Hey guys, I've been looking into some of the booster eliminator kits out there and my currently plans are to have GSR front and rear brakes but wanted to know your opinions on the various kits out there. Took a look at Chase Bays kit that eliminates the factory proporitioning value and moves it inside the cabin by the driver. Any thoughts on their kits relative to others out there like finishing lines, etc. Personally I like the kits that run a short line into the area between the engine bay and firewall so was looking into something of that nature. Maybe you guys can chime in on piecing together a kit using various sites which might be more cost effective then going with the CB kits which retails for like $450, just curious what you guys thought and routes you took. Much appreciated!

 

Hmmm, guess not too many peeps with this set up. I was very curious on experiences with the Bias valve which allows you to adjust more pressure where needed. Well very interested in Chase Bays product so I'll most likely go ahead and make the purchase and then maybe do a write up in the future on my experience.

 

Here is a link at the set up I was referring to. https://www.chasebays.com/collection...bbe-ininterior

 

I am running a hush performance booster eliminator and i made all of my own hard lines. it was the simplest and cheapest option. I also own a hydraulic flaring tool and the brake line so that makes it alot easier as well.

 

how much would you say you spent to do it all yourself, curious....including the flaring tool

 

Honed Developments sells a booster delete that changes the pedal ratio and retains a stock dual circuit master cylinder. Should improve performance AND look cool doing it, if you’re interested in building something besides a show or drag car. It’s the best option out there, imo.

https://honeddevelopments.com/

 

We cant count the flaring tool because i had it previously. It was not purchased just for this job. (they are not cheap). Between line and fittings i probably have 80-90$. The reason i went this way is because most of the tuck kits ive seen have the 37 degree flares and being the car factory has inverted and i already bought stop tech stainless lines for the fender wells, i just stayed at the stock flare. Made things easier for me. Plus i could then route the lines where i wanted. its not the cleanest job, but its functional.