I am looking for a performance fuel rail for my accord. It's a 97 2.2 f22b1 turbo. I'm running a 255 LPF fuel pump with a aem fuel regulator. Aem shows part # 25-106BK but every where says its discontinued.

 

That's an F22B2 not an F22B1.

Stock fuel system with just an upgraded pump and injectors will do 500whp+ easily. There's no need to replace the rail, regulator, or lines until beyond that point generally. If you must have a fuel rail for whatever reason look for a used AEM unit if they're discontinued new. Stay away from the cheap OBX units as they fail and leak.

You should get a dump tube on that wastegate before you melt that oil feed line, ditch that manual boost controller before it sticks and pops your engine, and replace that adjustable FPR with a real tuning solution if that's what you're currently doing for tuning. Keep the boost as low as possible if you want your automatic transmission to last.

Just some friendly advice from someone who has been doing this for a long time.

 

I was wanting a fuel rail so could put in a pressure gauge because the aem FPR I have now is a direct bolt on and doesn't have a port for a gauge but I found a banjo bolt that has a port for a gauge that connects to my fuel filter. I will be getting an electronic boost controller before i actually drive her (she is still being built), when I took that pic the exhaust wasn't done yet i will put on a dump once I get the exhaust done, I am doing a manual swap as we speak. And I will never use a cheap fuel rail. But thank you for all your input.

 

No problem. Good choice on the manual swap. The automatics don't last long under boost.

 

Well the donor car I was getting for the manual swap fell threw. Do you think the trans would be ok for a little while with only running 7 lbs of boost?

 

Maybe. Maybe not. The automatic transmissions don't really like any extra torque over stock. Many years ago I had a very similar setup to what you currently have. It lasted about 6 months around 220whp at 8psi before it started slipping and throwing codes. It had around 150k miles at the time.

 

Was it a stock motor? I was wondering if I could run 8 psi on a stock motor

 

Yes but it needs to be tuned correctly. If it's not tuned correctly, no amount of boost or extra power is safe and could result in engine damage or failure.

 

About tuning... I keep reading that I will have to switch to obd1 in order for me to get the proper hondata setup is this true? And if so would you happen to know how I go about switching over? I am a mechanic but the electronics of the car is not my specialty.

 

Yes. If you want to run a chipped ECU you will need to switch over to OBD1. Unfortunately since you have a 97 AND it's automatic...it's a little bit more complicated than that. The 96-97 automatic models have the TCU(transmission control unit) integrated into the ECU. The 94-95 automatics had them as two separate units. In order to convert to OBD1 and retain your automatic...you have to create a custom harness so that you can switch to the OBD1 setup with the ECU and TCU as separate units. Here is a write-up on the process with more detailed information.

There are other ways to get the tuning done without running a chipped ECU but I will leave you to do your own research on that. You need something that will retard ignition timing during boost and a way to increase fuel delivery during boost. A chipped ECU with Hondata/Neptune/etc is the best way though. Just don't do ANY boosting until you have solutions for tuning and ignition timing in place. The stock ECU is not calibrated for any positive pressure at all. Even 1-2psi will create a dangerous lean condition and possibly cause catastrophic engine damage.