Hello, I own a 1992 cx hatch with the manual rack and pinion. i am planning on keeping the manual steering and would like input on my proposed options from anyone with firsthand experience.
Options:
Depowered integra rack
Rebuilt stock cx rack
Quiafe quick ratio kit

Thank you for any input and help

 

Why not get a brand new OEM replacement one? They are about the same cost as a reman, especially if you don't care to ship a core to return.

I went with the AAE one on my CRX, it was definitely worthwhile.


https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/19...ring_rack.html

 

The depowered integra rack will give you a slightly larger turning radius, but with our tiny cars not that Noticeable. If you go this route make sure to cut the piston seal out inside the rack,it will turn much smoother, like a proper manual rack. Also, you will want to weld the pinion shaft or you willhave a little clunck and a bit loose at center. If you want quick and easy but more expensive, the quiafe is a great choice, i’m considerng going back to the manual rack with quiafe quick ratio.

 

Thank you for your input, what do you mean by weld the pinion shaft? Ive seen the guide for taking out the piston seal but dont recall what you are mentioning.

 

I saw some guides on that, but I don’t recall the welding part either.

What’s up BiggieBert? Can you throw us a bone here?

 

https://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-...ezz-way-2.html Start at post number 39.

 

Whats wrong with your manual rack? Not much happening inside the manual rack to rebuild unless the top seal went, water got inside and pitted the shaft and follower.

 

I personally believe the quiafe rack is a waste of money,

 

I have the de-powered Integra rack in my 94 VX. I didn't notice much of a difference in steering ratio but the turning radius reduction was noticeable when doing U-turns. It's best to throw the Integra sub-frame in with it as the mounting bushing are is different between the subframes, Integra rack in a Civic subframe you will have to cut up a rack bushing and maybe throw some 1/8" rubber between the rack and subframe because it accepts a D shaped bushing instead of an O shaped bushing. I didn't remove the piston seal on mine, just brazed some fittings closed and some tubing on the fittings on the body to connect them together so it doesn't build pressure inside the rack.

If someone made a 1.25:1 steering quickener I'd rather use that in conjunction with a stock rack. But as far as I know there's just 1.5:1 and 2:1 out on the market which would probably be a handful.

 

Mind telling me why?

 

It needs the outside powerwashed, Ill clean and lube the pinion bearing, lube the rack, install a new rack end bushing, poly rack mounts and pinion dust seal and tighten the rack guide for a rebuild. I have a lot of play even with new inner and outers.

 

I recently installed a looped Integra rack and subframe into my 92 CX. Personally, I love the quicker ratio, and the whole thing cost me $70 from the pull and save. I can't speak on differences with or without the piston seal. I still have mine in because I plan to install the MR2 pump this winter.

 

Soooo..... what's the benefit to having manual steering? (sorry for the noob question)

 

Benefit? It removes the parasitic drag from your motor, freeing up an hp or two. Otherwise, it’s about preference really (for me, anyway).

 

A big reason for me to delete mine when I did my B18C1 swap was that I didn’t care to have it to maintain.