Replaced Leakey prop valve, brakes still do not work.
Hello friends. I am working on a 1994 Del Sol. The problem it was having is one day the brake light came on, due to low fluid, and the brake pedal would go all the way to the floor, and barely slow the car down.
Now this is not my car, it’s a friends car. I don’t know if both of these problems happened at the same time, or if one started happening before the other.
After visual inspection of the brake system, I discovered a leaking proportioning valve. I replaced it (big pita) and bled the brakes.
Problem is the pedal still goes all the way to the floor, and the car barely stops. I visually inspected all of the other lines and components, and I can not seem to find any leaks. Also the brake fluid level is not changing (indicating no more leak, am I right?)
Anyone know what can be causing this? I’m an armature mechanic so please don’t bite my head off of the problem is obvious. I appreciate your help. Thanks in advance.
-Cole
Edit: I asked the owner and the brake light and brake pedal becoming soft and happened a week apart from each other. Also, previous owner put in a new master cylinder.
Now this is not my car, it’s a friends car. I don’t know if both of these problems happened at the same time, or if one started happening before the other.
After visual inspection of the brake system, I discovered a leaking proportioning valve. I replaced it (big pita) and bled the brakes.
Problem is the pedal still goes all the way to the floor, and the car barely stops. I visually inspected all of the other lines and components, and I can not seem to find any leaks. Also the brake fluid level is not changing (indicating no more leak, am I right?)
Anyone know what can be causing this? I’m an armature mechanic so please don’t bite my head off of the problem is obvious. I appreciate your help. Thanks in advance.
-Cole
Edit: I asked the owner and the brake light and brake pedal becoming soft and happened a week apart from each other. Also, previous owner put in a new master cylinder.
Last edited by Coleproblems; Jan 3, 2019 at 05:18 AM. Reason: More info added.
The “buddy system” as it’s called. One person pumps and holds the brakes as I cracked the bleeder valve. Repeat until no air comes out. Starting with the longest lines from the MC moving to the shortest.
since youre no longer leaking fluid now, you need to do a better job bleeding the brakes. keep trying. hydraulics is pretty simple.
In other words, you didn't run a clear line into a container filled with brake fluid. That's why you still have air in the line. You're doing it wrong.
hello I now know 3 different ways to bleed brakes and 0 ways to make the brakes on this car work.
Brakes have been bled. A lot. Different ways. All proper ways. No more air. But still, pedal to the floor and very little stopping power. Is there anything else it could be or should I hire a professional brake bleeder.
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yeah i read that. previous owner replaced it. your issue makes me think its suspect.
and make sure you bench bleed it. and check the booster push rod gap. http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2053-0001.pdf
and make sure you bench bleed it. and check the booster push rod gap. http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2053-0001.pdf
Would ask when this issue started?
Did the brake pedal go all down before the MC was changed?
How is the brake booster? Hose?
If there is no ABS in this car then would suspect that the Master cylinder is faulty.
Pedal goes all down and no brake pressure?
It is not unusual for bad new parts in the auto part industry.
Or even bad re-manufactured parts
Did the brake pedal go all down before the MC was changed?
How is the brake booster? Hose?
If there is no ABS in this car then would suspect that the Master cylinder is faulty.
Pedal goes all down and no brake pressure?
It is not unusual for bad new parts in the auto part industry.
Or even bad re-manufactured parts
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