5th Gen Euro R Swap in Austin, TX
Good Morning HT. Been quite a few years since I have perused this site, however, I recently bought a cherry 2000 prelude that now is in need of a new motor. So, I'm going to where I got a ton of guidance on my old integra years ago and thought I would start a thread here.
Respecting the fact that there are a ton of threads on Euro R swaps, I'm asking for a bit more guidance on everything whilst highlighting my actual goals of the vehicle. I have a habit of completely ripping out OG drivetrains for new, more reliable, and more fun... My thing is, while I have a pretty expansive tool collection and a garage to pull off a swap like this... I respect the fact that in all of my old Honda days I was a better wrench than I was an architect / tuner. I'm looking for a company in the Austin / San Antonio area that is reputable enough to manage the swap OR if there is anyone wanting to make a weekend out of this I will provide the beers and be more than willing to pay cash to work along side yall and learn some more.
Enough about that. Lets get to the good stuff.
I've already put a deposit down on a 51k mile Euro R from JDM Alliance in Garland, TX. I like that they were in Tejas... but it I am told they are not reputable I will go to HMotors in a heartbeat. JDM Alliance is getting a shipping crate in this week and I'm hoping to walk away with the motor, complete w/ ECU and LSD, as well as a Mugen header for the H22.
The car I have is a 5th gen: OBDII to OBDII. I know that there are renditions and that OBD jumpers will be needed for the JDM ECU. The ECU I am getting with the motor is a PCD-004.
The prelude I have is in pretty mint condition, barring the dents and very little sun damage that come from an 18 year old vehicle. It is already equipped with Tein Street coilovers, Tannabe lower braces, sway bars, and strut towers, as well as a Fidanza flywheel and exedy clutch. I plan on replacing the clutch as well as the contact point on the flywheel if needed (or a new flywheel) for the new engine. All in all, I'm very happy with the car other than the fact that cylinder two is at 75PSI... somehow not misfiring or throwing any CELs.
With all of that said. Here is my parts list:
- 2001 Euro R Motor, ECU, and T2W4 LSD Tranny
- I would like to use the Euro R IM, would contemplate an upgraded TB (if needed) and replace/rebuild injectors (if needed)
- Mugen header, magnaflow high flow cat, apexi noir cat back (I do not want ricey, I want relatively quiet that packs a punch)
- Still determining CAI... may not mess with it.
- If I stay w/ PCB-004 I may go VAFC for minor fuel map adjustments. If tuning is recommended I may sway from that and go elsewhere
End goal would be to have a reliable and unique daily that I may be able to sell for a little more than I paid for it two - three years from now. Realistically, this is my commute car from S Austin to N Austin and something fun to drive.
With all of that said. Would love some guidance on what else is all going to be needed w/ this swap. I understand the changeover of sensors from a USDM to JDM as well as replacing the oil pump with a new OEM USDM oil pump. Really trying to figure out how I do this with running the engine stock and not requiring any tuning. Currently this is a bone stock prelude, except all of the suspension upgrades, and I aim to keep it as close to that as possible.
Looking forward to getting insights from the team here. All the best, Nick.
Respecting the fact that there are a ton of threads on Euro R swaps, I'm asking for a bit more guidance on everything whilst highlighting my actual goals of the vehicle. I have a habit of completely ripping out OG drivetrains for new, more reliable, and more fun... My thing is, while I have a pretty expansive tool collection and a garage to pull off a swap like this... I respect the fact that in all of my old Honda days I was a better wrench than I was an architect / tuner. I'm looking for a company in the Austin / San Antonio area that is reputable enough to manage the swap OR if there is anyone wanting to make a weekend out of this I will provide the beers and be more than willing to pay cash to work along side yall and learn some more.
Enough about that. Lets get to the good stuff.
I've already put a deposit down on a 51k mile Euro R from JDM Alliance in Garland, TX. I like that they were in Tejas... but it I am told they are not reputable I will go to HMotors in a heartbeat. JDM Alliance is getting a shipping crate in this week and I'm hoping to walk away with the motor, complete w/ ECU and LSD, as well as a Mugen header for the H22.
The car I have is a 5th gen: OBDII to OBDII. I know that there are renditions and that OBD jumpers will be needed for the JDM ECU. The ECU I am getting with the motor is a PCD-004.
The prelude I have is in pretty mint condition, barring the dents and very little sun damage that come from an 18 year old vehicle. It is already equipped with Tein Street coilovers, Tannabe lower braces, sway bars, and strut towers, as well as a Fidanza flywheel and exedy clutch. I plan on replacing the clutch as well as the contact point on the flywheel if needed (or a new flywheel) for the new engine. All in all, I'm very happy with the car other than the fact that cylinder two is at 75PSI... somehow not misfiring or throwing any CELs.
With all of that said. Here is my parts list:
- 2001 Euro R Motor, ECU, and T2W4 LSD Tranny
- I would like to use the Euro R IM, would contemplate an upgraded TB (if needed) and replace/rebuild injectors (if needed)
- Mugen header, magnaflow high flow cat, apexi noir cat back (I do not want ricey, I want relatively quiet that packs a punch)
- Still determining CAI... may not mess with it.
- If I stay w/ PCB-004 I may go VAFC for minor fuel map adjustments. If tuning is recommended I may sway from that and go elsewhere
End goal would be to have a reliable and unique daily that I may be able to sell for a little more than I paid for it two - three years from now. Realistically, this is my commute car from S Austin to N Austin and something fun to drive.
With all of that said. Would love some guidance on what else is all going to be needed w/ this swap. I understand the changeover of sensors from a USDM to JDM as well as replacing the oil pump with a new OEM USDM oil pump. Really trying to figure out how I do this with running the engine stock and not requiring any tuning. Currently this is a bone stock prelude, except all of the suspension upgrades, and I aim to keep it as close to that as possible.
Looking forward to getting insights from the team here. All the best, Nick.
-Check Rosko Racing there should be some write up using Euro R IM (https://roskoracing.com/blogs/news/e...ld-parts-guide)
-If you can try to find Type S intake
-Remember that you have to rebuild the swap engine
-Do not do VAFC its not very good solution, rather get chipped ecu and tune it elsewhere if needed
-Mugen header is really not special with H22s, rather sell it and get Hytech replica or something more juicy (www.privatelabelmfg.com)
-If you can get JDM engine harness you could run all JDM engine (electrical wise) so you could use JDM ecu and not to swap distributors, oil pump, sensors etc
-If you can try to find Type S intake
-Remember that you have to rebuild the swap engine
-Do not do VAFC its not very good solution, rather get chipped ecu and tune it elsewhere if needed
-Mugen header is really not special with H22s, rather sell it and get Hytech replica or something more juicy (www.privatelabelmfg.com)
-If you can get JDM engine harness you could run all JDM engine (electrical wise) so you could use JDM ecu and not to swap distributors, oil pump, sensors etc
Good Morning HT. Been quite a few years since I have perused this site, however, I recently bought a cherry 2000 prelude that now is in need of a new motor. So, I'm going to where I got a ton of guidance on my old integra years ago and thought I would start a thread here.
Respecting the fact that there are a ton of threads on Euro R swaps, I'm asking for a bit more guidance on everything whilst highlighting my actual goals of the vehicle. I have a habit of completely ripping out OG drivetrains for new, more reliable, and more fun... My thing is, while I have a pretty expansive tool collection and a garage to pull off a swap like this... I respect the fact that in all of my old Honda days I was a better wrench than I was an architect / tuner. I'm looking for a company in the Austin / San Antonio area that is reputable enough to manage the swap OR if there is anyone wanting to make a weekend out of this I will provide the beers and be more than willing to pay cash to work along side yall and learn some more.
Enough about that. Lets get to the good stuff.
I've already put a deposit down on a 51k mile Euro R from JDM Alliance in Garland, TX. I like that they were in Tejas... but it I am told they are not reputable I will go to HMotors in a heartbeat. JDM Alliance is getting a shipping crate in this week and I'm hoping to walk away with the motor, complete w/ ECU and LSD, as well as a Mugen header for the H22.
The car I have is a 5th gen: OBDII to OBDII. I know that there are renditions and that OBD jumpers will be needed for the JDM ECU. The ECU I am getting with the motor is a PCD-004.
The prelude I have is in pretty mint condition, barring the dents and very little sun damage that come from an 18 year old vehicle. It is already equipped with Tein Street coilovers, Tannabe lower braces, sway bars, and strut towers, as well as a Fidanza flywheel and exedy clutch. I plan on replacing the clutch as well as the contact point on the flywheel if needed (or a new flywheel) for the new engine. All in all, I'm very happy with the car other than the fact that cylinder two is at 75PSI... somehow not misfiring or throwing any CELs.
With all of that said. Here is my parts list:
- 2001 Euro R Motor, ECU, and T2W4 LSD Tranny
- I would like to use the Euro R IM, would contemplate an upgraded TB (if needed) and replace/rebuild injectors (if needed)
- Mugen header, magnaflow high flow cat, apexi noir cat back (I do not want ricey, I want relatively quiet that packs a punch)
- Still determining CAI... may not mess with it.
- If I stay w/ PCB-004 I may go VAFC for minor fuel map adjustments. If tuning is recommended I may sway from that and go elsewhere
End goal would be to have a reliable and unique daily that I may be able to sell for a little more than I paid for it two - three years from now. Realistically, this is my commute car from S Austin to N Austin and something fun to drive.
With all of that said. Would love some guidance on what else is all going to be needed w/ this swap. I understand the changeover of sensors from a USDM to JDM as well as replacing the oil pump with a new OEM USDM oil pump. Really trying to figure out how I do this with running the engine stock and not requiring any tuning. Currently this is a bone stock prelude, except all of the suspension upgrades, and I aim to keep it as close to that as possible.
Looking forward to getting insights from the team here. All the best, Nick.
Respecting the fact that there are a ton of threads on Euro R swaps, I'm asking for a bit more guidance on everything whilst highlighting my actual goals of the vehicle. I have a habit of completely ripping out OG drivetrains for new, more reliable, and more fun... My thing is, while I have a pretty expansive tool collection and a garage to pull off a swap like this... I respect the fact that in all of my old Honda days I was a better wrench than I was an architect / tuner. I'm looking for a company in the Austin / San Antonio area that is reputable enough to manage the swap OR if there is anyone wanting to make a weekend out of this I will provide the beers and be more than willing to pay cash to work along side yall and learn some more.
Enough about that. Lets get to the good stuff.
I've already put a deposit down on a 51k mile Euro R from JDM Alliance in Garland, TX. I like that they were in Tejas... but it I am told they are not reputable I will go to HMotors in a heartbeat. JDM Alliance is getting a shipping crate in this week and I'm hoping to walk away with the motor, complete w/ ECU and LSD, as well as a Mugen header for the H22.
The car I have is a 5th gen: OBDII to OBDII. I know that there are renditions and that OBD jumpers will be needed for the JDM ECU. The ECU I am getting with the motor is a PCD-004.
The prelude I have is in pretty mint condition, barring the dents and very little sun damage that come from an 18 year old vehicle. It is already equipped with Tein Street coilovers, Tannabe lower braces, sway bars, and strut towers, as well as a Fidanza flywheel and exedy clutch. I plan on replacing the clutch as well as the contact point on the flywheel if needed (or a new flywheel) for the new engine. All in all, I'm very happy with the car other than the fact that cylinder two is at 75PSI... somehow not misfiring or throwing any CELs.
With all of that said. Here is my parts list:
- 2001 Euro R Motor, ECU, and T2W4 LSD Tranny
- I would like to use the Euro R IM, would contemplate an upgraded TB (if needed) and replace/rebuild injectors (if needed)
- Mugen header, magnaflow high flow cat, apexi noir cat back (I do not want ricey, I want relatively quiet that packs a punch)
- Still determining CAI... may not mess with it.
- If I stay w/ PCB-004 I may go VAFC for minor fuel map adjustments. If tuning is recommended I may sway from that and go elsewhere
End goal would be to have a reliable and unique daily that I may be able to sell for a little more than I paid for it two - three years from now. Realistically, this is my commute car from S Austin to N Austin and something fun to drive.
With all of that said. Would love some guidance on what else is all going to be needed w/ this swap. I understand the changeover of sensors from a USDM to JDM as well as replacing the oil pump with a new OEM USDM oil pump. Really trying to figure out how I do this with running the engine stock and not requiring any tuning. Currently this is a bone stock prelude, except all of the suspension upgrades, and I aim to keep it as close to that as possible.
Looking forward to getting insights from the team here. All the best, Nick.
@98Kid I would consider the SK drivetrain unique from the standard base model. I think a base model CV for the driver's side should fix it, from your description.
@ OP, I'd suggest the OBD1/chipped ecu route as well, if only because the stock computer is still going to want to see the actuator for the secondaries in the IM.
@ OP, I'd suggest the OBD1/chipped ecu route as well, if only because the stock computer is still going to want to see the actuator for the secondaries in the IM.
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