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Has anyone installed one and ran into similar issues? If I bolt the radius rods on then I cant get the strut fork in. If I bolt the strut fork in I can’t get the bolt holes in the radius arm to line up. I checked my forks and they are intact EF forks.
The spring/strut is bolted up. I just loosened the fork to LCA bolt so allow easier access to the radius arm bolts. The car is jacked up, I put a jack underneath the LCA and just to put some load on it but it only made the situation worse.
I spoke with innovative and someone had a similar issue but it was because he had quite a bit of negative camber. Not my case since those pictures are stock suspension (currently).
edit: the oem radius arms fit fine. I’m sure the other version of the innovative bar would fit fine too as it mimics the same shape/size of the oem bar. This is 1” thick x 1.5” wide by the bolting area on the LCA
from what I know these are EF/DA forks atleast. Someone correct me I’m wrong please. This isn’t to stir anything up either. I was honestly hoping either more folks had issues with these or i would just have a “duh” moment and I didn’t install them someone right even though it’s straight forward. I posted on 2 CRX group pages and some posted pictures but they aren’t this version of the traction bar, most haven’t tried installing them or 1 person has and sent me photos. He has plenty of clearance. Just not sure what’s up with mine. Dimensions match to what innovative gave me too.
Agreed, I only tightened these 2 bolts up for these current photos. My others were with them loose but if I install the fork to the LCA which isn’t an item I can have loose just by its design then I can’t even get the bolt holes On the radius rods to line up with the LCA. I got the go ahead to modify my arms and they will still cover me whenever they can get a CRX to experiment so I may start attacking my bars and messing with them more this weekend or so.
The end that bolts to the LCA is the issue not the end that bolts to the crossmember
Yea, but lenghtening it will move the arm into the correct position. How are the holes not lining up?
edit: That looks like nothing some leveraging and positioning with a jack cannot solve.
Try removing more components.
LCA to subframe
strut to shock tower
sway bar.
I have these issues all them time and that's how you get things back together. Then you get it aligned.
its aluminum.... just file off whats hitting or send it back.
precisey what I’m going to do actually. I’m going to extend the 90 degree clearance cut a little past the first bolt hole then take .100” off the angle by the second hole on both sides. After I do it I told innovatives I’d send them pictures and whatever dimensions I am at now. They didn’t want to send me another because it’s currently to dimensions of the print. They are working on getting a CRX in the shop to do some testing. I’ll update whatever I end up removing.
Great question that I can’t answer. I only did the driver side as I was doing other stuff too. I’ll try again on the passenger side with the oem arm for shifts and giggles and then swap to the slunk2 which is supposed to be oem arms.
Has anyone installed one and ran into similar issues? If I bolt the radius rods on then I cant get the strut fork in. If I bolt the strut fork in I can’t get the bolt holes in the radius arm to line up. I checked my forks and they are intact EF forks.
hi. I am currently having the same issue as you on fitting this traction bar. Did you or have you overcome this issue by any chance? I don't really want to grind anything
I helped a friend install this traction bar over the weekend and we had the same issue. I am not even confident that shaving the radius rod will fix the issue, the interference is pretty bad.