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Ok, so I've heard a few people mention this, and I'm not sure I quite understand, but coolant is supposed to run through the intake manifold at some point??? I have a d16y7, that's been leaking from the water pump for at least 6 months .Lately it's been more pooring from the water pump, I just haven't gotten around to changing it. I drive the car everywhere, it's my dd, I just keep a couple jugs of water with and stop every 30 minutes or so to fill up my radiator. I remember watching a YouTube video posted by Eric The Car Guy about idling issues, in which he said if an air pocket gets in the coolant part of your intake mani it could cause idling issues. I've not had any idling issues at all, except when my tps sensor crapped out on me the other day and threw a check engine light, which seemed to fix itself when I unplugged it and plugged it back in. I've yet to reset the CEL so it's still on but I'm idling normal again and the throttle isn't all jerky like it was/is with a bad TPS. I know I've ran my car completely out of water several times, until it ran hot, not hot enough to blow the head gasket but hot., But I don't think I've had an issue with an air pocket in the coolant part of my intake manifold. I do know that before my TPS crapped out that one day I used to have an excessively high idle when I first started the car until it warmed up a bit and since I unplugged it and plugged it back in I've had a more regular idle on startup. I do have a constant hissing noise like escaping compressed air that comes from under the passenger side dash or under the hood on the passenger side near the firewall that I've suspected to be a vaccumm leak. But do understand, the car runs as it should and hasn't had a CEL on until my TPS crapped out, at which time I had a surging idle and jerky throttle response until I unplugged it and plugged it back in, like I've already explained. I do not understand the coolant in the intake mani at all and in curious as to what the constant hissing noise under the dash/hood may be. Would somebody who knows what they are talking about please help?? The car runs as it should, except it does seem a big sluggish if anything. And ine more thing, I also hear a loud burst of air when I hit rev limiter on the same side of the car as the other hissing noise is coming from, sounding almost like a blow off valve would in a turboed car. So I think the constant hissing I hear and the rev limiter noise may be related. Any help on explaining this or why exactly coolant passes through the intake mani and how that works would be highly appreciated, thanks!!!
Getting through your wall of text is painful enough that many may not take the time. Formatting would be beneficial. I understand you maybe doing this on your phone but that is still not an excuse to treat the post as one long text message with no grammatical formatting.
You named off several issues. Which issues do you wish to focus on?
Currently, your car is on the verge of death. I do not think merely fixing your coolant leaks is going to prevent this as you have over heated the engine several times as per you. The damage is already done. The intake manifold has coolant passages in it that is separate of the air flow portion of the intake. You should not see coolant in the air runners. The coolant passage(s) are to allow coolant to other temperature sensing devices like the AICV (and FITV on older model Hondas).
Please, reformat your post and focus in on the area you'd like to learn. I am not sure if your intention is to begin working on your car or if you are asking just to ask.
First off, this car is a beater I bought for $500 6 months ago. It leaks oil like a banshee, is rusted out to the point of not fixing, and every body panel is trashed. It isn't something I bought with intentions to put a bunch of money into or fix, it was just something to get back and forth to work for a few months. It doesn't overheat until it pours the water out to the point that the water pump won't circulate it into the engine and I haven't let it get past the point of where I can tell the thermostat needle has moved any. Second, who is the grammar and punctuation ****? Forgive me if I may be a little long winded and my phone may mistype a few things I don't catch, but my post makes complete sense and if anything I reinterate things for people who skim read and only answer parts of the question. Your critisim doesn't help me in anyway answer the question that I'm asking. I would like to know how the coolant system in the IM works and what the hissing noise under my dash could possibly be.
First off, this car is a beater I bought for $500 6 months ago. It leaks oil like a banshee, is rusted out to the point of not fixing, and every body panel is trashed. It isn't something I bought with intentions to put a bunch of money into or fix, it was just something to get back and forth to work for a few months. It doesn't overheat until it pours the water out to the point that the water pump won't circulate it into the engine and I haven't let it get past the point of where I can tell the thermostat needle has moved any. Second, who is the grammar and punctuation ****? Forgive me if I may be a little long winded and my phone may mistype a few things I don't catch, but my post makes complete sense and if anything I reinterate things for people who skim read and only answer parts of the question. Your critisim doesn't help me in anyway answer the question that I'm asking. I would like to know how the coolant system in the IM works and what the hissing noise under my dash could possibly be.
You're asking what the hissing noise is on a car that leaks a gallon of water every time you drive it, that's so rusted and busted you dont want to spend any money to fix.
If I told you what was hissing would you even fix it? You just said you wouldn't so why would I answer your question
The answer is I'm not going to waste my time to type an asnwer that you're too lazy to even fix yourself.
You're asking what the hissing noise is on a car that leaks a gallon of water every time you drive it, that's so rusted and busted you dont want to spend any money to fix.
If I told you what was hissing would you even fix it? You just said you wouldn't so why would I answer your question
The answer is I'm not going to waste my time to type an asnwer that you're too lazy to even fix yourself.
Hot water makes a hissing noise when it gets hot.
Happy birthmas
Lazy? Troll. No not everyone has $150 to drop on a water pump/timing belt kit. But no I'm not assuming that the noise and the coolant leak are related, just asking about both. I assume the hiss to be some type of vacuum leak, and yes I'd like to find it and fix it. Vacuum leaks are guinunely simple and cheap to fix and while I am driving the car id like to get the best fuel economy and power out of it as possible, so how's about not being a complete condensending dick. Doesn't the vent switch run off of a vacuum hose??? Could it possibly be under my dash?
Getting through your wall of text is painful enough that many may not take the time. Formatting would be beneficial. I understand you maybe doing this on your phone but that is still not an excuse to treat the post as one long text message with no grammatical formatting.
You named off several issues. Which issues do you wish to focus on?
Currently, your car is on the verge of death. I do not think merely fixing your coolant leaks is going to prevent this as you have over heated the engine several times as per you. The damage is already done. The intake manifold has coolant passages in it that is separate of the air flow portion of the intake. You should not see coolant in the air runners. The coolant passage(s) are to allow coolant to other temperature sensing devices like the AICV (and FITV on older model Hondas).
Please, reformat your post and focus in on the area you'd like to learn. I am not sure if your intention is to begin working on your car or if you are asking just to ask.
what all sensors on the im are we talking about? I can understand for the temp guage sending unit or whatever Honda calls it, but is that even on the IM? What role does coolant temp play on any other sensors that it runs to?
No not everyone has $150 to drop on a water pump/timing belt kit.
But it really should be the one item you fix yesterday. Transportation is not free. When it's free, you're walking, which is likely what you'll be doing sooner than later.
I assume the hiss to be some type of vacuum leak
There are zero vacuum hoses under the dash. Perhaps you are hearing refrigerant boil in the evaporator or air sucked into the leaking water pump and passing through the heater core.
But it really should be the one item you fix yesterday. Transportation is not free. When it's free, you're walking, which is likely what you'll be doing sooner than later.
There are zero vacuum hoses under the dash. Perhaps you are hearing refrigerant boil in the evaporator or air sucked into the leaking water pump and passing through the heater core.
I agree, I should have fixed the water pump when I bought the car and found it was leaking, it's just been a rough year financially. I'm still bothered by the hissing noise I hear. It could be possibly coming from the engine bay near the firewall and just sound like it's under the dash. But isn't the vent switch ran off vacuum? Since I've had the car the vent switch hasn't worked that great like it sorta works. I remember having an issue with the heating/air vents not working on my dad's Nissan pickup. Turns out the vent switch on it was ran off of a vacuum hose and it had broke. Is mine on the Civic the sake cas? I've looked a little under the hood at vacuum hoses and looked for vacuum diagrams for a d16y7 online but I get completely lost.
Get on Facebook and offer $60 for some one to perform a timing belt and water pump. Some one will jump on it, its genuinely a simple job on a dseries. Basically $100 and this car should run another 3-4 years
The 96-98 cars have a heater control valve that you close using the slide lever on the dash. You slide it to blue and it closes the heater core from coolant. With a bad leak coolant will bubble and hiss
If the hiss is coming from the back of the motor or the intake you could have a vacuum leak which would cause the car to idle higher. But the car isnt being cooled properly, there are spikes in temperature and cars computer cant accurately calculate how to run the engine. The car will act all sorts of wacky with spiking coolant temperatures because the ecu is dumping fuel to make the car run colder, switching the fans to full blast to lower temps, reducing power to keep the car from overheating because the cars computer is trying to prevent your engine from EXPLODING from being over heated.
Second, who is the grammar and punctuation ****? Forgive me if I may be a little long winded and my phone may mistype a few things I don't catch, but my post makes complete sense and if anything I reinterate things for people who skim read and only answer parts of the question. Your critisim doesn't help me in anyway answer the question that I'm asking.
Actually the criticism does help as more people will read your post and provide feedback. But since your goal is to reject 90 percent of feedback, there is very little point in "helping".
And interestingly enough, your selective reading habits had you skip over how I provided at least one of the items you were after, the purpose of the coolant passing through parts of the IM manifold. Your response, once again reinforces the idea that you don't actually want feedback and you are writing giant walls of non-paragraphed (not easy to read) text to write giant walls of non-paragraphed text.
As you state, it's a beater, just ignore it and drive it till it dies, scrap it, then wash rinse repeat.
Oh and if I was a ****, I would have just edited your post and broke it into easier to read paragraphs instead of suggesting you help yourself by doing it yourself.
Get on Facebook and offer $60 for some one to perform a timing belt and water pump. Some one will jump on it, its genuinely a simple job on a dseries. Basically $100 and this car should run another 3-4 years
The 96-98 cars have a heater control valve that you close using the slide lever on the dash. You slide it to blue and it closes the heater core from coolant. With a bad leak coolant will bubble and hiss
If the hiss is coming from the back of the motor or the intake you could have a vacuum leak which would cause the car to idle higher. But the car isnt being cooled properly, there are spikes in temperature and cars computer cant accurately calculate how to run the engine. The car will act all sorts of wacky with spiking coolant temperatures because the ecu is dumping fuel to make the car run colder, switching the fans to full blast to lower temps, reducing power to keep the car from overheating because the cars computer is trying to prevent your engine from EXPLODING from being over heated.
sooo the hiss and the coolant leak are related. I'll do the labor myself, was just going to buy a kit but if I can order parts that cheap separately then why not? Would you recommend going ahead and buying a tensioner as well to pop in there while I'm at it?
First off, I'm sorry to make several posts but I can't figure out how to quote several people in one post. But mine is a 98 sedan ex that the previous owner slapped a y7 in. I do mean slapped, the ait sensor wasn't even hooked up because the wire was too short where it was placed on the y8. Lol. But I did not realize there was that much evap crap under the hood. After seeing this diagram I did a little research on deleting the entire evap system, and though I found a lot of information on doing this to an obd1 car, I couldn't find much about it for obd2. Could I possibly delete my evap system without throwing a code and still pass emmisions?
I did a little research on deletingI couldn't find much about it for obd2. Could I possibly delete my evap system without throwing a code and still pass emmisions?
Nope
What ECU is installed? The original EX ECU is the P2P. The Y7 ECU is the P2E.
Please explain how the tps fixed itself BUT the cel light still on.
I don't know if it getting suddenly cold here in NC played a role in it, but it must have had a bad connection or something because when the CEL came on I had a surging idle and a jerky throttle, like the ecu was having a hard time telling where my foot was on the pedal. It certainly didn't have the same throttle response that it usually has. I drove it for a few miles, then at my next stop I unplugged the TPS and plugged it back in and everything basically went back to normal, except now I do have a slightly low idle anywhere between 500-800 rpms. It's my understanding that once a CEL comes on, it stays on until it's reset by an obd reader. Even once the part is fixed I've never had a CEL go off until I physically reset it. Correct?
You should not think about any other parts of your car until you replace that leaking water pump. Using plain water and running low on coolant are two things that are certain to destroy the engine.
If you're doing the labor yourself you could keep the old tensioner if it is now OK. The tensioner almost always get noisy before it fails, and you could then go back in and replace it.
The CEL will go out once the key is turned off and restarted if the fault no longer is detected.
You should not think about any other parts of your car until you replace that leaking water pump. Using plain water and running low on coolant are two things that are certain to destroy the engine.
If you're doing the labor yourself you could keep the old tensioner if it is now OK. The tensioner almost always get noisy before it fails, and you could then go back in and replace it.
The CEL will go out once the key is turned off and restarted if the fault no longer is detected.
I'll pull a code on it in the next day or so, if it will ever stop raining lol, just to be sure it's the TPS, although I'm fairly posative. If so I'll go ahead n order one along with my water pump and timing belt.
Coolant in intake manifold
