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Background – This was my first car, have owned it since 2009. The previous owner used it as a db drag car:


Below are some pics leading up to now, it’s definitely been a learning experience.

When I first bought the car









Came with an ls swap



A long time ago I used to autocross it







Chalkboard hood









Looked like this for a while



The engine it came with had a good bit of cylinder leakage so did a stock rebuild on another ls and threw that in there





Bone stock 91 Si I had for a while as a daily










The first turbo build ended up blowing up



After that I put a b20 in it



Now it’s torn apart again and going lsv

Curent build:

• Borg Warner S366 t4
• CSS
• Manley turbo tuff rods
• 81.5mm ~10:1 wiseco pistons
• OEM bearings, water pump, oil pump, tensioner, etc.
• ARP headstuds
• GE headgasket
• Blue gates timing belt
• Gsr head with 85 lb supertech springs and retainers
• Bronze ferrea valve guides
• Ferrea 6000 series valves and steel ferrea keepers
• Delta 272 cams
• AEM cam gears
• Victor x intake manifold
• 70mm skunk 2 throttle body
• Speedfactory 4 bar map sensor
• 2.75" intercooler piping
• Custom turbo manifold & 4" up pipe
• -12 vents on block & valve cover
• FIC 2000cc injectors
• Sumped tank & two 044 pumps with -10 feed and -8 return (ptfe lines)
• (2) 100 micron pre-filters, (1) 6 micron fuelab post-filter and fuelab regulator
• MSD digital 6 box with hvc coil
• Action twin disc clutch
• Hydro ls tranny, mfactory lsd & 5th gear cuff, syncrotech carbon master rebuild kit
• Hush performance cable to hydro conversion with hasport shift linkage & solid bushings
• 4 port mac boost solenoid
• CSF king cooler radiator with a custom swirl pot and overflow/catch can combo
• eBay 44mm wastegate & 60mm bov
• Hondata S300v3 with a flex fuel sensor, oil pressure, fuel pressure, and coolant pressure sensor wired in as analog inputs

Other than the engine the entire car has hardrace hard rubber & energy suspension bushings, an innovative traction bar & TruHart drag coilovers. I'm probably missing some things but that's pretty much it as of now




Shooting for 700hp. I’ll post more pics when I get a chance

 

Sumped the tank











Added a -8 bung for the return



Painted it





Put this craft foam on the top to prevent noise. I put a bolt where the stock feed banjo goes and bent the return tube shut on both sides



Picked the head up last Friday, the machine shop checked it for flatness & it's good just has some knicks in it here and there. Valve guides are reamed out, should be ready to put back together now

Previous owner used this as a db drag car







Ultimately used 40 pounds of dry ice. If there wasn't any dynamat the stock sound deadening would probably come out with 5 or 10 pounds.











This is 40 pounds, when it was said and done it was around 50



Getting ready for paint







Primer & paint



I'm not sure what this blue stuff is, seems like a spray on rhino lining type of thing. It came off slowly if you chipped at it but after my third trip to get dry ice it was good enough for me



Floor & trunk all painted



Carpet and rear interior partially back together



That's it for now

 

Build is looking great so far man. Keep up the good work. I'm building a kswapped 91 sedan....slowly lol

 

Thanks man, it's been a long path but it's getting there slowly

 

Added a banjo to Ľ” barb fitting for the breather



Used an eg evap valve



Tank in



Pumps & pre-filters



Couldn’t find a great spot to easily mount the fuel pumps so ended up making this bracket. It goes right between the tank and driver’s side rear trailing arm





After primer and paint







Mocked up



Starting to run the lines



Used this grommet from the stock fuel lines to run the power wires to the fuel pumps



Area behind the glovebox



Riveted some 16-gauge steel I had to it







Mocked up minus the fuel pump relays



Wiring everything up



Mostly finished



This is how I wired up the pumps, used a delay relay set to 2 seconds for the second fuel pump



Stock ls distributor



Coil removed



Wiring it up for the external coil





Stock coil vs blaster hvc coil



This is how I wired up the MSD, still need to figure out where I want to mount the new coil



Primer & paint for the coolant tube on the back on the block





Bought some Ferrea 6000 valves & dropped the head off at the machine shop for a valve job. While I’m waiting for the head to be finished I’ll be wrapping up the fuel lines and wiring

 

Very tidy installation you have going there. Nice work!

 

 

Love the fuse panel, that looks clean and easy to work on.

 

Nice work so far

 

 

Thank you guys for the kind words. For the fuse panel / distribution block I'm going to cut the glove box so it fits over everything. The hinges on my glovebox were broken so I jb welded them and am currently waiting on a new glove box latch because that was also broken. The fuel pump hanger took a little bit to figure out but was definitely worth it.

I'll be sure to report back once it's running. I had an action 2ms (single disc sprung 6 puck 'stage 6') in my old setup and loved it so figured I'd give the twin disc a shot.

Picked up the head from the machine shop, got a 3 angle valve job & head was decked .004"



Ferrea 6000 valves, bronze valve guides & keepers
Supertech 85 lb springs and steel retainers
Blox lma



Made a bracket to move the proportioning valve to the firewall





Primer



Paint









While making more fuel line ended up snapping this fitting, currently waiting on another one



This is the section I was tightening, it was the adapter from one of the fuel pump outlets to -10 an



Making a mount for the coil



My brother is a welder, he wasn't home so I used his mig. It's pretty obvious I have no idea what I'm doing haha



After Grinder



Primer



Paint



All bolted & wired up. I tried using the top left stud for the ecu but ended up just making a hole where that stud was and using a bolt & nut. You can't see it but the ground for the coil is directly under it which just grounds the coil to the bracket/body



Drilled out the rivets for the valve cover baffling



Used a m6x1 tap so I can use bolts to put it back together. I'll be using red loctite



Used a carbide bit to grind down two bolt holes on the front of the valve cover. I forgot to take a finished picture



Before



During



After



I'll get some better pictures but I ended up using an aluminum 3/4" tube for making the holes

Next on my list is getting this valve cover welded up, finish some wiring and then messing with the engine

 

Small update - worked on the valve cover bungs



Welded on the inside and out



Forgot to get a picture before the jb weld but just used this to make it look a lot better



One down, one to go. Used a file and then 150 grit to clean it up. Still has a little bit to go before it's ready for paint



I bought this for $5, intended on putting this on top of the steering column piece as that's where I want the gauges



After some trimming, it was clear that it was still going to block way too much of the center of the gauge cluster. This is an issue because I'm ultimately going to place the tunerview display here



It also looks like this gauge pod would have a similar issue albeit not as bad



I ended up going this route, notched out the upper corners and then jb welded the gauges to the top steering column piece



For the time being, I'm temporarily mounting the tunerview where the radio was. Here's making the plastic cover for it











I think it turned out alright



Finished cleaning up the wiring to the battery and front of the bay. Still need to make or purchase a battery mount, going with a pc680 style battery



Just received this from tristate



Current wiring situation



Almost finished, I still need to wire up my oil pressure sensor, fuel pressure sensor and flex fuel sensor. Sent my cams out for the delta 272 regrind and ordered stuff to degree the cams, once all of that arrives I can start measuring clearances and putting the head together

 

Nice work here!

 

 

Love the detail!

Also can you explain the dry ice process? Does that just cause the rubber to contract and fall apart?

 

in not so many words, yes. It freezes the material and it can be chipped off. Kinda like the ice cube on bubble gum for carpet trick.

 

Ebay wastegates and BOVs are good at 700hp?


Im still in a market for a BOV and been avoiding those lol

 

No.

 

I figured that.

He has a good build going. It would prolly be smart to just pick up a used one if he's aiming for that much power.

 

Appreciate the kind words guys

The brand wastegates & bov I bought (wyntonm speed) have a pretty good reputation, especially in the v8 world. They're copies of tial designs so I'm not too worried but we'll see how they do

Painted the bay this past weekend



Scuffed everything with a scotch brite pad. I didn't go too crazy trying to make it perfect as someday I'll probably shave the bay, just wanted to clean it up for now





Two coats of rustoleum primer





First two coats of rustoleum gloss white





This is after the third coat but I ended up doing four in total



I ordered some spraymax 2k clear so this weekend I can finish it up

Made a cardboard template for the catch can, it'll go where the windshield washer reservoir was



The side against the car has this notch in order to sit flat



Got some kirkeys, still waiting on the seat covers

 

Awsome build! Dont see too many high hp rexes anymore. You are inspiring me to swap mine. lol

 

Thank you for the kind words

Not much progress lately with Christmas & New Years but here's some pics anyways

Seat covers came in the mail



Installed a gates 170 degree thermostat



My front rims came in the mail, 15x10 with 5.5" backspacing. I need to clean up some of the weld splatter on them before getting them powdercoated





Finally got around to clear coating the bay



Came out pretty good, far from perfect but I'm happy with it





GM flex fuel sensor with 8 an fittings



Here's the ground for the flex fuel sensor and oil pressure gauge



This is my 12v source at ignition on and run for the boost controller and oil pressure gauge



Removing more dynamat





Didn't get a picture after it was removed from the door panel but you get the idea. If I get bored I'll end up doing the passenger's side door as well



Finished welding the an fittings on the valve cover. They were welded on both the outside and inside to make sure they're solid



I originally wanted to use m6x1 10mm bolts to bolt down the baffle but it didn't end up working as well as I anticipated. Ultimately I ended up using 3/16" x 1/4" aluminum rivets, I was a little skeptical at first but it ended up being really solid. Hondabond was used in between the baffle and the valve cover. You can see some of the holes are missing rivets, this is due to those holes being too shallow for the rivets (wasn't enough material to drill the holes any deeper)



Here's the valve cover as of now, I'm going to use some normal jb weld epoxy to fill in the small pits that I currently have. I used the jb weld 'steelstik' which is basically a 2 part putty for everything so far. I've seen mixed things about powder coating over jb weld so I'll see if my powder coater is comfortable with it or not. If not I'll probably just spray paint it

 

Small areas of JB weld should be alright. As long as the powder sticks. I had some spots fixed up on a valve cover once that were JB'd and it powder coated just fine. Worst case scenario, your tech can't guarantee it'll take or it may flake after x amount of time. **shrug**

 

If you spray paint the valve cover, you can use the VHT wrinkle paint and it will hide small imperfections. I have also successfully used a high temp engine paint over the top of black VHT wrinkle paint if you want a color other than red or black. If you do go with a wrinkle paint, spray it and don't touch it for 1-2 days. It takes a long time to fully dry, and you'll think it's dry, but you'll ruin it. Ask me how I know.

 

I've always baked mine to get the texture to really come out. Also +1 on the rest of the post