So as most of you probably know by now, I have a 1998 ex sedan, that is a POS, but I love it. When I bought the car everything worked as it should, except to roll the passenger front window up/down the driver's door had to be shut. That's manageable right? Over time it got to the point where the passenger window would not roll up or down at all. No big deal. Then spring hit, I have no a/c so I needed it to work. One hot day with my finger pressed on the passenger window switch and my driver's door open I began to wiggle the harness that runs into the door jam of my driver's door and the window began working again. It worked for a while and quit again, so once again I opened my divers door and tried wiggling that harness. Instead of it working this time, it blew the fuse for my rear driver's side window, and the power door lock/sunroof fuse under the hood. I've taken my drivers door panel off to see if I could see a short somewhere, but no. Now it keeps blowing the sunroof/pwr door lock fuse under the hood and power window fuses. This is quite annoying and I have no idea even where to begin. I will say I've slammed my driver's door pretty hard a few times and that probably didn't help the issue, as a matter of fact that is what made the passenger window quit working all together to begin with. Could somebody point me in a general direction of what to start looking for or at least a diagram or something? It's annoying riding around with my door panel off and only 2 working windows. I'm at a complete loss here and looking at all these wires honestly kind of conFUSES me (no pun intended). Any help is very much appreciated!

 

You need to replace the wires in between the driver's door and the rest of the car. Every time the door is opened and closed they flex where they go across the hinge point, and the copper undergoes metal fatigue. The wires may even look OK on the outside but the copper is broken inside.

 

Is there a specific harness I can buy and replace, or is this a matter of splicing wires.. or replacing the whole wire? I imagine they all run directly to the fuse box?

 

It's a matter of finding the break in the wire and patching it up with some solder, etc. This is where the service manual comes in really handy as it has a set of troubleshooting steps to SPECIFICALLY address your problem. Better than any human on this forum can. That said, the issue you're having is a known issue with these Civics and metal fatigue in the wires.

 

Guess I'm going to finally break down and buy a repair manual then, I've needed it many times but have managed without it. It will certainly be worth it's weight in gold as I am constantly running into new issues with this car. Thanks for the replies.

One other thing I did forget to mention thought is the rear driver side door lock has just recently gotten stuck in the locked position and I can't manually unlock it, however I plan to remove that door panel as well and see what's going on in there as soon as I get the opportunity. Thanks again guys.

 

If I leave this link here, do you think you'd find it helpful? http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/do...hp?do=cat&id=3

 

Absolutely, I appreciate that. In order to download the pdms from here you must register with Honda hookup, which I did after I seen your message last night. In order to complete your profile they send you a link to your email and I've still yet to receive the email... But as soon as that comes in I'm great, will have all the info I need! Thanks again!!!!

 

Should be immediate. Check yur spam.

 

Nope. Not there either. There was a question on the registration to weed out spammers and computers, it was,"inline engines have all of their cylinders in one...". I answered, "line". Maybe I should have said,"row"? Idk if it's a computer running through the registries looking for a specific word for the answer. If so I could reregister using a different email. I apologize I'm having so many issues with this, I'll blame it on the fact that I'm not too tech savvy.