1994 Honda Accord. F23A, kept it OBD1.

I press the clutch down and turn the key into the on position. I only get the Brake Light and SRS Light.
Could I eliminate the possibily of a bad ECU?

Battery is brand new. Not sure what to do, will be tracing the power and ground wires of the CEL light. From the battery to the ecu.

Any advice or help is very appreciated

 

Ok, I'll bite. Need some background, how did you retain the OBD1 to run the F23A OBD2 engine? Did you use the OBD1 harness? Use the F23A OBD2 harness with an OBD1 to OBD2 adapter? Is it the stock 94 OBD1 ECU? Do tell.

 

Thanks for biting. Kept the OB1 Harness. Alternator is connected with a jumper harness (OB1-OB2), Fuel injectors connected with a jumper harness as well. Used a connector plate for the IAC in order to keep the 2 wire set up. ECU is stock, only took it out once I realized there was no check engine light.

 

Man, that setup make my head hurt just thinking about it. Who or what swap thread put you on to doing it this way? (send the link) If it was a swap thread did you try contacting the OP?

I got that you don't have a functioning cel at key on. you also have no real time ECU data streams or codes because you have the OBD1.
"I press the clutch down and turn the key into the on position. I only get the Brake Light and SRS Light." engine doesn't turn over? or turns over but no start? spark on all plugs?
Were all the F23A engine sensors compatible with the OBD1 harness connectors? everything just plugged in? VTEC? VTEC pres switch? distributor? crank sensors? purge? TPS? MAP? IAT? Temp? Oil pres? knock? o2? fan switch? EGR? (except, alt jumper, injectors and IACV)
Do you have a running fuel pump and pressure at the rail?

If it runs:
If the engine starts does it idle correctly and at the right rpm (700 or so) with no surging?
Get a IR thermometer off 3bay to check head, hose and radiator temps if there is no functioning temp gauge.
Is the alternator putting out say 13.5 to 14 volts when running?
Did you purge all the air out of the cooling system?

 

Took information from several different swap forums, I myself decided to stick with the OBD1 ECU. I press the clutch down, key in ignition and nothing. No fuel pump prime, started doesnt crank. I am hearing a slight clicking noise that seems to be underneath the dashboard when I try cranking it. I don't belive they were all compatible its more about making them compatible.
Almost everything plugs right in. VTEC is not plugged in or wired yet (I believe I don't need this to start the car), Distributor is from the F22B2. There is a wire and connector that seems to be the crank sensor but no where to plug it in on the harness. Purge plugs right in, Tps plugs right in, Map plugs right in, IAT was exteneded like 3-4 inches plugs right in, Oil presure is not plugged in, knock isn't either, O2 isn't either cause I don't have an exhaust on it. Fan switch isn't either (Was thinking of making it a manual fan switch) and EGR is connected.

No pressure at fuel rail.

Car does not start, crank, or prime fuel pump. I appreciate you taking the time to help man.

 

I did delete the injector resistor box if that effects anything. Read on a forum that 94 LX have low impedance injectors mean while the F23A runs high impedance.

 

Dang !!!

"Took information from several different swap forums, I myself decided to stick with the OBD1 ECU. I press the clutch down, key in ignition and nothing. No fuel pump prime, started doesnt crank. I am hearing a slight clicking noise that seems to be underneath the dashboard when I try cranking it. I don't believe they were all compatible its more about making them compatible."

Its so hosed up the ECU is saying screw this Im not gonna energize the master relay to start the fuel pump....

"Almost everything plugs right in. VTEC is not plugged in or wired yet (I believe I don't need this to start the car), Distributor is from the F22B2. There is a wire and connector that seems to be the crank sensor but no where to plug it in on the harness."

That's a fatal error, no crank signal, game over.

"Purge plugs right in, Tps plugs right in, Map plugs right in, IAT was exteneded like 3-4 inches plugs right in, Oil presure is not plugged in, knock isn't either, O2 isn't either cause I don't have an exhaust on it. Fan switch isn't either (Was thinking of making it a manual fan switch) and EGR is connected."

"No pressure at fuel rail. "

Yup, the ECU will fail safe and not put fuel into something that's FUBAR.

Here's what I would do to get it running.
0) Email HA Motor Sports and explain to them what you are trying to do, take their advice. sales@hamotorsports.com the below is a guess.
1) install a full 99-00 accord engine harness OBD2B for man trans (rip your obd1 engine harness out), go to pickapart. ($50 or $100 on 3bay) Do not cut any wires taking it out and grab the sensors so you have spares (crank, IAT, MAP, IACV, temp, fan, knock, oil pres, etc)
2) put the F23A distributor back in.
3) go to https://www.hamotorsports.com/ecu-jumper-harness.html and buy ($85) a OBD2B to OBD1 ECU Jumper Harness
4) once all that is installed jump into a proper swap forum since most will understand that setup.
5) good luck

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...rd-ex-2919809/

contact the guys who posted this thread

 

What do you mean"Its so hosed up the ECU is saying screw this.." ?

The F23A seems to have the plug around the oil pan, meanwhile on the F22B2 the Crankshaft Position Sensor is in the distributor (Which is connected)

What is "FUBAR"?

Thanks for the advice but i'm keeping the OBD1 harness on, many people have made it work that way and so will I.

Could it be that i'm missing a ground? or bad Main Fuel Relay?

 

That link to that forum doesn't really have much information on it.

 

Yes I know that's why I suggested you contact the original poster to find out directly from him what issues he had. His swap retained the obd1 harness and he claimed it runs. I could not find a faq for this swap so you need to reach out to him.

Since the master relay probably isn't turning the fuel pump on there could be any number of things that the ECU is finding a fault with.

If I had to guess issues I would say 1) the ECU doesn't like the injectors, If you know its good then fine. I think I read on one of the threads that it might be possible to install the F22B injectors in the F23A intake. 2) the alternator may be an issue for the ECU if its not wired correctly. 3) are you sure the MAP and TPS are correctly connected and working? 4) I have no idea what the ECU will do if it doesn't see the correct resistances and/or voltages of the sensor you don't have connected.

You need to be able to back probe the connectors and know what signals and voltages to expect. Do you have a DVM and some t-pins to probe the connectors?

Without everything being connected and checked there's no game...

 

FUBAR = F%$#ED UP BEYOND ALL RECOGNITION - its what I think your OBD1 ECU is thinking when it polls the status of its inputs from your half connected engine.

The phrase was coined during world war II when aircraft would return to base shot full of holes and beyond repair. The aircrew would spray paint FUBAR on the sides and park it off the apron to be used for spare parts. Example, Iraqi FUBAR

 

I see what youre saying. It should be possible to use F22B2 injectors on F23A intake with small adjustments. Alternator is wired up, plug n play. Everything was working before I took it apart for the swap, the TPS and MAPS is connected. Yeah I have a DVOM and some pins laying around.

Lmao bro I didn't know that

 

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...gen-5-a-47757/

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...ience-3233428/

 

try posting to this thread

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