Hello everyone I have a 93 Accord that is having starting problems, was going down the road and it died with all the electronics still on. I researched this issue thoroughly on this forum and other places and found out about the main relay issue and changed that with no success.

I did a spark test and I am not getting spark at all to the distributor, and I am kinda leaning towards it being the ECM. Would the ECM kill the engine going down the road?

So far I have replaced the main relay, distributor, distributor cap and rotor, plugs, wires. After reading around I am leaning towards it being the ECM, but I am not really sure and would hate to waste time buying it if that's not it.

I have read to check hood fuse 31 and dash fuse 24 and a few tests on the main relay harness connector. Is there anything else I can check to isolate the problem?

Thank you to everyone for their responses and time.

 

You're getting no spark, and you replaced a bunch of stuff. But you should also test your Coil. It is what takes the 12V from the battery turns it into the massive voltage that goes to the distributor. You should also search to make sure you don't have a wire that has worked loose; possibly on the coil. You can go with ECM if you want, but on that car, I would look at simpler stuff first.

 

Isn't the coil inside the distributor? If so, I replaced the distributor and it was a remanufactured OEM one, so the coil should be brand new.

Someone told me to check the crank sensor. Is there a possibility that's it?

 

Is your check engine light on, have you tried retrieving any stored codes from the ECU?

I thought the 93 Accords had the external coil distributor....been a while since I worked on one. I know there are both internal and external coil distributors available for these F22A engines.

Check all of your power and ground wires, specially the ground attached to the thermostat housing. If it is loose or dirty it can cause no start issues.

ether way, you should perform input tests on the coil and ignition control module. Make sure they are getting battery voltage. I have seen remand distributor components fail right out of the box. They usually replace the higher quality Tec or Hitichi components with no name Chinese crap.

 

Yes, the 90 and 91 coils are inside the distributor. 92 and 93 are external and much bigger.

You'll need to figure out where your spark is going. Check all the wires for proper seating. The contacts on those wires can get weirdly crimped or folded under the shrouds and appear to be solidly seated when there is actually no electrical contact at all.

There is also at least one key ground on those cars. I can't recall exactly where it is, but I think it is near the thermostat. Make sure it is connected and making solid contact.

When did the starting problems first appear and was the lack of spark the first symptom noticed?

 

Ok I found the ignition coil and yes it is big and nestled behind the distributor. I have checked and it is getting voltage to the plug from the ECU, but none from the plug feeding the distributor, which has led me to believe it might be the ignition coil. I have received the part today and getting ready to replace it. If this doesn't fix it, then I will run the codes. Fingers crossed.

 

Replaced the ignition coil and checked that ground near the thermostat and had no luck, but I did make a video that will hopefully shed some light on what I am dealing with here.

To date I have replaced Ignition Coil, Main Relay, Distributor & cap and rotor, plugs and wires. It can't be too many more things, but it is still apparently not getting a spark

https://youtu.be/TZtZc5hCrms

 

Are you keeping the key turned or is the starter disengaging after a second or two of operation?

If you ever solved the no-spark problem, and if you keep the key turned for maybe 5-seconds (it won't hurt anything) and combustion shows no signs of happening, you might want to read up here on checking for fuel pressure. Could be main relay, fuel pump, regulator, fuel filter or something else. Strongly suggest that you try to narrow it down before replacing more parts. In your video, the Check Engine Light does come on, so the ECU is not dead, but that doesn't mean it is malfunctioning.

If still no spark, you will need to find where it is getting lost. Was distributor you put in complete, meaning did it have new OEM type Ignitor in it. Have you confirmed that the rotor spins under the cap?

What did your Code check reveal...anything?

 

Yes they told me it had a new ignition control module and all new seals.

No I stopped cranking it and then tried again so you could tell the problem I was having.

When I bought the distributor I asked if it had a new ignition control module and was told yes, it looked new when installing it.

Was told to check camshaft, but it's hard without a helper.