I just bought a 94 hatch with b16a2 swap. It was hunting idle pretty bad when I bought it, so I checked for vacuum leaks and replaced the tps since I have a new one lying around. Before replacing the tps, I was messing with the old one and was able to get the hunting to stop (I did smack my iacv a couple times but idle didn't change when doing so). After I got the hunting idle to settle it started having an issue starting. It turns over and starts but idle drops until it dies and sometimes pressing gas doesn't affect it. I plugged up the new tps and calibrated it but I'm still getting all the same issues. Including sputtering occasionally and not making power during acceleration. It's plugged up to a p30 ecu and I'm not really sure what's going on. On the verge to taking it to a shop but I'm on a tight budget and dont want to just throw parts at it and end up in the same position. Any help is appreciated as I'm new to all of this and still learning.

 

check tps with voltmeter again.
mine just drifted out of spec again since it wasnt torqued down hard enough
and did a lot of the same stuff.
screws and allen bolts wont cut it as it's
too hard to tighten enough.
get the 8mm bolts if you haven't and crank em hard.
also look into ignition switch it might be coated in carbon gunk:

https://www.team-integra.net/forum/1...-cleaning.html

 

I'll run another volt test on it again and wrench it down a little but I made sure she was snug. I guess I was also wanting to know could it be fuel delivery? It has a new "looking" filter. And pump cover was off when I bought it. And I don't think it was ignition cud I tested all my ignition wires

 

Post the CEL codes.

You likely bought somebody's failed swap attempt.

 

I don't have a reader, and cel isn't on at all. Should I get a diagnostic and post an update? Also thinking about cleaning iacv valve and seeing if that does anything.

 

Still .48 at tps

 

Does the CEL work? Has the bulb been removed or disabled? It's a common trick used by unscrupulous sellers to hide problems.

You can't connect an OBD2 code reader to an OBD1 ECU. You instead short the service connector and then watch the CEL blink codes.

 

It does work, flashes like usual when turning the key over. But as far as shorting it ill try it and update with codes

 

Do you mean the CEL turns on for 2 seconds and then turns off and stays off? Or does it turn on while you are driving?

Does the car clock hold time after turning off the car? Are set radio stations retained?

But definitely check for codes stored in the ECU.

 

Clock is deleted and radio is ripped out. Cel turns on for the normal 2 seconds when starting and stays off, but I know it works because of that. Never seen it flash while driving or messing with stuff

 

Check whether the 7.5A Back UP fuse under the hood is blown. The ECU memory won't store CEL codes unless this fuse is working and the wire is attached to the ECU.

 

Will do

 

You can also unplug a sensor to check whether the CEL turns on and stays on and whether the code is stored after turning the car off for 5 minutes.

If all is fine with the CEL and ECU, check the cam timing. It may be off by a tooth.

 

Kinda what I was thinking. Would have to take it in to check timing. Will check codes when I get home, clean iacv, but if don't figure it out or it is timing she'll have to go in. I'll keep updating. Thanks again

 

Also not sure if this helps but vtec isn't kicking until 6k. Maybe has something to do with timing if it was off? Idk

 

To check the cam timing, remove the valve cover and upper timing belt cover. Turn the crank pulley counterclockwise until the cams at at TDC1. Then check whether the crank pulley is also at TDC1. If it is not or if the cam pulleys are not perfectly aligned, then the cam timing is off.

 

Okay thanks for the help. I'm gonna run volt tests from tps to ecu, check codes, clean iacv and if If nothing cam timing. Thanks again, it's getting late so I won't have updates until tomorrow

 

So I went and checked for codes and jumped the cel, but when I did it it didn't flash at all, but held solid. I know my 7.5 is good cus i just checked all my fuses. Did i somehow do it wrong? i also smacked my iacv before cold starting it and it actually started up first try. Also seemed to slightly surge idle when I played with headlights but it wasn't conclusive enough to say it defiantly was. Part of me is leaning toward iacv.

 

No, solid with the service connector in means no codes and ECU is in service mode. Used for setting ignition timing.

 

The fuse could be good but power does not reach the ECU. Unplug the IAT to see if you get a code that remains stored after turning the key off for 5 minutes. If so, all is good there.

 

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