please help
heres a problem im haveing i blew my water pump it cut my timing belts and no i didnt bend valves which is one in a million considering its a no interference moter got real lucky so i replaced bothe belts the pump and did the timing and no codes poped up it was running rough so took to a shop and they said everything checks out perfect my compression check red cyl 1 is 195 num 2 is 170 3 is 185 and 4 is 195
which is decent and would not effect anything now when i am driving it feels like its surging out or somthing they said my cooling fan runs non stop which i guess is bad for altanator cause it sucks 25 amps constantly so you have any ideas iac valve is good throttle and evrything attached was checked except egr valve i just put ngk plugs with high output perfomance wires new distributer new VALVE COVER newer battery
any ideas
which is decent and would not effect anything now when i am driving it feels like its surging out or somthing they said my cooling fan runs non stop which i guess is bad for altanator cause it sucks 25 amps constantly so you have any ideas iac valve is good throttle and evrything attached was checked except egr valve i just put ngk plugs with high output perfomance wires new distributer new VALVE COVER newer battery
any ideas
its a 91 accord ex 2.2 and yes everything was done right then we took it to shop and they checked everything and did my gasket free i gave part and then they did the compression check listed above and they gave me notes saying moter mounts are bad cause its a vibration thing and the moter sags a little so ill do that and they said my cooling fan runs non stop but i dont know whether to replace fan switch or the other sensor cause i guess theres two
Well, the info about the mounts would have helped in the begining.
As far as the fan, is this both running all the time or just the cooling fan (right/pass side) running when key is on or car running? If it is just this one, I'd start with testing the relay.
As far as the fan, is this both running all the time or just the cooling fan (right/pass side) running when key is on or car running? If it is just this one, I'd start with testing the relay.
ok wow read the post before you reply is a waste of time it is only the cooling fan which is suppose to come on and off as needed are you even a mechanic cause with the short replys and not really answering makes you look slow
not to sure about your lil freind but theres only two things the therastat is bad or the fan switch dont take a ****ing geniouse just wanted to get a quick answer but i tested it its fan switch 15 doller fix hondas are easy try working on other cars
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I wonder how he sits with that in there???
Plus, if it is Thermo A/Coolant Switch A (or that is his guess anyway)....he has more than a switch issue but doesn't even know it
priceless......
Plus, if it is Thermo A/Coolant Switch A (or that is his guess anyway)....he has more than a switch issue but doesn't even know it
priceless......
just found out its a fan switch that was stuck just replaced it and it fixed everything thanks for nothing guys nest time you guys say your mech. try reading the whole post then replying with what you think it is or and ideas thank you
Which switch did you replace...and btw, I did suggest testing the relay but you didn't bother to read that did you......
There are two that control fan operation, again another reason to be SURE which ONE of the fans was running.
So did you replace on the t-stat (lower hose) or did you replace the one on the upper hose....and A@@hole, I'm asking this because IT MATTERS. If it is the one I think, YOU have more issues and don't even know it............
There are two that control fan operation, again another reason to be SURE which ONE of the fans was running.
So did you replace on the t-stat (lower hose) or did you replace the one on the upper hose....and A@@hole, I'm asking this because IT MATTERS. If it is the one I think, YOU have more issues and don't even know it............
anyways that was a bad day the shop said MY COOLING FAN runs non stop and the one of the two green plugs were bad well while looking at everything cause i thaught there was a bad motter mount in the rear i looked at the first one you see on the left side if looking at the moter and notced the yellow wire was completly cut in half so im going to replace the pluge part to see if that fixes it i have no codes i thought it would throw one ive driven 400 miles and still no codes but i have to fix that cord
Yes, if there is a wire broken, fix it. I can only use factory wire colors so I have to assume this "yellow wire" is to the cooling fan (right/pass side of the car)..or as you call if left side looking at the motor, however when you are talking about left/right of cars you alway refer to them as if you are sitting in the car, ever heard of Left Hand Drive (LHD)...so yes, the cooling fan is on the right/pass side of the car, yet in your fist post this was the one running all the time.?????
The condenser fan is on the left/drivers side of the car.
Anyway, once you fix the wire. See if both fans then cycle when temp gets to the proper level on thermo a.
And since Honda's are really easy, let me inform you of this. For most gen Accords (def the 3rd, 4th and 5th gens----86 to 97), both cooling fans come on when thermo a detects temps above ~196* and the key is on, BOTH cooling fans come on when the ac is on (assuming you have a properly functioning ac system). Only ONE fan comes on when the key is off and thermo b detects a temp above ~224*....but you didn't bother to read the post I made about this.
I'm willing to help you if you are willing to be helped.
Ok sorry it takes me awhile to reply im replacing that wire and I will let u know asap if the fand are workin another ? Is wouldnt that wire cause check engine light to come on and the ac works great but for some reason wen I turn my heater on its warm but col if that makes sense so would the wire cause this or is that defanetly the thermastat needing replaced
In these, the ECU is only going to set/store a code if an emissons issue is found. So no, if the cooling fan is not working, no code will be set.
If you are getting some heat, well this gets fun. Is the gauge on the dash staying steady? If so, then you have a flow issue (clogged heater core, maybe or the cable is not not opening the valve all the way) or a blend door issue. On the hwy, watch the temp gauge, does it "seem" to go cold or hold at the normal level.
If you are getting some heat, well this gets fun. Is the gauge on the dash staying steady? If so, then you have a flow issue (clogged heater core, maybe or the cable is not not opening the valve all the way) or a blend door issue. On the hwy, watch the temp gauge, does it "seem" to go cold or hold at the normal level.
ok ill try and answer all the ? the temp gauge before i got a new plug never moved it always stayed perfectly still then i got a new one hard wired the two wires yellow and black cause the yellow was cut now it goes up and down which worries me about overheating and before i hardwired it the cooling fan didnt comeon after i shut the car off and now it does a thermastat might be an issue cause every now and then when its on heat its like it blows cold warm air make sense please let me know
Ok, well a thermostat and gasket are cheap, so if YOU think that is the issue go for it. Be sure to follow the proper bleeding procedure..Honda's do NOT like air in the cooling system.
Is there a way you can post pic's of these wires and their location......The temp gauge sending unit is a single wire connector under the dist.
Is there a way you can post pic's of these wires and their location......The temp gauge sending unit is a single wire connector under the dist.
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