Oil dilemma - what types should I use or avoid for my purpose?
Hi guys, I have to change oil to my eg6 with engine b18c rebuilt with Wiseco pistons, the rest is all stock. Now the engine is 5000km and has always been used with Motul 300V 10W40 oil. Reading and listening to various tips, not yet understood what is the best solution and I look for your advice here.
The car is only used on weekends for pleasure trips, and 6/7 times a year I participate in trackday. Environmental temperatures of use from 5 degrees to 30/32. The engine has a 19-row Mocal oil radiator and even on the track the oil temperature never exceeds 110 degrees in summer.
I think I have provided all the information for your noble advice
The car is only used on weekends for pleasure trips, and 6/7 times a year I participate in trackday. Environmental temperatures of use from 5 degrees to 30/32. The engine has a 19-row Mocal oil radiator and even on the track the oil temperature never exceeds 110 degrees in summer.
I think I have provided all the information for your noble advice
Hi guys, I have to change oil to my eg6 with engine b18c rebuilt with Wiseco pistons, the rest is all stock. Now the engine is 5000km and has always been used with Motul 300V 10W40 oil. Reading and listening to various tips, not yet understood what is the best solution and I look for your advice here.
The car is only used on weekends for pleasure trips, and 6/7 times a year I participate in trackday. Environmental temperatures of use from 5 degrees to 30/32. The engine has a 19-row Mocal oil radiator and even on the track the oil temperature never exceeds 110 degrees in summer.
I think I have provided all the information for your noble advice
The car is only used on weekends for pleasure trips, and 6/7 times a year I participate in trackday. Environmental temperatures of use from 5 degrees to 30/32. The engine has a 19-row Mocal oil radiator and even on the track the oil temperature never exceeds 110 degrees in summer.
I think I have provided all the information for your noble advice

This is not a valid question. Road = road race/circuit or street/daily use . What do you mean by "track"? What type of racing age toy trying to involve yourself with?
There are many different oils to us. Best ones need a high ZDDP (zinc) content. Brands NOT to use are Mobil 1 Synthetic, in any weight.
You can use anything from Castrol Edge, to Pennzoil, to Brad Penn, etc.
We can't read minds. But this is the last attempt to humor you. There are literally 15years of archives here you can plow through to understand your needs. But there is no BEST he, only what is best for you.
There are many different oils to us. Best ones need a high ZDDP (zinc) content. Brands NOT to use are Mobil 1 Synthetic, in any weight.
You can use anything from Castrol Edge, to Pennzoil, to Brad Penn, etc.
We can't read minds. But this is the last attempt to humor you. There are literally 15years of archives here you can plow through to understand your needs. But there is no BEST he, only what is best for you.
Now i use Motul 300V 10x40
Pick any modern name brand synthetic oil in 0W or 5W 30 and call it a day.....
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thanks for the advice, I would like to understand why; is not the gradation for my climate too low? Here in Italy many people use and recommend 15w50 and I would like to understand the motivations of such advice.
If the engine is modified/raced, then use a synthetic version of 5W30. Or a racing only version. There is no valid reason to change the weight at this point.
The majority of people who run thicker oil, do so out of shear ignorance and misunderstanding of Tribology.
I think that thicker oil is used because in racing applications, especially forced induction an oil-cooled turbo can increase oil temps quite a bit.
Would really like to know why Mobil 1 should not be used, as I was just about to put in their 0w-50 racing oil....
Would really like to know why Mobil 1 should not be used, as I was just about to put in their 0w-50 racing oil....
Mobile Synthetic tends to run almost too thin. So thin, that I've seen oil weeping from between the head gasket and block (by the VTEC solenoid). Then when changed to something else, like a Castrol or Brad Penn, that weeping actually goes away. I kid you not.
Last edited by TheShodan; Feb 4, 2019 at 06:18 PM.
Thicker is not always better, as some oils actually burn off MORE as cover temperatures increase. That's why many circuit cars actually use a 0w oil because the car almost never runs comes in racing conditions. (See Enos Racing Oils as an example). Bearing clearances tend to be optimzed towards those thinner oils
Mobile Synthetic trends to run almost too thin. So thin, that I've seen oil weeping from between the head gasket and block (by the VTEC solenoid). Then when changed to something else, like a Castrol or Brad Penn, that weeping actually goes away. I kid you not.
Mobile Synthetic trends to run almost too thin. So thin, that I've seen oil weeping from between the head gasket and block (by the VTEC solenoid). Then when changed to something else, like a Castrol or Brad Penn, that weeping actually goes away. I kid you not.
Valvoline VR1 looks good, but it only comes in 10w30 and 20w50. Not sure what either of those changes in weight might affect.
Valvoline VR1 "blue" 10w30 is just fine
The specialty brands like Brad Penn, Eneos, , VR-1 and Rotella T5 & T6 oils are more in demand for 40w in the U.S.
Thicker is not always better, as some oils actually burn off MORE as cover temperatures increase. That's why many circuit cars actually use a 0w oil because the car almost never runs comes in racing conditions. (See Enos Racing Oils as an example). Bearing clearances tend to be optimzed towards those thinner oils
Mobile Synthetic tends to run almost too thin. So thin, that I've seen oil weeping from between the head gasket and block (by the VTEC solenoid). Then when changed to something else, like a Castrol or Brad Penn, that weeping actually goes away. I kid you not.
Mobile Synthetic tends to run almost too thin. So thin, that I've seen oil weeping from between the head gasket and block (by the VTEC solenoid). Then when changed to something else, like a Castrol or Brad Penn, that weeping actually goes away. I kid you not.
Interesting, under what conditions does this happen?
I have been using Mobil 1 in all of my cars for 15+ years now. They all do leak, but they're all old cars too 
Definitely going to try switching to Valvoline or Castrol and see if it makes a difference. Ordered VR1 for the CRX.

Definitely going to try switching to Valvoline or Castrol and see if it makes a difference. Ordered VR1 for the CRX.
Well my post above specifically addresses the reason for this fallacy....
Ive found that Mobil-1 tends to burn/flash off much more quicker than other synthetics. I change my oil every 7k. Have for the last 15 years. With mobile 1 I was always 1 quart to 1.5 quarts low at the end of my OCI. With other oils(specifically Pennzoil Platinum) I usually lost no more than .5-.75 quarts. So I dont use Mobil-1
However it is factory fill in many high horsepower production vehicles.
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