2000 v6 EX
150k

Right on schedule, the B7XA in our stalwart Accord v6 indicates imminent failure. Time for a new project. Yay...
I sure wish my neighbors were Hiram Gutierrez and Brian Buckner. Oh well.

Anyways...
The transmission removal procedure instruct the process using a lift, 'cause the transmission is lowered from beneath the vehicle.

I lack a lift.
I want a lift.
But a lift I ain't got.

Sooo...
Is it possible to remove the B7XA from above? Research turns up buttkiss on this notion.

After a lengthy 'hands-on-the-hips' ponderous gander into the engine compartment, I studied the prospects. Of course the battery whatnots, air plenum, and radiator hoses must come out (duh). I imagine that maybe the master cylinder, fuel and coolant lines might provide interference. And then there's the cross beam to support the engine sans transmission--I expect that would be a bugger to get past. My greatest fear is getting things loose only to discover that the transmission won't clear some... thing... for whatever reason. That would suck.

Suggestions? Recommendations?

 

if pulling it out of the top is an option i assume that means you have an engine hoist/cherry picker. most of these have enough lifting power to safely lift the front half of the vehicle. the trick(s) in doing this are having a solid flat surface to work on (garage floor or smooth, level driveway) trustworthy wheel blocks/chocks in the rear and a good rigging strategy for holding the chassis with the hoist. some chain of suitable weight rating to a large bolt hole in the chassis on either side of the engine bay is a good bet.

how I have done it:
get trans ready to come out the normal way with one bolt left holding it to the engine. lift the vehicle off the jack stands with the hoist and rigging system you've decided on. remove the jack stands (wheels should be off in front already) and lower the hoist so that the bottom of the transmission is touching or at least very close to the furniture dolly you've placed underneath. this should be possible to do before the front rotors touch the ground. if not adjust the set up until it is. pop the trans off and onto the dolly. lift the hoist again until you can roll the trans out.

stay safe!

 

Hmm... Hoisting the entire front end... That notion that never crossed my mind.

The implication from your response is, take the transmission out the bottom.

 

yeah, i don't think I've ever pulled an auto from the top. may be possible with some of the older models, but anything with a V6 is going to be more work through the top (if it's even possible) than through the bottom. the four cylinder models are a maybe... but again, i've never tried.

 

Fat chance.
You also don't need a lift.
On the 98-02's it sucks since you need to pull the front beam out so the trans will clear the side beams that are part of the front and rear beams. BTW mark the joints where the rear and front beam overlap with an X-Acto(or similar) knife. Circle the bolt heads with a permanent(fine point) marker so you can get the bolts and cradle lined back up for easy alignment.
Pop the lower BJs, pop the axles(diff side) and you are halfway done.
V6 CGs are a bigger bitch as you lose the front engine mount and will need to use something to support the engine as it hangs out in space. On other vehicles I have used 2x4s or 4x4s straddling the inside of the fender lips with a strap to support the weight of the engine. DIY stores have the tie down straps that are usually long enough, good stuff. Or you could spend the ~$550 for the 'correct' engine support system from Honda through Snap-On. F-That.

I've used a pair of 4 Ton(3 ton will work but I like the wider stance(safety)) jack stands, one at each jacking point on the rocker. Raise the vehicle nose up enough for the trans and trans jack height to clear the car.
On CA-CEs you can sneak the trans out the wheel well to avoid the lower bumper components(air dam, etc). I'd recommend the HF 450lb mechanical trans jack. On the H4A transmissions it cradles the trans at the perfect angle and makes removal/installation a breeze. It does require a bit of effort during installation, but unlike a hydro unit you have a better feel when something may not be right, and you can easily raise/lower without losing your position. Nylon strap is also nice as you can really snug down the trans without worry of damage to the case or sensors(as long as you don't crush them) as the chains do.

Check the link in my sig 'Removal/install AT' that will get you most of the way there I'm sure with the exception of a few differences with the CG compared to the CA-CE models.