Hey so back story
Long story short
last two days my battery had kept dying. So I put a known working fully charged one in same thing happened.
Car wouldn’t turn over. All I hear is main relay and a click.
Jumped car Pulled the terminal off the running car and it died so I replaced my alternator today.
Car is definitely running better but my idle is fluctuating from 500 - 600 rpm. But it will NOT stall.
Im not sure what’s up

edit: I replaced IACV first with a known working one continues the same problem.
I couldn’t get the FITV off bc one bolt stripped so I didn’t get to clean that until I feel like taking TB off.

So at my last resort I decided to change the TPS because I knew I bought a cheap one(10$)but definitely didn’t expect it to last literally 1 week.
I was just curious as to maybe it went bad and it did lol.
Get what you pay for !!
It was good enough to get my swap running though. I just scavenged my OEM TPS from my single cam and just threw it on and my issue has been solved.

 

How is it running at 100 rpm??

 

Don’t know ?? It keeps fluctuating at the last line ever so slightly. +100 -100 rpm but won’t stall out ..

 

Last line is 500 before zero.

 

thanks for correcting me. Didn’t even realize it. So it’s idking 500 - 600 constantly fluctuating and shaking the car

 

Belt tension too tight? Did you adjust the idle screw? Maybe this alternator is robbing more hp than the other one, bogging it down

 

If it is an OBDII, any time you have disconnected the battery you have to let the ECU recalibrate. Start the engine from cold and let it sit and idle for 20 minutes. It should settle out.

On a modern car, do not test the alternator by disconnecting the battery while running. Use a voltmeter.

 

Issue solved after some trouble shooting.
It ended up being a faulty TPS sensor and NO CEL. I swapped in a old OEM one and problem went right away.

P.S
dont buy cheap sensors
thanks to the people who were trying to help

 

gj.