1995 CD7 Distributor issues.
First of all, Allow me to introduce myself. My name is Adam and I am from the wonderful state of Wyoming. I have purchased my first (hopefully of many) Honda. She is a 1995 Accord CD7 the body is repainted and it has some other misc body work and suspension work done to it. The engine is almost stock other than an AEM Intake which I purchased to replace the stock one because the old one broke.
I had the car in my Auto Tech class where I was doing some various work to it, the slave cylinder went bad that morning so I stopped in to fix it. I did some other work to it during the two weeks that it was stuck in the shop due to snow but for the most part nothing changed. I went to start it and it took a strangely long time to start. Which I figured was just from the car not being driven in a while. Upon a test drive the car refused to rev over 2K RPM and would backfire like nobody's business. I ended up limping it home that day (5 min drive). The car died several times but managed to make it home alright. Upon talking to a one of my friends who is a service tech at a Mazda dealership, he suggested I should replace the Dizzy Cap and Rotor, which I promptly replaced later that day after replacing the spark plugs (pre gapped) in the parking lot of my High School. The car starts normally now, however it now refuses to go above 4k RPM and is practically useless in anything other than second gear. My father spoke to a local mechanic who said that my symptoms perfectly match those of a failed cranksaft position sensor. I ordered a part which said it would fit my Accord. However, upon further research I discovered that the Honda Accord (Pre OBD-II) does not have a Crank. Pos. Sensor. It instead has a TDC Sensor which is located inside of the dizzy housing. I spoke to a Honda Tech. who said that I should replace the whole housing. Rather than purchasing a new one would it be worthwhile to pull one from a scrap yard or is this 100% my issue. If it helps any the Ignition Distributor has been leaking a good ammount of oil for a while now and I have been meaning to rebuild it. Anyways, what would you do if you were me and why. I look forward to reading your responses. Cheers.
I had the car in my Auto Tech class where I was doing some various work to it, the slave cylinder went bad that morning so I stopped in to fix it. I did some other work to it during the two weeks that it was stuck in the shop due to snow but for the most part nothing changed. I went to start it and it took a strangely long time to start. Which I figured was just from the car not being driven in a while. Upon a test drive the car refused to rev over 2K RPM and would backfire like nobody's business. I ended up limping it home that day (5 min drive). The car died several times but managed to make it home alright. Upon talking to a one of my friends who is a service tech at a Mazda dealership, he suggested I should replace the Dizzy Cap and Rotor, which I promptly replaced later that day after replacing the spark plugs (pre gapped) in the parking lot of my High School. The car starts normally now, however it now refuses to go above 4k RPM and is practically useless in anything other than second gear. My father spoke to a local mechanic who said that my symptoms perfectly match those of a failed cranksaft position sensor. I ordered a part which said it would fit my Accord. However, upon further research I discovered that the Honda Accord (Pre OBD-II) does not have a Crank. Pos. Sensor. It instead has a TDC Sensor which is located inside of the dizzy housing. I spoke to a Honda Tech. who said that I should replace the whole housing. Rather than purchasing a new one would it be worthwhile to pull one from a scrap yard or is this 100% my issue. If it helps any the Ignition Distributor has been leaking a good ammount of oil for a while now and I have been meaning to rebuild it. Anyways, what would you do if you were me and why. I look forward to reading your responses. Cheers.
The 94-95 CD5-7 Accords have three sensors inside the distributor housing. Top dead center (TDC), Crankshaft position (CKP), and Cylinder position (CYP) sensors will usually throw a code if there is something wrong with them.
Is the check engine light on?
Have you tried retrieving any stored codes from the ECU?
Surprised that you have talked to techs and non of them have mentioned scanning the ECU or testing these sensors vs just replacing them.
Is the check engine light on?
Have you tried retrieving any stored codes from the ECU?
Surprised that you have talked to techs and non of them have mentioned scanning the ECU or testing these sensors vs just replacing them.
The 94-95 CD5-7 Accords have three sensors inside the distributor housing. Top dead center (TDC), Crankshaft position (CKP), and Cylinder position (CYP) sensors will usually throw a code if there is something wrong with them.
Is the check engine light on?
Have you tried retrieving any stored codes from the ECU?
Surprised that you have talked to techs and non of them have mentioned scanning the ECU or testing these sensors vs just replacing them.
Is the check engine light on?
Have you tried retrieving any stored codes from the ECU?
Surprised that you have talked to techs and non of them have mentioned scanning the ECU or testing these sensors vs just replacing them.
If the harness ground is loose or broken, the circuits of the various sensors may backfeed into the other circuit in an attempt to complete the ground.
This can give erroneous outputs and fake/ghost problems that are not due to a component failure but due to a wiring issue.
Since the main harness ground is right where you would be working, I would inspect that first.
This can give erroneous outputs and fake/ghost problems that are not due to a component failure but due to a wiring issue.
Since the main harness ground is right where you would be working, I would inspect that first.
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