Ok here goes, 2000 Honda Accord 2.3L 120k used engine took to head off and have a valve job done because I wanted to make sure the valve seals was good. New VTEC valve, new timing belt, new oil pump, new water pump, new balance shaft belt, new spark plugs, new plug wires and rotor with cap, and lastly new fuel pump because the sending unit was bad on the old pump. Ok now here is the problem, Car starts great runs smooth at idle, but when I try to give it gas it trys to die. I can baby it and it will get up t about 1.5k and that's all, any more I will act as if going to die or die. Will start right back up easy. I checked the fuel pressure about 65 psi, checked the timing marks again and they are right, Checked the firing order its right. checked the compression its good less then 1% off between them about 124 to 125 psi. Checked the Valve the intake are set at 0.010 and exhaust at 0.012. No codes yet I have ran he car on and off for 1.5 hours

 

How about the cam/crank sensors..?

 

Thank you! They are good I even reused the ones off the old engine after I came to starting with this problem. Thinking maybe this was the problem. Will list more and all I have done to it and tested so far. But again Thank you!

 

I cut it loose at the Cat forgot to list that in the things I had done. It didn't change how she acted. After I tested the spark, I have two types of spark testers. One that looks like a spark plug and clips to ground was a clear blue spark. The other one plugs in to the plug wire and then to the plug and you put the plug on the ground or can leave it in the engine. I use a clip to connect it to ground then i can see the spark also was clear blue. As for the fuel I cleaned out the tank and used 91% alcohol to wash it out, then took dried compressed air to blow it out. After I added 10 gals of new 92 octane fuel. The plugs are NGK platinum plugs and the wires are also NGK. I also checked the spray of the injectors, was a even spray no leaking or dipping. Then I tested the ohms value all 4 was between 11.9 and 12.1 ohms. I cleaned out the tank and put a new fuel pump and filter on the car. There was no trash in the tank after i cleaned it out and i even blew the line to the fuel rail out with 91% alcohol and dried compressed air same as the fuel tank! The car did not sit long maybe 30 days or so but was low on fuel 1/4 tank. The car before my little girl let her boyfriend drive it when she was at work had only 85k on it after he drove it she called me and said her car was making odd sounds and i went to her job and it was a rod knocking! I am running out of hair! LOL

 

I tested the fuel volume I got about 6 to 8 ozs before the fuel pump cut off. Running at idle I have 63 to 65 psi and 62 to 63 psi at 1500 rpm. Tested my pressure regalater seems good? Had a friend helping me. pulled the plugs they look new. Touched the exhaust each piston all was hot. some reason i am running 12 degrees base timing. Based off the computer I linked to it no not a scanner.

 

The injectors are not old I just had them rebuilt. As I was waiting the head to be fixed. Both the rebuilt and old injectors tested of the same value near about. Running out of hair! LOL

 

With the regulator vac hose disconnected/clamped, you should see 47-54Psi.
Verify that your return line is not pinched or clogged.
With the regulator vac hose connected, you should see 38-46Psi.

Timing should be verified with a timing light. TDC is the white mark, base timing will be the red mark.

 

With the regulator vac hose disconnected/clamped, you should see 47-54Psi.to run
Verify that your return line is not pinched or clogged.
With the regulator vac hose connected, you should see 38-46Psi.

Timing should be verified with a timing light. TDC is the white mark, base timing will be the red mark

Hello MAD, The psi reading I speak of is on the line side ahead of the fuel rail. I got it run shorty at 3k then once let off it back to the 1.5k or less. Rechecked the compression with the starter this time as to by hand I have about 165 to 168 psi on al 4. I open the tb has a strong intake pull will suck your hand to it and die heehe. but will start right back up. I have ran it a few hours and no codes. am stating to wonder if there is a problem with the new timing belt? or maybe the new vtec valve? anyway Thank you for your time and help Sir.

 

Recheck your hose connections at the tank and again in the engine bay.
Verify the Vent/EVAP and fuel return lines are not mixed up, this may cause some tank pressure issues that would cause the higher than expected fuel pressure.
Have you tried running the car with the fuel cap off? This would relieve pressure in the tank if the EVAP was malfunctioning.
If you can easily get to the EVAP cannister, verify it does not have fuel in it.