So, I have what sounded like rod knock and I pulled the lower half of the engine apart. I found the block markings (DCCDD) and see the marks on the rods (I2-I2-I3-I2). I can not for the life of me find the marks on the crank?? Set the crank according to the manual, and, no marks, nothing (see picture). Tomorrow I will spin it 180 to see whats on the other side. Also, I did not see any marks on the first web/journal area.





Questions.....
1) Lower crank bearing shell has no color to them. One of the lower crank bearings says on it ~ DA 95 3 94 HI ~. Anyone recognize it? If I can get the company that makes them, I can order another set. Might have to pull all the half shells to check for individual numbers.
2) I noticed the thrust washer has been installed backwards. Someone has been in there? Maybe it is an aftermarket crank? Might explain why it vibrates like a tractor at idle. Smooth at higher rpm's though. Think it is an aftermarket crank?
3) Should I just keep the bearings i have?
4) Anyone have rod knock but have no rods that move when you grab them? There is absolutly NO play in the lower rods moving them up and down. Yes, I know thats not the technicle way to do it, but, there is NO movement. There is side to side play (just a wee bit) but other than that, its rock solid. Should I even worry about the rod bearings since I cant find any numbers to match up? I am just thinking of slapping it back together. This thing isnt worth yanking the crank to measure it. I can do the rod journals I guess with my Mitutoyo calipers but the crank is messing me up.

 

There are stampings also on the journals either on the flywheel side of #4 or the pulley side of #1 journal.
As for the rod knock, some F22s develop a piston slap issue on higher mileage engines. It can sound like rod knock, but if you note fouling of the exhaust then it may more likely be a problem with the piston or piston rings. If the sound is loudest when cold and then goes away when the engine heats up, then it is most likely a piston/cylinder issue, not rod.

 

Hey Mad Mike. Well, I searched that crank so hard, I think I found a lead to Jimmy Hoffa, but, I found NO numbers stamped into it ANYWHERE!! I found a set of STD size Duraglide 780 crank/rod and thrust bearings for $25, I gave up and threw them in there and gonna let it eat. Bearings are in "decent" shape with only one bearing that had a small flake come off of it out of all them. I would think that with so many miles, being in that good of shape, there would not be piston slap, but, as soon as the seal for the bearing bridge comes in, we will see whats up.

Will post results for future searches when i get it back together sometime next week. Seems Honda Automotive is dragging their bumper and the order will not be here for a while.

Appreciate the input, thanks.

 

I never pay any attention to markings. I just check everything with a micrometer and order what I need. For majority of engines any aftermarket STD set of bearings should cover it and still be within spec. You should be fine.

The piston slap issue is pretty annoying. My daily does it terribly and burns a lot of oil as a result. Cold starts it sounds like a diesel truck because it rattles so bad. I have found that adding a quart of heavy duty oil stabilizer at every oil change makes it much quieter and it doesn't seem to burn as much. It will cause a loss of power if the rings are going too.

 

Whats up Aradin.... I was able to check the journals with a good micrometer and they all came to the same specs 48.02mm. The fly in the ointment is that they bore the rods big end to diff sizes. They dont have, nor have I found, a chart that shows what size 1,2,3,4 rod big end is. Therefore, no telling what bearings give what clearances. Since it is a guessing game and I only paid $200 for it, I feel like gambling, lol. I saved the old bearings, numbered then just in case the new bearings are too loose. Gonna slap on some bottom mains and let her

Gonna be a sad day if it is piston slap as no one will buy it then. Sad because I just havnt bonded with it and would rather have a ford escape. Hopefully it being 4wheel disk stock will be the selling point. Oh well, cant win them all.