Hey everyone. Yesterday I was driving down highway and in a split second the car went from sounding like a zippy Honda to a 85 carbeurated f150. I checked codes misfire on 1 and 3. And p1300 and 1399 which both other misfire stuff. So I ignition coil replaced that and same thing. Then replaced icm and same thing. While trying to get icm out (I didn't see the bracket screws) I removed the black box above the rotor button. Idk the name but I'm sure it has to do with timing. And I also removed the rotor trying to replace whole thing then the only one they had had the wrong plug so I put old one back on. Does anything I did sound like it would mess up timing? Specifically removing and reinstalling black box above rotor shaf and distributor itself. Car still runs as bad as it did no worse or better .

 

Okay so update. Unplugged injectors 1 by 1 as engine was running and on number 1 (farthest to right from front) no change. So cylinder 1 was dead. Replaced spark plug and engine ran fine for about 20 seconds then same thing. If engine isn't under to much load (very very light on throttle) it won't misfire. I'm thinking injector. So far I've done spark plug ignition coil ignition rotor rotor cap and icm. So pretty much everything to do with spark. And I ohm
tested the plug wires they checked out fine. Any ideas?

this also proved to me my timing is fine. I was thinking maybe a short in the wire going to injector but that would seem to act differently. Please note again I was driving and instantly the cylinder died. Maybe a piece of trash clogged it idk never done much with injectors.

 

Since you have mis-fire codes at cylinders 1 and 3... and you have discovered that unplugging the first injector made no change in the engine operation, and you suspect the injector is problematic... remove the fuel rail and MOVE the first and third fuel injectors to the second and fourth positions. Crank the car back up and see if the problem moved with the injectors. If the problem stays in cylinder one... then you need to run a compression test. If compression numbers are good, I would test a known good ECU from a '96-98 Civic with the same engine type as you have.