Hello all... I have been searching for days and have had no luck answering my question. I pray someone is still around here that might know. I desperately need the Del back in service due to my daily driver getting totaled. I have been fighting through the issues.

The car is a 93 DelSol 1.6L Vtec manual. It was parked due to a lack of being able to pass emissions, too low to align and a spouse who refused to part with $ to fix. Fast forward... spouse is gone and car is old enough to be emissions exempt. I have been fixed all the crap that was wrong and keep hitting walls. AKA discontinued parts.

My most pressing issue & questions I need advice on... Noted further below number 7 on list of history... Lower list is not necessarily relevant, but needed to vent. LOL!
Question 1. My FITV coolant line snapped off. Mine is a 16500-P28-A00 and it is DISCONTINUED. No part stores sell it. I looked on ebay. All I can find is 16500-P06-A00. They look identical in pics. The ebay vendors say the part is for a Civic 1.5L or 1.6L D16Z6 Vtec motor. I research and find there might be a difference between ones for a manual or auto car... or that the bolt pattern on the TB might be different. But seriously was the DelSol that much of a one off? Does anyone know if this alternate part number will work?

Question 2. I guess worst case... I live in Georgia and mine is a manual, so I could conceivably delete the FITV in a pinch? My issue then is verifying the routing for the coolant. I might as well delete the coolant lines off the IACV as well, since the FITV is directly in line with them. I know if you have an auto a FITV delete is not recommended.
So if I bypass the coolant line on the FITV & IACV... will the coolant line that connects to the FITV (where mine broke) basically just need to be routed back to the passenger side port on the metal coolant tube that runs under the intake runners? Is it just that direct to bypass the FITV & IACV coolant route on a D16Z6? Everything runs under the intake and is impossible to see with the motor in the car. Everyone explains round about in my searches, but such old threads with pictures deleted leave me questioning.

History building up to the issue and question at hand if you car to read. First off car was bought used and had some issues...
1. First I got my camber kits on (frt/ rear) and got it ready to be aligned. Previous owner had lower it with racing springs and the camber was so extreme it was eating tires.
2. Then fuel pump would not prime. Researched & tested everything. Problem... bad ECM... 37820-P28-A01 DISCONTINUED. No parts stores sell. Took weeks finally re manufactured one on Ebay. Car runs.
3. Drove 1 mile to alignment shop. Brake light on & brakes making horrible scrapping noises. Brakes were done prior to parking... pads should be fine. Check & fluid low. I check around and find the prop valve blown. DISCONTINUED. No parts store sells. I rebuild it. Weeks later I find & buy spare on ebay. Just like mine...a 17/25 for a disc brake rear 93 delsol
4. Shop could not align rear toe... busted bushing on adjuster ends. Next weekend and with the help of a sawzall... car now has adjustable rear toelinks.
5. Decide to get it ready for realignment, but car has bad idle. Coolant low from sitting? I top off and bleed. Heater rocking. All seems well.
6. Surging returns, but only once car has warmed up to operating temps. I research again. I clean the IACV.
7. Still surging again... only once car has warmed up. I check the FITV as it is supposed to make its adjustment once the car warms up... the coolant line on the tail is bulging and has crusty bits on it. Hmmm maybe this was why the coolant was low. Previous owner did replace the radiator...maybe it was gunked up and gunked up the fitv. I pull off the FITV. I have to cut the coolant line off. I clean and adjust the valve just like all the videos show. I go to clean the coolant line and can't remove the screws. The screws are seized and broke my manual impact tool, so I decide to clean it as best I can, just spraying it out via the coolant line. I brush the corrosion off the outside. I go to clean the inside of the line with a dental pick and the outlet snaps off. I used the pick so gentle. The metal was so fatigued due to the coolant issue the PO had. So I go to buy the part. DISCONTINUED... again... 3 for 3. UGH!!!! I have confirmed in researching that the wax pellet fails over time, but definitely will fail if dirt and debris gets blocked up in there and coolant can't flow as mine had. So I found my only when car warmed up surging idle issue... but how to fix when I have a part I can not replace? I would simply tap the housing to replace the coolant line, but that does not get me inside to clean up the debris. UGH!

 

The FITV sits fully closed unless the coolant temperature is less than 60 F, so deleting it in a mild climate is no problem. Make a blank plate out of thin metal and place it between the valve and the gasket. Then reroute the coolant hoses to bypass it. Flowing coolant through the IACV is also only an issue in very cold weather, so a lot of people bypass that coolant as well and just have a simple hose between the outlet on the manifold and the return to the water pipe on the back of the engine.

 

 

OP, have you dis-assembled the FITV and tried to repair it ??? They unscrew themselves often and create an uncontrolled vacuum leak. I suggest you take the end cap off and see if you can screw it back together. If the shaft inside is bent or broken, you will have to replace it. Then you only option is to explore your local salvage yards to find something that will work. Even if the water inlet/outlet ports are different, the internal parts can be interchangeable, and thus can be used to repair/replace the one you have now. Good luck.

 

Would you believe I only just received an email... all this time later. Well time to update.

I did exactly this, since I live in GA and the car is garage kept... I got a some aluminum flat bar in 2in width from Home Depot and used the FITV to get a rough idea of size and hole placement. I was darn close the first shot with my holes, but needed to open them up a bit for a perfect fit. I also had some left over sheet gasket material that I cut to match the plate. Picked up some shorter grade 8 bolts at HD and was good to go. Once I get some miles on the car and know all is well, I will trim the plate for a cleaner fit. That or order the polished one I found on Amazon.

I had a heck of a time finding the correct bypass coolant routing with so many old pics gone, but I took an educated guess. This is what I did, in case someone stumbles on this with the same curiosity. I fully removed the line from under the TB to the passenger side IAC port. The drivers side IAC port has the coolant line that is the longest. It runs back under the intake to the metal coolant line under the intake manifold runners and connects to the driver's side most port. I disconnected it at the IAC and rerouted it parallel to the metal coolant line. It was a perfect length to reach and mate to the loose coolant line I removed from the FITV. I used a 3/8 bard with hose clamps and it worked... leak free. If it holds and performs well, I will completely remove the FITV portion and connect the IAC line to its original port off the engine. I need to get a better set of pliers to be able to actually reach the factory hose clamp. UGH!

 

Yep, my plan 2... After being in my wreck, my knees are a mess. I have been waiting to feel better to go hit up the yards and look for other to cannibalize. Glad to know if the holes match it will work... Whew!

The Surging was still there after I cleaned the IAC... it cleaned up really well. The O2 is new... Coolant system was burped 3 x... each time verifying at the bleeder that there was no air.

Good tip on how to verify what IACs will work. I will do that on my JY runs. A few good spares never hurt.

 

Yes i did the proper disassembly and cleaning... I ran the white plate all the way up and back down. If I had to lay odds... it was not loose. Check out the pics below and I think it will be clear the FITV was 100% to blame due to corrosion.





The previous owner really messed the car up. Now I'm playing damage control. Praying there is nothing else clogged. I planned to remove the end cap, but it was not coming off. I broke my manual impact tool trying. I will cut the heads off the screws, when I get a junkyard one to swap tail ends with.

Check out how the coolant line was bulging at the connection point to the FITV. My bet is zero coolant was flowing thru the FITV. It was inop due to lack of flow. Stuck open.




I attempted to use a pick to clean the port out... even being extremely gentle... the port snapped as I tried to flick out the gunk with a dental pick. Its not clogged now... LOL! But the coolant line can't hook up to it. UGH!




I will get a new end cap at the junkyard and swap it over so I have some option if I need the FITV again! What a mess!

 

Thank you for all the replies. It is good to know I was thinking everything exactly in line with your suggestions. You guys rock! Sorry for splitting my replies instead of simply answering in one. The computer I am on is a pain to work with and I was afraid it would not allow the multi quote. It won't post when I use that option on other sites.

Oh and I almost forgot. The car so far runs perfect with the block off and coolant lines bypassed. I will report back after some daily driving!

 

good ****. Yeah the ecu doesn't look for the FITV so you can block it off.