Hello everyone.
I'm sorry if there are another similar thread.I searched the forum but didn't find anything.

I have a problem!!!Who doesn't right? Anyway, the connecting water pipe that connects to the water pump is leaking very badly.There is this little tube at the end of the pipe and it looks like the water is running out of it and I mean running not dripping, it's a stream of water coming out.When I block it by putting my finger on the opening it seems to stop the running process but, after a few seconds it feels like drops still run down my finger.

I am on my way to start the disassembling to get a better view on what's happening and to check if the o-ring has anything to do with this.I just want to ask if any of you guys could have an idea of why the water might be running out of this little tube?

I have a 94 Honda Ballade (Civic) Luxline - Engine - 1.5L Carb (D15B3).

I have attached pictures of the pipe with red circles around the little pipe I'm talking about.The 1 picture is not from my car, its a photo a found on another thread.Please any advice or ideas will be appreciappreciated.
Thanks.



Not from my car.Just showing which little pipe I'm talking about.

 

If that is anything like the D15B7 and D16Z6, there is a coolant hose that runs from that nipple all the way to the IACV if my memory serves me correctly. Please see the photo's I just took off my D16Z6 motor for reference.

 

There's supposed to be a little hose on there-- going either to the oil heat exchanger or stuff on the intake. If your setup doesn't need it, put on a short piece of hose with a plug in the end.

 

Thanks so much for your replies guys, really appreciate.Tom I think my setup is a bit different from yours.Mk your plan could have worked perfectly, but the little pipe wasn't hollow like I originally though.
But I found the problem, it's just headaches all the way....... Luckily the disassembly only took me 30-45min thanks to this post-

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-pump-2305525/

And here it is,


Was relieved when I saw this thinking i can just clean the area and put some heat resistant silicon on there.Just as a temporary fix. UNTIL I disconnected it....

And found this.



This is that little tube where I thought the water was coming from.

Why doesn't my pipe have a tube in the middle or at one of the ends that's supposed to connect to a rubber pipe?

I have never had to work on anything from this side of the engine before.And since I've owned this car never had to remove something on this side.Please excuse the dirt.As you can see the previous owner made sure this pipe won't leak for awhile.Look at all the silicon at the other end.

 

I found a sensor at the back of the engine (Will upload a photo during the day).It sits underneath around the middle area of the connecting pipe and there is no wire connected to it.
Can you guys please tell me what this sensor is for?
And another thing, my heat gauge stopped working awile back and in turn made the radiator fan to not kick in when necessary.Do you know what the cause of this might be?
I did put a switch on the fan to start it manually, but until today the heat gauge isn't working.

 

The sensor screwed into the engine block directly above the oil filter is for the oil pressure light. Above the alternator may be found a knock sensor, that is not used in all models.

The fan is controlled by the thermal switch on the thermostat housing, the part you have in your hand. The gauge is controlled by a sensor screwed into the head below the distributor, the one toward the back of the engine that has one wire. These two systems are completely independent. In other words the gauge not working doesn't mean the fan won't work.

The fan switch depends on coolant flowing through the radiator to heat it up and trip the fan on. If enough coolant has leaked out the engine can overheat without the fan coming on.

 

You wouldn't have the same coolant lines as the fuel injected variants. You said you have a Carb. It's going to be plumbed different.

Personally I suspected a bad seal of the full water pipe into the block but was taking your lead that the small alleged tubed was leaking, not the main water pipe itself.

 

wow, so much rust...

 

Thanks for the input guys.Yes tom I have the carb model.

Mk that's a great description of the information I needed thanks man.

So if my radiator fan don't kick in I need to check thermostat located in the thermostat housing?

I have tried fixing the heat gauge previously but couldn't get it working, I tried grounding and put power on the wire that connects to the heat gauges sensor (the one by the distributor) but, the gauge didn't respond either way.

Do any of you by any chance have a wiring diagram of all these sensors PLEASE!That will be a huge help.Or if you can tell me what colour wire connects to which sensor and comes from where. Especially the oil sensor at this moment cause I don't even see a loose wire in that area.
Which other D15B series is similar to the D15B3 if I'm looking on Google for some diagrams and stuff?Cause there ain't a lot on the D15B3 out there.

Thanks again for your help and time guys I'm truly grateful for all your input.

 

Tony I said exactly the same thing when I removed that pipe.Do you guys know what I can do to clean the coolant system from all that rust?

 

parts store should have a flush chemical. Best look at that and never use plain jane water again

 

I would think the D15B2 and D15B7 would be similar to your D15B3, however, they are fuel injected models while your D15B3 is carb.

The carb changes things significantly.
I can provide you Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM) pages for the D15B7/D15Z1/D16Z6 model cars but please keep in mind this is the 92-95 fuel injected engines manual and things might not be exactly the same.
I do think the oil pressure sensor, the temp gauge sensor, Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor and the fan thermo switch should be the same though.

Where I think it will be different is in the various cooling lines.
I tend to doubt there is an Intake Air Control Valve (IACV) on the carb model, as such wouldn't use the same cooling line to and from.
This would also explain why your water pipe didn't have a nipple just a solid stud in that location where you thought it was leaking.

I will see if I remember about this by the time I get home tonight and I will take pictures of the relevant pages of my ETM.

 

Thanks so much Tom I'll really appreciate it if you can help me with those wire diagrams you mention.And your absolutely correct I don't have the IACV, but the sensors you mention should be the same and I agree the wiring should also correspond.

So the good news is the new pipe is in and other than 1 rubber pipe that leaked due to a crack that formed from reassembling everything, all is well on the coolant side again.
I even got my oil pressure sensor working again after a bit of Google searching and finding the correct wire that goes to the sensor.The light also comes on now in the dash cluster.Boy it feels so good to get something working that never worked since I got the car.The cluster even looks weird now with that light before the engine is started.
BUT..... and here comes the problems again.
The exhaust even sounds better now not sure it's cause the intake mani got a new gasket and seals nicely again.But when I drive the car and it reaches 3k on the rev counter it's like the gas cable gets stuck and the car starts to rev high even when my foot is off the pedal.....What can be the cause of this??? This didn't happen previously.

And then I tried to follow mk's input on the radiator fan working from the thermostat that he showed me in the previous post.I tried to check if something was off with the wiring going to the fan, so I connected a wire on the battery positive and on the green wire going to the thermostat.....The fan starts running, ok cool.So I finished replacing the leaking pipe and the harness got wet during this time, afterwards I tried testing the green wire at the connector block just before all the wires goes into the car fuse box.Nothing....
So I go back to the thermostat connector and when I connect the live wire to the green it starts sparking as if it's making a short.... I thought what the hell is going on now.So I just leave it be and thought I'll ask you guys for advice.

What can be the cause of this 2 problems?
Please help me out on this one.I have no idea where to start looking.

 

I have the ETM for the Carb'd motor, but it's in Japanese. So not much help.

The European service manuals are on the Internet just waiting to be downloaded by you, however. They may be of use.

 

Hi deschlong.Do you maybe have a website where I can find the manual please mate.

 

We're not supposed to provide links, but if you googled Honda Hookup and looked for a bunch of files with the names like "Honda Civic 1992 (EG3 / EG4 / EG5 / EG6 / EG7 / EG8 / EG9 / EH1 / EH2 / EH3 / EH4 / EH5 / EH8 / EH9)" ..... I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Those books are for the EDM versions of the Civics.

 

That is the worst rot out of a water pipe that I have ever seen... holy cow.

 

As usual, I forgot by the time I got home yesterday and get reminded when I revisit at bed time today......

 

First 2 is the Engine Tempurature for the Guage 1 wire




Next one is the oil pressure sending unit also 1 wire.



Next one is the Radiator thermal switch (found on the thermostat housing) that should be a 2 wire if I recall.



The next two are the ECT that goes to the ECU so the ECU knows what temp the engine is for operations, should be a two wire sensor.




Keep in mind, this is for the Fuel Injected USDM/CDM models so may not be exactly what you see. But might be dead on too, you will know when you start poking around.
Sorry it took so long, I tend to forget about these things after my 1-1.5 hour commute home.

 

I didn't know it was this bad cause I flush my radiator on a regular basis.I think it came from the previous owner aswell.I have to say ut was pretty bad.

 

Hi guys sorry I've been so quite.So I have good news.
Everything is working great again.

Thanks so much for those pictures @TomCat39 , I'm very grateful for all your help.And thanks to everyone else as well you guys are all amazing and I couldn't have fixed this without you.

Thanks for the info of the website aswell @deschlong .

Why did they take away the quickpost feature?

God bless you all and thanks again for everything.

 

@TomCat39 those photos are clear as day.The last 2 I don't have.No ECU in my car but, the top 3 was dead on like you said.

THANKS a million mate.Very grateful.