is much cheaper to put in and saves my time as its sitting next door. The only reason why i am after
carby d15b3 is the plug and play wiring harness which is at my disposal..

 

Ended up buying this ek for using its motor and stuff in eg for only $ 150

 

Heavy stuff, mang.

 

I am a bit confused now ... I have an eg main harness from Lxi carby ......

I wanted to swap obd2a ek civic engine harness along with engine.....

How to rectofit both these harness .... confused now

 

Thats a complicated task, as we don't know what part of the obd2a system you want to retrofit into the eg civic. If you're going to say everything then you need to use the entire 0bd2a civic harness. That means the firewall, floor, engine bay and engine harness.

 

Maybe put the intake manifold ,carb and distributor from the carby on the d16? Might have to put the d15 crank phaser on the d16 motor.

I'm not sure though, the united states never had a carbed 92-95 civic. Ive heard that the carby setup is completely different than the fuel injected car. That the engine and interior harness need to be changed out entirely, the whole car needs to be rewired because the carb setup does not have a typical fuel pump in the tank.

 

Trying to just rewire everything will be more of a nightmare than just swapping the wiring over from the EK to this car.